Topo #8744 - Sunny Side Main Wall

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 *** Seamstress

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. Clearly be seen from shady side. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning corner

22 Sport 22m Unlink route
4 ** Seamstress Direct

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress. Has been upgraded to 27 on 8a.nu, you be the judge..

26 Sport 20m Unlink route
5 * An Angel Walks By

Lots of fun with slopers, pumpers and a couple of moves over the roof

23 Sport 23m, 13 Unlink route
6 ** Searching for the Light

The first half of this line provides a popular jug haul through scoops to the anchor at the halfway ledge.

23 Sport 15m Unlink route
7 * Searching for the Light Extension

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

26 Sport 30m Unlink route
8 * Troc de l’Ile

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

24 Sport 15m Unlink route
9 When the Spirits are Calling

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

21 Sport 15m Unlink route
10 ** The Dreaming Void

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

25 Sport 29m, 12 Unlink route
11 ** Parallax error

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up The Dreaming Void to top. Long and fun.

27 Sport 30m, 12 Unlink route
12 A Rover in Time

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24 Sport 15m Unlink route
13 ** A Rover in Time Extension

looks very thin just above the Rover in Time anchor

26 Sport 30m, 16 Unlink route
14 *** House of Suns

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

30 Sport 25m, 11 Unlink route
15 *** The Reality Dysfunction

Ultra classic

25 Sport 22m Unlink route
16 *** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup

Link Reality Dysfunction into La Realite ...

26 Sport 30m, 11 Unlink route
17 ** La Realite N’Existe Pas

Start up Event Horizon then head L

28 Sport 22m, 10 Unlink route
18 *** Event Horizon

Ultra classic. Was mistakenly called Reality Dysfunction for a couple of years until the FAs actually told anyone the route names. Steep pumper with many quality boulder problems split but good rest jugs. A very unique crux.

27 Sport 22m Unlink route
19 * Quel Bordel

Interesting steep climbing with a bit of crap rock at the bottom. Shares the same first two bolts with Year of the sun bear.

24 Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
20 Year of the Sun Bear

Awkward corner to ledge. Watch for ledgefalls for the first few bolts off the ledge.

25 Sport 20m, 10 Unlink route
21 * Accretion

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic! A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there. It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

20 Sport 35m, 15 Unlink route

Topo #8745 - Sunny Side Close Up

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Route Grade Popularity Style
3 *** Seamstress

The first climb on the sunnside and one of the best. Clearly be seen from shady side. Popular with lots of bolts. Starts up the obvious right leaning corner

22 Sport 22m Unlink route
4 ** Seamstress Direct

Boulder up the steep seam on gastons and very poor feet. Direct start to the 22 Seamstress. Has been upgraded to 27 on 8a.nu, you be the judge..

26 Sport 20m Unlink route
5 * An Angel Walks By

Lots of fun with slopers, pumpers and a couple of moves over the roof

23 Sport 23m, 13 Unlink route
6 ** Searching for the Light

The first half of this line provides a popular jug haul through scoops to the anchor at the halfway ledge.

23 Sport 15m Unlink route
8 * Troc de l’Ile

Climbs to the half-way ledge via some huge pockets and a couple of not so huge crimps. Can be used as an alternative start to Searching for the Light Extension

24 Sport 15m Unlink route
9 When the Spirits are Calling

Much more difficult than it looks, with unexpected and unusual moves. The rock is a bit crunchy.

21 Sport 15m Unlink route
10 ** The Dreaming Void

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof.

25 Sport 29m, 12 Unlink route
11 ** Parallax error

Stick clip first bolt. Boulder move then big moves, cave is in, more big moves. Crux through bulg onto face moves. Half way break and continue left up The Dreaming Void to top. Long and fun.

27 Sport 30m, 12 Unlink route
12 A Rover in Time

Trends L, with a few bits of blocky boomy rock but apparently it's all solid ... now.

24 Sport 15m Unlink route
14 *** House of Suns

An easy start provides access to the magnificent second half. Move slightly left at the last bolt before finishing directly up to the anchors. The upper half looks amazing.

30 Sport 25m, 11 Unlink route

Topo #8073 - Accretion

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Route Grade Popularity Style
21 * Accretion

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic! A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there. It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

20 Sport 35m, 15 Unlink route

Topo #8074 - Accretion 2

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Route Grade Popularity Style
21 * Accretion

The blunt "arete" system at the far right hand end of Sunny Side Main Wall. Amazingly overhanging and exposed, but consisting of easy, well protected climbing. Now a Consumer Classic! A grotty start up 5 fixed rungs guards this gem. Easily up rungs (clip a draw to the rungs if concerned), then up past 2 bolts to original belay ledge (optional belay stance here). Continue up and left on obvious jugs past 4 bolts to below roof. Up and vaguely right following line of least resistance past 3 more bolts, then back left onto good orange rock and up to anchor below massive roof. A 60m rope MIGHT just reach on stretch (tie a knot in the end), or if not, lower to belay ledge and re-thread from there. It is possible to continue up past the roof to anchors at the clifftop via 3 more bolts (making a giant 45m pitch). The last 10m or so is average climbing but in a great position. To escape, you need to re-thread on lower-off back under the roof, or climb on 2 ropes and rap.

20 Sport 35m, 15 Unlink route

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