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A peculiar area, so named because of the abandoned dam.
Useful Info: This is a great free swimming hole - where the water is cold and deep. It is a popular option in summer when the heat gets too much (or if you want to cool off after climbing at a nearby crag). TOILETS - due to the popularity of this Crag and the increasing toilet waste that is around the climbing areas, please use the toilet area down at the end of 'Shady Alley'. From the large cave, head out between the cliffs. Please bury and cover your leftovers.© (boulderman)
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
Turn off is exactly 6.2km past the Darling Causeway (just before a bridge over the railway). Drive alongside the railway, taking the track to the left about 400m along. Follow the track paralleling the train tracks (fine for standard cars provided you use caution). Follow along for about one km until the track veers left away from the tracks. A few hundred metres down you find a large clearing, where most people park. The Crag is down the track to the right, down a steep track. It’s a relatively easy walk down. This is accessible by 4WD, but only recommended for experienced drivers and in a raised vehicle.© (boulderman)
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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