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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Trad and Sport
Long/Lat: 150.337995, -33.738806
Latin for "situated below something else". This 60m high cliffline is located below the main cliffline of Sublime Point. It is mostly vertical on good grey rock, similar to parts of Piddington. It is very rarely visited.
- Access Issues: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
Descend the usual track to the main wall of Sublime Point (the Middle Cliffs). From the route Choc Chip Chai follow a faint/rough track steeply downwards for about 150m until the track veers right at top of cliffline. Instead of going right, bush bash left (south) above top of cliffline for about 50m to base of crag. The bottom of the crag is steep and vegetated, a bit tricky to walk around.
- Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
History is a bit of a mystery. There are a handful of recorded routes from the mid 60s, and some evidence of activity in the late 70s and 80s. There are three giant carrots with homeade hangers on the lower section of the wall right of Reality Check. Mikl and Giles deny it was them.
The first couple of routes start on a higher terrace, and climb the orange north facing wall left of the prominent arete bordering the left side of the cliff. Approach by leaving the scramble down track just after a 8m cliffete appears on the left of the track. There is a well cut track to the base. If you are thrashing around in spiky trees you are not on the track. It's less than 5 minutes walk from Choc Chip Chai. Sun after 11am.
Neil's Project1 (Closed)
Closed project - stay off. 2nd line of ringbolts left of the major arete. Up slabby corner to start then long wall with crimpy reachy crux. Run it out on fragile jugs to high anchor.
Set by @nmonteith, 2015
Neil's Project2 (Closed)
Closed project - stay off. This prominent arete beckons from below. Start on left side of arete on orange face. Trend right and up face to reach arete about half way up wall. Finish up jugs to high anchor.
Set by @nmonteith, 3rd Apr
The next routes start right of the major arete, and lower down. There is an access track cut which leaves the scramble down just after it goes down a short rocky slot (about 30m below the access to the previous routes)
Start at far left end of cliff. Somehow they turned a 70m cliff into a five pitch route.
FA: B. Ryan, 1967
Start at middle of cliff (?) at chimney set well back on right side of big scoop.
Gormenghast / Titus Groan
Landmark orange off-width corner in centre of crag. Stem baby stem (no thrutching required). Protected by a heady mix of bolts and trad. Bring doubles of every cam between #0.25 Camalot to the biggest you can find, and some slings. Save a green Camalot for the exciting very last move over the rooflet. Double rap rings at top - lowering off is possible. This route was originally climbed using homemade tubes in the heady days of the 70s. The direct finish over the rooflet was done in 2014.
FA: Greg Child,Chris Piesker, 1976
FFA: @nmonteith, 2014
Thin face on the wall right of Gormenghast. Finish up right arete to lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2014
|?||Neil's Project1 (Closed)||720m,|
|Neil's Project2 (Closed)||824m,|