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Table of contents

1. The Dam Cliffs 65 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250534, -33.484536

Description:© (boulderman)

A peculiar area, so named because of the abandoned dam.

Useful Info: This is a great free swimming hole - where the water is cold and deep. It is a popular option in summer when the heat gets too much (or if you want to cool off after climbing at a nearby crag).

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (boulderman)

Turn off is exactly 6.2km past the Darling Causeway (just before a bridge over the railway). Drive alongside the railway, taking the track to the left about 400m along. Follow the track paralleling the train tracks (fine for standard cars provided you use caution). Follow along for about one km until the track veers left away from the tracks. A few hundred metres down you find a large clearing, where most people park. The Crag is down the track to the right, down a steep track. It’s a relatively easy walk down. This is accessible by 4WD, but only recommended for experienced drivers and in a raised vehicle.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bare Foot Bandits

FA: D O'Donnell, D McQueen, 2005

5 Unknown 15m

1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS 5 routes in Cliff

All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 150.249779, -33.482880


Deep Water Soloing on the 10m cliff in the middle of the Dam. Fairly juggy face climbing, and clean falls into the deep water.

Numerous different routes have been climbed here over the years, and there are a number of top-rope anchors above the cliff itself. No FA details known.


From the parking area, walk down to the dam pool, and swim out to the main cliffline in the middle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dam spooge

Climb out of the water about 4-5m left of the rooflet and head straight up with some reachy moves to follow.

22 DWS
2 ** The Low Traverse

ing 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left staying beneath the rooflet and following the ironstone band all the way to the far left end of the face staying about 2m above the water the whole way.

Finish up the blunt arete via some technical moves to top out.

18 DWS 30m
3 ** The Line of Least Resistance

Starting 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left until below rooflet. Up through rooflet on good edges to regain ironstone band, and traverse left heading upwards to keep hands on the ironstone edges. Crux (crimp ironstone edges and minimal feet) then when about 2/3rds across the wall, head upwards to top out left of the highest point.

17 DWS 20m
4 The High Traverse

Traverse in from the right hand side (about 2m below the top) and traverse across the entire face at its highest point.

DWS 16m
5 * Right of the Rooflet

Start from in in the water and go straight up. Dry a bit. And keep going up.

FA: Parched climber

20 DWS 10m

1.2. Aerobar Wall 3 routes in Cliff

All Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.250711, -33.483479


This is the small wall covered in lots of pocket holes, just like an Aerobar chocolate.


The wall is located on the right, as you walk down the access track, just before the creek crossing. Opposite side of creek to 'Wet Feet'.

Descent Notes:

Perfect wall for beginners and kids. 3 top rope routes on this wall. Carrot bolt anchors at top. These are on your left when walking out to the top of B2's top anchors.


Unknown history of who placed the anchors or did FA's? Happy to update details. Routes were cleaned in Sept. 2015.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Trad

Left most route (facing in) on this wall. Carrot bolt anchors at top. May also go as a Trad climb?

FA: Unknown, 2015

12 Top rope 8m
2 Black or Pink

Route to the right of the mossy garden, 3m right of Old Trad (facing in). Carrot bolt anchors at top. May also go as a Trad climb?

FA: Unknown, 2015

12 Top rope 8m
3 Scrub-a-dub

Right most route (facing in). Carrot bolt anchors at top. May also go as a Trad climb.

FA: Unknown, 2015

12 Top rope 8m

1.3. Wet Feet Area 3 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250779, -33.483572


The Big Boulder on the other side of the creek as you first walk in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wet Feet

Carrots to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: A Brown, M Pearce, 2000

17 Sport 14m
2 Unknown

Start from the top of a small boulder and traverse left then up into Wet Feet

17 Sport 10m
3 B2

Start: up the face across the creek from Wet Feet boulder, to the right on the wall facing Mossy Wall.

FA: Brown Brothers

16 Sport 8m, 3

1.4. Mossy Wall 9 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250555, -33.483641


Maybe it used to be mossy but it's pretty nice now with lots of traffic.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Matador

Carrots on traverse, ring bolts on vertical section. Tops out to 2 bolt belay.

Rebolted 6-01-2007

19 Sport 15m
2 B1

SSGICs (Stainless Steel Glue-in Carrots), with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 2 bolt belay).

FA: A Brown, M Pearce, 2000

19 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Truancy Officer

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

20 Sport 20m
4 Death of the Moss Monster

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: C Hale, 2000

18 Sport 20m
5 Shadow the Goat

Stainless FHs and one RB to lower offs or top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, E Fairleigh, 2000

19 Sport 20m
6 Fucary Rug

Carrots, some with fixed hanger, to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: M Pearce, A Brown, 2000

14 Sport 15m
7 Jug City

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000

12 Sport 15m
8 unknown

Dirty route R of 'Jug City'

FA: Unknown, 2006

14 Sport 12m
9 Hesitation

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000

10 Sport 15m

1.5. Steep Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250524, -33.483923


Directly opposite Mossy Wall. A nice overhanging wall with awesome scoops similar but much better than Ladder of Gloom at Berowra

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ted Turd-Tossa

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall.

Carrots to lower off.

FA: E Garnett, 2000

17 Sport 6m
2 Little Diego

Carrots to 2 bolt belay.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

19 Sport 12m
3 Alone in a Sea of Bolts

FA: J Boyton, 2000

14 Trad 15m
4 Vasco Pyjama

Sandbagged at 18 in Pircher/Carter guide (a hold has broken since FA - it's more like 22).

Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

22 Sport 16m, 4
5 Smorgasbord

Rising linkup through all interesting features on wall.

FA: Brad Thomas, 2004

20 Sport 12m
6 * Friendly Fire

Thin face climbing on good rock with reachy crux. Carrot bolt at first, then fixed hangers all the way. Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs. Double ring lower off.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

21 Sport 12m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 * Stormin Norman

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

FA: J Smoothy, F Lumsden, 2000

18 Sport 12m, 4
8 * The Sisters of Fatima

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

16 Sport 12m, 5
9 * A Tale of Two Cities

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy

18 Sport 12m, 7
10 * School's Out

Climbs the face between the scoops of the adjacent routes. At the 5th ring move right to join 'Lonely Thursday'.

Start: 1m right of 'A Tale of Two Cities'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2010

23 Sport 12m
11 * Lonely Thursday

Rings to double ring lower off.

FA: C Hale, 2000

19 Sport 12m
12 Sloper for Saddam (Left Variant)

Avoid the crux of Sloper Of Saddam by traversing in from the left beginning at the start of Lonely Thursday.

19 Sport 15m
13 * Sloper for Saddam

Start off to the right of the 1st bolt.

FA: J Clark, 2000

19 Sport 15m
14 Aonang Aonang

Carrots/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark, J Kurko, 2000

20 Sport 12m
15 * Lay la Kay

Stainless carrots, first with FH, to double ring lower off.

FA: J Kurko, J Clark, 2000

22 Sport 12m
16 ** Dictator in a Deerstalker

Start on top of boulder as for War and Peace then go straight up. Bouldery moves on steep rock.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2009

23 Sport 9m, 4

1.6. Creek Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250397, -33.483804


The boulder on the other side of the creek from Gulf War Wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Up the Creek

Cross the creek at lower level. DRB at the top. This and the next route have a lower off at the top.

Start: Step over creek and up crack/boulder feature then up the face above to the lower off.

14 Sport 15m, 6
2 Waterfalling

After 'Unknown's 2nd bolt step R and follow the Tufa like Iron stone features up the wall to its R and L of 'Envirovandal'. Finish at the anchors as for 'Unknown'.

Start: As for 'Unknown'.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

18 Sport 15m
3 Enviro Vandal

Committing first move over creek to gain boulder and clip carrot bolt. Follow carrots up right hand end of boulder. Rap off double fixed carabiner belay.

Description updated 2014-04-26 to match 2010 Guide. Routes for this area were previously incorrectly labelled.

FA: J Boyton, E Fairleigh, 2000

19 Sport 12m, 6
4 Sounds of Water

Climbs the face to the R of Enviro Vandal past the weird flakes ironstone and gluin carrots

FA: @mattbrooks1,@pisskopf, 2011

19 Sport 15m, 5

1.7. Gulf War Wall 13 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250264, -33.483854


The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** War and Peace

Start on top of boulder as for Dictator in a Deerstalker but step immediately right, then up.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

25 Sport 10m, 5
2 ** Warhorse

A link up. Fun, bouldery and a step up from War and Peace if you are walking up that easily. Start as for WMD past a few bolts them go L and up into WaP joining it after the starting moves. Follow it to the top.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2011

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

27 Sport 15m, 9
3 ** WMD

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

28 Sport 15m, 8
4 ** Cannon Fodder

Red RB's following hueco system, leaving top hueco on it's RH side to clip before joining last RB of Voice of America then DRB belay. Best backjump to clean. Start: Just right of WMD.

FA: Pete Webster, 2011

24 Sport 5
5 * Radio Baghdad

Hard bouldery climbing at the top may be harder no as its lost the edges on the crux holds which made it alot easier. Start as for Voice of America. Up the lower wall past a RB to the break. Step L 2m and make a big past an undercling to another bouldery move L to the start of the scoopy holds heading up the highest part of the wall. Watch the wall behind you.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

26 Sport 20m, 7
6 ** Baghdad Burning

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

FFA: Matt Brooks

26 Sport 15m
7 ** Voice of America

Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave on shiny new RBs to anchors. Bold cruxy climbing in an awesome location. Back Jump to clean (beware the wall behind you). Rebolted 2008 Rasmet 101. Currently graded 23 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

24 Sport 20m, 6
8 ** Nobody's War

FA: G Bradbury, J Smoothy, 2000

24 Sport 20m
9 * Guerilla Warfare

Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.

Start: As for Siesta

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23 Sport 18m, 6
10 ** Siesta

All ring bolts.

FA: David James

23 Sport 15m
11 Pull ya finger out!

Start at Siesta (first two clips) then traverse break to third, then up over lip as for Sister Rosa to anchors. Great sustained climbing at the grade.

FFA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

22 Sport 15m, 9
12 ** Sister Rosa

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

FA: T Bretherton, G Bradbury, 2000

22 Sport 18m, 8
13 Suicidal Tendencies

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

FA: J Boyton, 2000

12 Sport 18m, 4

1.8. Shady Alley 4 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250945, -33.483899

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alpine Exit

Up mossy, chossy scoop on poor pro trying not to kill the lovely orchids. Top out to belay off old carrots a few metres back.

Start: Behind huge tree.

FA: J Boyton, J Hart, 2000

14 Sport 15m
2 Bourke's Backyard

Bouldery moves to get established then climb right edge of mossy scoop clipping bolts on right.

Start: 1m right of AE.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

18 Sport 18m, 3
3 * Water Resistance

Balancy start then up and right a bit on ironstones.

Start: At bottom of passage between main face and huge detached block, just before it opens out into cave.

FA: M Wilson, 2000

19 Sport 20m, 4
4 Dunny Doo

This is a training wall for Lead Climbers to practice clipping and re-threading. There are also 2 bolts at ground level to practice re-threading, just to the right.

FA: @xesholds97, 2015

8 Sport 4m, 2

1.9. Canyon Wall 6 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.249738, -33.484162


A 15m high wall with vertical to overhanging routes.


100m downstream of the ladders. Can also be accessed by following the creek downstream of Gulf War Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Constrictor

Follow closed seam/crack up steep wall. Start at left hand end of the wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25 Sport 15m, 6
2 Anti Venine - Project

Immediately right of Constrictor

Sport Project 18m
3 Snake Bite

Follow R bolts up and diagonally L to the low anchors R of The Constrictor, crossing the project. 3m R of the Project

FA: Adam McIain, 2007

24 Sport 12m
4 Poison

Up the nice orange wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23 Sport 15m
5 Snake in the grass

Start as for Poison then traverse right via a hard move then jugs to glory.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

18 Sport 18m
6 * Snake in the grass DS

Boulder out the thin flakes for the direct start.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

20 Sport 15m

1.10. Shark Tooth 1 route in Sector

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250838, -33.485876


Info as of 4/2016 - This is an old crag (pre-2001), with 2 old ring bolted routes, by yet unknown persons? More recently (2004-8?), 2 other routes have been bolted, by yet unknown persons? CAUTION - this crag has some very unstable rock in places and some unsafe ring bolts. Experienced climbers only should venture here, until some cleaning and re-bolting can be done.


Access 1 - Most reliably found by thrashing down the creek from Dam Cliffs main climbing area, (as if you're going to do Dargan's Creek canyon) for about 400m. After a significant right hand bend in the creek, it's the shady south facing wall on your right, with a fairly good looking 20m high central arête and a west wall, with routes on both side. Access 2 - From the large top car park (at the railway line) drive as you would to Dam Cliffs for 20m, then take the 2nd (or 3rd) track on the right, as seen on the topo map. Drive out this track for 20m. This is the telephone line track. Stop at small turning bay, before track drops down the hill and gets rough. Then walk out till you see the west wall. Walk to the furthest east corner on top of the rock, where there is a fixed rap in rope. Clamber your way down and head back along the cliff line till you see the first line of bolts, just before the arete.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 2 rocks exit the wall

The warm up route. Shorter line of bolts, 8m right of the arete, facing in.

FA: unknown

17 Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Bare Foot Bandits Unknown 15m 1. The Dam Cliffs
8 Dunny Doo Sport 4m, 2 1.8. Shady Alley
10 Hesitation Sport 15m 1.4. Mossy Wall
12 Black or Pink Top rope 8m 1.2. Aerobar Wall
Old Trad Top rope 8m 1.2. Aerobar Wall
Scrub-a-dub Top rope 8m 1.2. Aerobar Wall
Jug City Sport 15m 1.4. Mossy Wall
Suicidal Tendencies Sport 18m, 4 1.7. Gulf War Wall
14 Fucary Rug Sport 15m 1.4. Mossy Wall
unknown Sport 12m 1.4. Mossy Wall
Alone in a Sea of Bolts Trad 15m 1.5. Steep Wall
Up the Creek Sport 15m, 6 1.6. Creek Boulder
Alpine Exit Sport 15m 1.8. Shady Alley
16 B2 Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Wet Feet Area
* The Sisters of Fatima Sport 12m, 5 1.5. Steep Wall
17 ** The Line of Least Resistance DWS 20m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Unknown Sport 10m 1.3. Wet Feet Area
** Wet Feet Sport 14m 1.3. Wet Feet Area
Ted Turd-Tossa Sport 6m 1.5. Steep Wall
* 2 rocks exit the wall Sport 15m 1.10. Shark Tooth
18 ** The Low Traverse DWS 30m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Death of the Moss Monster Sport 20m 1.4. Mossy Wall
* A Tale of Two Cities Sport 12m, 7 1.5. Steep Wall
* Stormin Norman Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Steep Wall
Waterfalling Sport 15m 1.6. Creek Boulder
Bourke's Backyard Sport 18m, 3 1.8. Shady Alley
Snake in the grass Sport 18m 1.9. Canyon Wall
19 B1 Sport 15m 1.4. Mossy Wall
** Matador Sport 15m 1.4. Mossy Wall
Shadow the Goat Sport 20m 1.4. Mossy Wall
Little Diego Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
* Lonely Thursday Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
* Sloper for Saddam Sport 15m 1.5. Steep Wall
Sloper for Saddam (Left Variant) Sport 15m 1.5. Steep Wall
Enviro Vandal Sport 12m, 6 1.6. Creek Boulder
Sounds of Water Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Creek Boulder
* Water Resistance Sport 20m, 4 1.8. Shady Alley
20 * Right of the Rooflet DWS 10m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Truancy Officer Sport 20m 1.4. Mossy Wall
Aonang Aonang Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
Smorgasbord Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
* Snake in the grass DS Sport 15m 1.9. Canyon Wall
21 * Friendly Fire Sport 12m, 7 1.5. Steep Wall
22 ** Dam spooge DWS 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
* Lay la Kay Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
Vasco Pyjama Sport 16m, 4 1.5. Steep Wall
Pull ya finger out! Sport 15m, 9 1.7. Gulf War Wall
** Sister Rosa Sport 18m, 8 1.7. Gulf War Wall
23 ** Dictator in a Deerstalker Sport 9m, 4 1.5. Steep Wall
* School's Out Sport 12m 1.5. Steep Wall
* Guerilla Warfare Sport 18m, 6 1.7. Gulf War Wall
** Siesta Sport 15m 1.7. Gulf War Wall
Poison Sport 15m 1.9. Canyon Wall
24 ** Cannon Fodder Sport 5 1.7. Gulf War Wall
** Nobody's War Sport 20m 1.7. Gulf War Wall
** Voice of America Sport 20m, 6 1.7. Gulf War Wall
Snake Bite Sport 12m 1.9. Canyon Wall
25 ** War and Peace Sport 10m, 5 1.7. Gulf War Wall
The Constrictor Sport 15m, 6 1.9. Canyon Wall
26 ** Baghdad Burning Sport 15m 1.7. Gulf War Wall
* Radio Baghdad Sport 20m, 7 1.7. Gulf War Wall
27 ** Warhorse Sport 15m, 9 1.7. Gulf War Wall
28 ** WMD Sport 15m, 8 1.7. Gulf War Wall
? The High Traverse DWS 16m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Anti Venine - Project Sport Project 18m 1.9. Canyon Wall