East Face All sport climbing5 routes in crag
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Large overhung orange wall facing Kings Tableland with easy 5 minute access. All routes require rapping into hanging belays and then climbing out. The super exposed position high above the jungle hundreds of metres below make for a very memorable afternoon out! Shade after midday and nice cool breezes.© (nmonteith)
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
From 'Sublime Point' car-park walk along fence of house 142 'Sublime Point' Road (left side of carpark) until it ends after 50m at wooden wall. Walk along wall for 15m (keep quiet so as not to piss of the people in the house above) then head straight downhill on faint track. This track enters the bush at a couple of gnarled banksai trees. Follow track steeply downhill for 80m on faint ridge past a few large tree stumps with a small right turn until it ends at top of small cliffline. Turn right and head down mossy ferny steep gully then go left under small cliffline. 20m along under this cliff turn right and go straight downhill aiming for the edge of the cliff just below. There are two rocky points - the Northern (left one facing out) is the one to find. This has an obvious rap chain on the top and a yellow fixed rope tied around a tree. The other ledge 15m further south (above Subliminal) only has two rings at the top. It's only 5 minutes from the car to the top of the cliff!© (nmonteith)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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