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Description

Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.

Access issues inherited from East Faces

There are private houses above some of these walls - keep a very low profile. You are walking on public land - but it's best not to annoy the aristocracy and their ten million $ views.

Approach

From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (north-east side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss off the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksia trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an large rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 *** Subliminated Sport 60m, 20

Wow! Six bolt direct start to the epic 2nd pitch arete of Subliminal. This can only be climbed as one pitch. Access by fixing 70m of rope from the anchors above Subliminal and rapping straight down the arete to double bolt hanging belay at base of of arete on left side. Clip into bolts on way down to stay connected to the wall. 20 quickdraws minimum. Crux move is reachy if you're under 170cm.

2
23 *** Subliminal Sport 97m, 3, 33

It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 65m+ rope & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

Start: The abseil into the route starts at rap chain on northern rocky outcrop. Referring to topo will help with working out how to make it down! You will need at minimum single 60m rope to make it down. First rap is aprox 30m down small cliff, vegetated slope then slabby arete to double rings on small ledge. Next rap is 15m down to double rap rings in slot and comfortable ledge. Final rap is 25m straight down corner, swinging slightly right to HANGING belay on double rings right on lip of giant roof on right side of subtle arete (refer to topo). You may want to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the overhung wall.

  1. 20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse hard left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Bring prussics in case you fall off! 8 bolts.

  2. 63m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. Aiding on the last couple of bolts on this pitch might make it more pleasant. This pitch may be 60m long. Need confirmation! 22 bolts.

  3. 14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face to top ledge. 3 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Jason Lammers, 2011

3
26 *** Sabbatical Sport 80m, 3, 20

A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 Quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m Pitch (rope management crucial! 29 Quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners).

Access as for Castaway.

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the LEFT path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes RIGHT) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal.

Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step RIGHT and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 19 Bolts.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back LEFT from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Up Pitch 3 as for Subliminal (up easy, juggy face on average rock to top-out belay). 4 Bolts.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2016

FA: Paul Thomson & Glen Thomson, 2016

4
26 *** Sojourn Sport 80m, 3, 18

A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners.

P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the RIGHT path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes LEFT) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave.

P2 - 25m (22) - Step back LEFT from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts.

P3 - 15m (14) - Up Pitch 3 as for Subliminal (up easy, juggy face on average rock to top-out belay). 4 Bolts.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2015

FA: Paul Thomson, 2016

5
25 ** Swansong Sport 25m, 10

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway Belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

6
21 ** Castaway Sport 65m, 4

Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. Rap access - rap 30m from chains to hanging belay on tiny ledge. Rap 15m down into slot (kick yourself in with a swing to make it). Final rap is down and right (facing out from the cliff). You will need to clip several bolts on the way down as directionals. You are aiming for a small ledge at the lowest point of the orange wall and right in the middle. Refer to topo. An amusing optional extra first pitch is to do the traverse pitch of 'Subliminal' to last bolt, then lower down to belay ledge a few meters below.

  1. 30m (21) Traverse horizontally right for 5m then up wall to next small ledge. Right again for a metre then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. 10 bolts.

  2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 7 bolts.

  3. 20m (20) 'Arete' for 15m then left and up final short headwall. 'Grovel' up dirty finish to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

  4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of vegetated chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like wet pants) for 6m to arrive were you started at rap chains.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2011

7
20 ** Unconscious Corner Sport 20m, 10

Easier direct start to 'Castaway'. Gorgeous orange rock.

Set by Jason Lammers

FA: Gene, 2016

Activity

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