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The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Start on top of boulder as for Dictator in a Deerstalker but step immediately right, then up.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

A link up. Fun, bouldery and a step up from War and Peace if you are walking up that easily. Start as for WMD past a few bolts them go L and up into WaP joining it after the starting moves. Follow it to the top.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2011

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

Red RB's following hueco system, leaving top hueco on it's RH side to clip before joining last RB of Voice of America then DRB belay. Best backjump to clean. Start: Just right of WMD.

FA: Pete Webster, Sep 2011

Hard bouldery climbing at the top may be harder no as its lost the edges on the crux holds which made it alot easier. Start as for Voice of America. Up the lower wall past a RB to the break. Step L 2m and make a big past an undercling to another bouldery move L to the start of the scoopy holds heading up the highest part of the wall. Watch the wall behind you.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

FFA: Matt Brooks

Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave on shiny new RBs to anchors. Bold cruxy climbing in an awesome location. Back Jump to clean (beware the wall behind you). Rebolted 2008 Ramset 101.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

FA: G Bradbury & J Smoothy, 2000

Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.

Start: As for Siesta

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

The first line of ring bolts right of the Voice of America shared start.

FA: David James

Start at Siesta (first two clips) then traverse break right to third, then up over lip as for Sister Rosa to anchors. Great sustained climbing at the grade.

FFA: Ed Rutherford, 28 Dec 2011

FA: Ed Rutherford, 28 Dec 2011

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

FA: T Bretherton & G Bradbury, 2000

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

FA: J Boyton, 2000


Check out what is happening in Gulf War Wall.