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Description

Maybe it used to be mossy but it's pretty nice now with lots of traffic.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 ** Matador Sport 15m

Carrots on traverse, ring bolts on vertical section. Tops out to 2 bolt belay.

Rebolted 6-01-2007

2
19 B1 Sport 15m

SSGICs (Stainless Steel Glue-in Carrots), with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 2 bolt belay).

FA: A Brown, M Pearce, 2000

3
20 Truancy Officer Sport 20m

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

4

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: C Hale, 2000

5
19 Shadow the Goat Sport 20m

Stainless FHs and one RB to lower offs or top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, E Fairleigh, 2000

6
14 Fucary Rug Sport 15m

Carrots, some with fixed hanger, to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: M Pearce, A Brown, 2000

7
12 Jug City Sport 15m

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000

8
14 unknown Sport 12m

Dirty route R of 'Jug City'

FA: Unknown, 2006

9
10 Hesitation Sport 15m

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000