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Description:

The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** War and Peace

Start as for Dictator in a Deerstalker and head right.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

25
Sport 20m
2 ** WMD

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

28
Sport 15m , 8
3 ** Cannon Fodder

Red RB's following hueco system, leaving top hueco on it's RH side to clip before joining last RB of Voice of America then DRB belay. Best backjump to clean. Start: Just right of WMD.

FA: Pete Webster, 2011

24
Sport 5
4 * Radio Baghdad

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

26
Sport 20m
5 ** Baghdad Burning

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

FFA: Matt Brooks,

26
Sport 15m
6 * Voice of America

Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave. Rebolted 2008 Rasmet 101.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

24
Sport 20m , 6
7 ** Nobody's War

FA: G Bradbury, J Smoothy, 2000

24
Sport 20m
8 * Guerilla Warfare

Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.

Start: As for Siesta

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23
Sport 18m , 6
9 ** Siesta

All ring bolts.

FA: David James,

23
Sport 15m
10 Pull ya finger out!

Start at Siesta (first two clips) then traverse break to third, then up over lip as for Sister Rosa to anchors. Great sustained climbing at the grade.

FFA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

22
Sport 15m , 9
11 ** Sister Rosa

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

FA: T Bretherton, G Bradbury, 2000

22
Sport 18m , 8
12 Suicidal Tendencies

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

FA: J Boyton, 2000

12
Sport 18m , 4
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