East Face All sport climbing3 routes in crag
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Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.© (nmonteith)
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (left side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss of the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an obvious rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!© (nmonteith)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 65m+ rope & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.
Start: The abseil into the route starts at rap chain on northern rocky outcrop. Referring to topo will help with working out how to make it down! You will need at minimum single 60m rope to make it down. First rap is aprox 30m down small cliff, vegetated slope then slabby arete to double rings on small ledge. Next rap is 15m down to double rap rings in slot and comfortable ledge. Final rap is 25m straight down corner, swingig slightly right to HANGING belay on double rings right on lip of giant roof on right side of subtle arete. You may want to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the overhung wall.
20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse hard left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Bring prussics in case you fall off! 8 bolts.
63m (22) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. Aiding on the last couple of bolts on this pitch might make it more pleasant. This pitch may be 60m long. Need confirmation! 22 bolts.
14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face to top ledge. 3 bolts.
FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Jason Lammers, 2011
Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. Rap access - rap 30m from chains to hanging belay on tiny ledge. Rap 15m down into slot (kick yourself in with a swing to make it). Final rap is down and right (facing out from the cliff). You will need to clip several bolts on the way down as directionals. You are aiming for a small ledge at the lowest point of the orange wall and right in the middle. Refer to topo. An amusing optional extra first pitch is to do the traverse pitch of 'Subliminal' to last bolt, then lower down to belay ledge a few meters below.
30m (21) Traverse horizontally right for 5m then up wall to next small ledge. Right again for a metre then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. 10 bolts.
15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 7 bolts.
20m (20) 'Arete' for 15m then left and up final short headwall. 'Grovel' up dirty finish to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.
15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of vegetated chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like wet pants) for 6m to arrive were you started at rap chains.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2011
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