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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!



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Grade Route
17 Limbo Unknown 12m
19 Bug Powder Direct Unknown 18m
23 Bug Powder Unknown 18m
22 * Amal Nitrate Unknown 8m
Project 2 Unknown

To left of Sandminer

19 Sand Miner Unknown 15m

Dangerous Mental Route, needs another bolt, if you value your life stay off it. Using second rope may well save your life due to numerous rock rubbing, block falling, mind shattering possibilities. Up sandy ramp to horrible loose death block; thrutch across shale ledge, clip blind bolt in crumbly sorta-stone, then make final mantle to finish. Absolute classic.

FA: Zorba Parer & Tony Williams

Project Unknown 18m

retrobolted project on arete

21 ** Keanu Roovs Unknown 15m
22 * Dr. Benway Unknown 15m
19 * Blackall Bandits Unknown 15m

Hardish start (without use of tree). Tricky mantle at half height.

FA: Tony Williams

15 White Lily Unknown 15m
22 * Deep Space Espionage Unknown 15m
21 ** BMATC Unknown 15m

7 rings to anchors

FA: Tony Williams, 2004

23 ** Language is a Virus Unknown 15m
20 ** The William Tell Thing Unknown 15m
22 ** Blowfish Unknown 15m
Project? Unknown


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