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Description

Directly opposite Mossy Wall. A nice overhanging wall with awesome scoops similar but much better than Ladder of Gloom at Berowra

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Ted Turd-Tossa Sport 6m

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall.

Carrots to lower off.

FA: E Garnett, 2000

2
19 Little Diego Sport 12m

Carrots to 2 bolt belay.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

3

FA: J Boyton, 2000

4
22 Vasco Pyjama Sport 16m

Sandbagged at 18 in Pircher/Carter guide (a hold has broken since FA - it's more like 22).

Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

5
20 * Smorgasbord Sport 12m

Rising linkup through all interesting features on wall.

FA: Brad Thomas, 2004

6
21 * Friendly Fire Sport 12m, 7

Thin face climbing on good rock with reachy crux. Carrot bolt at first, then fixed hangers all the way. Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs. Double ring lower off.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

7
18 * Stormin Normin Sport 12m

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

FA: J Smoothy, F Lumsden, 2000

8

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

9
18 * A Tale of Two Cities Sport 12m, 7

Information according to Blue Mountains Climbing 2007 Edition: 12 Metres: Awkward start then cruisy. First Ascentionists: F Lumsden & J Smoothy 1993

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy

10
23 * School's Out Sport 12m

Climbs the face between the scoops of the adjacent routes. At the 5th ring move right to join 'Lonely Thursday'.

Start: 1m right of 'A Tale of Two Cities'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2010

11
19 * Lonely Thursday Sport 12m

Rings to double ring lower off.

(Originally carrots - rebolted 2-12-2006).

FA: C Hale, 2000

12
19 Sloper for Saddam Sport 15m

Carrot/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark, 2000

13

Start off to the right of the 1st carrot.

14
20 Aonang Aonang Sport 12m

Carrots/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark, J Kurko, 2000

15
22 * Lay la Kay Sport 12m

Stainless carrots, first with FH, to double ring lower off.

FA: J Kurko, J Clark, 2000

16

Start on top of boulder as for War and Peace then go straight up. Bouldery moves on steep rock.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2009