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Description

The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 ** War and Peace Sport 20m

Start as for Dictator in a Deerstalker and head right.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

2
27 ** Warhorse Sport 15m, 9

A link up. Fun, bouldery and a step up from War and Peace if you are walking up that easily. Start as for WMD past a few bolts them go L and up into WaP joining it after the starting moves. Follow it to the top.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2011

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

3
28 ** WMD Sport 15m, 8

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

4
24 ** Cannon Fodder Sport 5

Red RB's following hueco system, leaving top hueco on it's RH side to clip before joining last RB of Voice of America then DRB belay. Best backjump to clean. Start: Just right of WMD.

FA: Pete Webster, 2011

5
26 * Radio Baghdad Sport 20m

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

6
26 ** Baghdad Burning Sport 15m

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

FFA: Matt Brooks

7
24 ** Voice of America Sport 20m, 6

Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave on shiny new RBs to anchors. Bold cruxy climbing in an awesome location. Back Jump to clean (beware the wall behind you). Rebolted 2008 Rasmet 101. Currently graded 23 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

8
24 ** Nobody's War Sport 20m

FA: G Bradbury, J Smoothy, 2000

9
23 * Guerilla Warfare Sport 18m, 6

Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.

Start: As for Siesta

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

10
23 ** Siesta Sport 15m

All ring bolts.

FA: David James

11
22 Pull ya finger out! Sport 15m, 9

Start at Siesta (first two clips) then traverse break to third, then up over lip as for Sister Rosa to anchors. Great sustained climbing at the grade.

FFA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

12
22 ** Sister Rosa Sport 18m, 8

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

FA: T Bretherton, G Bradbury, 2000

13
12 Suicidal Tendencies Sport 18m, 4

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

FA: J Boyton, 2000