Sunny Side All sport climbing19 routes in crag
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The main wall you see as you walk in also one of the most popular walls at bell, perfect for a sunny winter day or summer morning.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic!
A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there.
It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.
Set by Paul Thomson, 2014
Set by Paul Thomson, 2014
FA: Paul Thomson, 2014
Set by Paul Thomson, 23rd Oct
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