Sublime Point Rock climbing146 routes in crag
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Sublime Point is a large 200m high west facing two tiered cliff perched on the end of a finger of rock south of 'Leura'. Most people visit to climb the popular easy multi-pitch 'Sweet Dreams' (14), but there is plenty of other interesting routes in the area, from old school vegetated girdles to bolted single pitch sport routes. Many of the older routes haven't had a great deal of recent traffic so take care - and bring the pruning shears. It's easy to polish off a few single pitch routes on the walk-in to doing 'Sweet Dreams' or any of the other multi-pitch routes. There are even some fifty year old aid routes begging for a free ascent.
If adventure climbing isn't your thing then consider Bentrovarto Wall, a very impressive 90m high slightly overhung orange face that contains several sustained routes up to three pitches long. The recent rush of new sport routes on Bentrovarto Wall, and further right in the 'Thumbs Up' area and beyond, have made the right side of the 'Sublime Point' 'Main Area' a good quality walk-in, walk-out crag. Unless you're a latte sipping softy, the walk out is not that bad when you're only carrying a sport rack!
Useful Info: All 'Sublime Point' crags are in a National Park - DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED. Please do not further endanger climbing access and damage climbers' relationships with the land managers - don't bring your dog to these crags.
If it's hot and you're chasing shade, the 'Main Area' has shade until about noon, the 'Cool Wall' has shade pretty much all day, and last you can head to the 'East Face' which is shady from about noon. If it's cold and you want to be in the sun, hit the 'East Face' early and the 'Main Area' in the afternoon.© (Stu)
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
This area is 13km closer to Sydney than the more popular Bluies crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. 'Access' for each sub-area is described on the respective pages (links below).© (Stu)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Sublime Point was opened up to climbing by the Rhum Du Climbing Group in 1958 with climbs created at irregular intervals for a couple of years. The cliff then lay dormant, forgotten and wasted for several years, until a burst of energy by the S.R.C. between '62 & '65. (J.E. Rockclimbs in the Blue Mountains, '67.)© (Stu)
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