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Directly opposite Mossy Wall. A nice overhanging wall with awesome scoops similar but much better than Ladder of Gloom at Berowra

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


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Grade Route

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall.

Carrots to lower off.

FA: E Garnett, 2000

Carrots to 2 bolt belay.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

FA: J Boyton, 2000

Sandbagged at 18 in Pircher/Carter guide (a hold has broken since FA - it's more like 22).

Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy, 2000

Rising linkup through all interesting features on wall.

FA: Brad Thomas, 2004

Thin face climbing on good rock with reachy crux. Carrot bolt at first, then fixed hangers all the way. Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs. Double ring lower off.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

FA: J Smoothy & F Lumsden, 2000

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy, 2000

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy

Climbs the face between the scoops of the adjacent routes. At the 5th ring move right to join 'Lonely Thursday'.

Start: 1m right of 'A Tale of Two Cities'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2010

Rings to double ring lower off.

FA: C Hale, 2000

Avoid the crux of Sloper Of Saddam by traversing in from the left beginning at the start of Lonely Thursday.

Start off to the right of the 1st bolt.

FA: J Clark, 2000

Carrots/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark & J Kurko, 2000

Stainless carrots, first with FH, to double ring lower off.

FA: J Kurko & J Clark, 2000

Start as for Lay La Kay then trend right into Dictator in a Deerstalker. Bouldery start up and out of the roof on crimps. Then traverse right into Dictators in a Deerstalker avoiding the boulder.

Start on top of boulder as for War and Peace then go straight up. Bouldery moves on steep rock.

FA: Niall Doherty, 19 Sep 2009


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