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Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. Rap access - rap 30m from chains to hanging belay on tiny ledge. Rap 15m down into slot (kick yourself in with a swing to make it). Final rap is down and right (facing out from the cliff). You will need to clip several bolts on the way down as directionals. You are aiming for a small ledge at the lowest point of the orange wall and right in the middle. Refer to topo. An amusing optional extra first pitch is to do the traverse pitch of 'Subliminal' to last bolt, then lower down to belay ledge a few meters below.

  1. 30m (21) Traverse horizontally right for 5m then up wall to next small ledge. Right again for a metre then straight up the amazing orange wall above. At about 20m traverse right to arete and final sandy corner. Belay in slot between main wall and balancing boulder. 10 bolts.

  2. 15m (20) Walk across slot to right side of sandy cave. Up right side of arete for 5m then hand traverse left to other side of arete and up steep orange wall to small ledge belay on arete. Use long runners on the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 7 bolts.

  3. 20m (20) 'Arete' for 15m then left and up final short headwall. 'Grovel' up dirty finish to belay on big vegetated ledge. 8 bolts.

  4. 15m (5) To exit stay roped up and scramble left then right up vegetated ramp to base of vegetated chimney. Hand over hand up fixed rope (or chimney if you like wet pants) for 6m to arrive were you started at rap chains.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2011

Location:  

Located in East Face approx:
Long/Lat: 150.340192,-33.736187

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 * * ACA Route Register
21 * Neil Monteith

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 56%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

amazing fun weird epic

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