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Summary

The main wall you see as you walk in also one of the most popular walls at bell, perfect for a sunny winter day or summer morning.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 *** Seamstress Sport 22m

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. Clearly be seen from shady side. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning corner

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

2
26 ** Seamstress Direct Sport 20m

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress.

FA:

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011

3
23 * An Angel Walks By Sport 23m, 13

Lots of fun with slopers, pumpers and a couple of moves over the roof

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

4

The first half of this line provides a popular jug haul through scoops to the anchor at the halfway ledge.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

5

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

6
24 * Troc de l’Ile Sport 15m

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

7

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

8
25 ** The Dreaming Void Sport 29m, 12

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

9
27 ** Parallax error Sport 30m, 12

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up The Dreaming Void to top. Long and fun.

10
24 A Rover in Time Sport 15m

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

11
26 ** A Rover in Time Extension Sport 30m, 16

looks very thin just above the Rover in Time anchor

12
30 *** House of Suns Sport 25m, 11

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

13

Ultra classic

14

Link Reality Dysfunction into La Realite ...

15
28 ** La Realite N’Existe Pas Sport 22m, 10

Start up Event Horizon then head L

16
27 *** Event Horizon Sport 22m

Ultra classic. Was mistakenly called Reality Dysfunction for a couple of years until the FAs actually told anyone the route names. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split but good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

17
24 * Quel Bordel Sport 20m, 11

Interesting steep climbing with a bit of crap rock at the bottom. Shares the same first two bolts with Year of the sun bear.

FFA: 2013

18
25 Year of the Sun Bear Sport 20m, 10

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

19
20 * Accretion Sport 45m, 15

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Adventurous, long and in a great position.

Start up first 2 bolts as of Year of the Sun Bear to gain access ledge, then traverse to the start of the route at far right end of the ledge. It's easiest to take off each draw after you've clipped past it, pull up the rope, then walk over to start of climb, drop the rope and have your belayer belay from the gully below the ledge.

Up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to below massive roof. Right around this, and past another bolt to anchors.

To clean, rethread off anchors as for a normal lower off. Have your belayer lower you to a few bolts below the roof (watch rope length!!!) and pull rope and rethread off a single bolt, then continue lowering. If you keep your belayers end through the draws below when pulling the rope, it will make it easier to clean. Alternatively, climb with 2 ropes.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

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