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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Limbo Unknown 12m
2
19 Bug Powder Direct Unknown 18m
3
23 Bug Powder Unknown 18m
4
22 Amal Nitrate Unknown 8m
5
Project 2 Unknown

To left of Sandminer

6
19 Sand Miner Unknown 15m

Dangerous Mental Route, needs another bolt, if you value your life stay off it. Using second rope may well save your life due to numerous rock rubbing, block falling, mind shattering possibilities. Up sandy ramp to horrible loose death block; thrutch across shale ledge, clip blind bolt in crumbly sorta-stone, then make final mantle to finish. Absolute classic.

FA: Zorba Parer & Tony Williams

7
Project Unknown 18m

retrobolted project on arete

8
21 Keanu Roovs Unknown 15m
9
22 * Dr. Benway Unknown 15m
10
19 Blackall Bandits Unknown 15m

Hardish start (without use of tree). Tricky mantle at half height.

FA: Tony Williams

11
15 White Lily Unknown 15m
12
22 * Deep Space Espionage Unknown 15m
13
21 * BMATC Unknown 15m

7 rings to anchors

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

14
23 ** Language is a Virus Unknown 15m
15
20 ** The William Tell Thing Unknown 15m
16
22 ** Blowfish Unknown 15m
17
Project? Unknown

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