Gulf War Wall All sport climbing13 routes in cliff
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The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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Start as for Dictator in a Deerstalker and head right.
FA: G Bradbury, 2000
A link up. Fun, bouldery and a step up from War and Peace if you are walking up that easily. Start as for WMD past a few bolts them go L and up into WaP joining it after the starting moves. Follow it to the top.
FFA: Matt Brooks, 2011
FA: Matt Brooks, 2011
Hard bouldery climbing at the top may be harder no as its lost the edges on the crux holds which made it alot easier. Start as for Voice of America. Up the lower wall past a RB to the break. Step L 2m and make a big past an undercling to another bouldery move L to the start of the scoopy holds heading up the highest part of the wall. Watch the wall behind you.
FA: G Bradbury, 2000
Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad
FFA: Matt Brooks
Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave on shiny new RBs to anchors. Bold cruxy climbing in an awesome location. Back Jump to clean (beware the wall behind you). Rebolted 2008 Rasmet 101. Currently graded 23 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.
FA: J Smoothy, 2000
FA: G Bradbury & J Smoothy, 2000
Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.
Start: As for Siesta
FA: Matt Brooks, 2000
All ring bolts.
FA: David James
Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.
FA: T Bretherton & G Bradbury, 2000
RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!
FA: J Boyton, 2000