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Description

A 15m high wall with vertical to overhanging routes.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

100m downstream of the ladders. Can also be accessed by crossing the creek after Creek Boulder and Gulf War Wall and follow a climbers track through the middle of the creek for 10m then cross back to the left side for a further 100m. Scramble across boulders to the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow closed seam/crack up steep wall. Start at left hand end of the wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

Immediately right of Constrictor

Follow R bolts up and diagonally L to the low anchors R of The Constrictor, crossing the project. 3m R of the Project

FA: Adam McIain, 2007

Up the nice orange wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

Start as for Poison then traverse right via a hard move then big tricky moves between jugs for a pumpy finish.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

Boulder out the thin flakes for the direct start.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Canyon Wall.