- Height: 92m
- Bolts: 33
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 41
It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.
Start: The abseil into the route starts at rap chain on northern rocky outcrop. Referring to topo will help with working out how to make it down! You will need at minimum single 60m rope to make it down. First rap is aprox 30m down small cliff, vegetated slope then slabby arete to double rings on small ledge. Next rap is 15m down to double rap rings in slot and comfortable ledge. Final rap is 25m straight down corner, swinging slightly right to HANGING belay on double rings right on lip of giant roof on right side of subtle arete (refer to topo). You may want to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the overhung wall.
20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Bring prussics in case you fall off! 8 bolts.
58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (consider a few long runners).
14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face to top ledge. 3 bolts.
If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the hard 26s.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Jason Lammers, 16 Jan 2011
Located in Subliminal Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|23||Community registered grade|
|22 **||★★ ACA Route Register|
|20, 23, 14||★★★Neil Monteith|
Overall quality score: 90%
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