A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Sunny Side 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.297011, -33.535119

Unique Features And Strengths:

The main wall you see as you walk in also one of the most popular walls at bell, perfect for a sunny winter day or summer morning.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Seamstress

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. Clearly be seen from shady side. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning corner

FA: Martin Pircher, 2010

22Sport 22m
2 ** Seamstress Direct

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress.

FA:

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011

26Sport 20m
3 * An Angel Walks By

Lots of fun with slopers, pumpers and a couple of moves over the roof

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23Sport 23m, 13
4 ** Searching for the Light

The first half of this line provides a popular jug haul through scoops to the anchor at the halfway ledge.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

23Sport 15m
5 * Searching for the Light Extension

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2011

26Sport 30m
6 * Troc de l’Ile

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

24Sport 15m
7 When the Spirits are Calling

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2012

21Sport
8 ** The Dreaming Void

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

25Sport 29m, 12
9 ** Parallax error

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up The Dreaming Void to top. Long and fun.

27Sport 30m, 12
10 A Rover in Time

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24Sport 15m
11 ** A Rover in Time Extension

looks very thin just above the Rover in Time anchor

26Sport 30m, 16
12 *** House of Suns

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

30Sport 25m, 11
13 *** The Reality Dysfunction / The Awesome 25

Ultra classic

25Sport 22m
14 *** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup

Link Reality Dysfunction into La Realite ...

26Sport 30m, 11
15 ** La Realite N’Existe Pas

Start up Event Horizon then head L

28Sport 22m, 10
16 *** Event Horizon

Ultra classic. Was mistakenly called Reality Dysfunction for a couple of years until the FAs actually told anyone the route names. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split but good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

27Sport 22m
17 * Quel Bordel

Interesting steep climbing with a bit of crap rock at the bottom. Shares the same first two bolts with Year of the sun bear.

FFA: 2013

24Sport 20m, 11
18 Year of the Sun Bear

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

25Sport 20m, 10
19 * Accretion

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic!

A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there.

It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 23rd Oct

20Sport 35m, 15

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
20 * Accretion Sport 35m, 15
21 When the Spirits are Calling Sport
22 *** Seamstress Sport 22m
23 * An Angel Walks By Sport 23m, 13
** Searching for the Light Sport 15m
24 A Rover in Time Sport 15m
* Quel Bordel Sport 20m, 11
* Troc de l’Ile Sport 15m
25 ** The Dreaming Void Sport 29m, 12
*** The Reality Dysfunction Sport 22m
Year of the Sun Bear Sport 20m, 10
26 ** A Rover in Time Extension Sport 30m, 16
*** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup Sport 30m, 11
** Seamstress Direct Sport 20m
* Searching for the Light Extension Sport 30m
27 *** Event Horizon Sport 22m
** Parallax error Sport 30m, 12
28 ** La Realite N’Existe Pas Sport 22m, 10
30 *** House of Suns Sport 25m, 11