West Face Rock climbing124 routes in crag
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The west face contains the majority of popular climbing at Sublime Point, and is accessed by a short but exciting steep descent down a series of rock ledges, fixed ropes and tree roots.
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
From the Sublime Point carpark walk down tourist track for 100m or so (past a small hut) until you reach the metal bridge. 2m before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff (past yellow sign) for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down fixed rope corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these 2nd set of ropes on the left is Shady Lady wall. For the 'Main Area' continue down steep path and rock steps until you reach the major cliffline. Turn right here and walk along the cliff base for a few 20metres to find the sport route Choc Chip Chai and the first sector. A good track follows the base of this cliff past the other sectors. To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.
To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill to small cliffline, get past it somehow then up again until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).
Where to stay
You cannot camp anywhere near the climbing, however if you have a campervan you could just park in the carpark. Be warned - after midnight the carpark gets a lot of yobbos doing drivebys!
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
Originally a climbing area of the Rhum Du, a splinter group of the Sydney Rockies in the late 50's. Later re-discovered and further developed by the S.R.C. proper in the early 60's. Development of the cliff led to the production of the first Australian climbing guide, 'The Rock-Climbs of N.S.W.' by Bryden Allen and the SRC.
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