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Table of contents

1. The Dam Cliffs 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250534, -33.484536

Description:© (boulderman)

A peculiar area, so named because of the abandoned dam.

Useful Info: This is a great free swimming hole - where the water is cold and deep. It is a popular option in summer when the heat gets too much (or if you want to cool off after climbing at a nearby crag).

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bare Foot Bandits

FA: D O'Donnell, D McQueen, 2005

5Unknown 15m

1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 150.249779, -33.482880

Description:

Deep Water Soloing on the 10m cliff in the middle of the Dam. Fairly juggy face climbing, and clean falls into the deep water.

Numerous different routes have been climbed here over the years, and there are a number of top-rope anchors above the cliff itself. No FA details known.

Approach:

From the parking area, walk down to the dam pool, and swim out to the main cliffline in the middle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dam spooge

Climb out of the water about 4-5m left of the rooflet and head straight up with some reachy moves to follow.

22DWS
2 ** The Low Traverse

ing 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left staying beneath the rooflet and following the ironstone band all the way to the far left end of the face staying about 2m above the water the whole way.

Finish up the blunt arete via some technical moves to top out.

18DWS 30m
3 ** The Line of Least Resistance

Starting 6m left of the RIGHT-side of the cliff, up out of water via iron-stone flakes, and traverse left until below rooflet. Up through rooflet on good edges to regain ironstone band, and traverse left heading upwards to keep hands on the ironstone edges. Crux (crimp ironstone edges and minimal feet) then when about 2/3rds across the wall, head upwards to top out left of the highest point.

17DWS 20m
4 The High Traverse

Traverse in from the right hand side (about 2m below the top) and traverse across the entire face at its highest point.

DWS 16m
5 * Right of the Rooflet

Start from in in the water and go straight up. Dry a bit. And keep going up.

FA: Parched climber

20DWS

1.2. Wet Feet Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250779, -33.483572

Description:

The Big Boulder on the other side of the creek as you first walk in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wet Feet

Carrots to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: A Brown, M Pearce, 2000

17Sport 14m
2 Unknown

Start from the top of a small boulder and traverse left then up into Wet Feet

17Sport 10m
3 B2

Start: up the face across the creek from Wet Feet boulder, to the right on the wall facing Mossy Wall.

FA: Brown Brothers

16Sport 8m, 3

1.3. Mossy Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250555, -33.483641

Description:

Maybe it used to be mossy but it's pretty nice now with lots of traffic.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Matador

Carrots on traverse, ring bolts on vertical section. Tops out to 2 bolt belay.

Rebolted 6-01-2007

19Sport 15m
2 B1

SSGICs (Stainless Steel Glue-in Carrots), with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 2 bolt belay).

FA: A Brown, M Pearce, 2000

19Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Truancy Officer

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

20Sport 20m
4 Death of the Moss Monster

SSGICs, with FH at crux, to lower-offs. (Optional top-out with 3 bolt belay).

Rebolted 2-12-2006.

FA: C Hale, 2000

18Sport 20m
5 Shadow the Goat

Stainless FHs and one RB to lower offs or top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, E Fairleigh, 2000

19Sport 20m
6 Fucary Rug

Carrots, some with fixed hanger, to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: M Pearce, A Brown, 2000

14Sport 15m
7 Jug City

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000

12Sport 15m
8 unknown

Dirty route R of 'Jug City'

FA: Unknown, 2006

14Sport 12m
9 Hesitation

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

FA: J Boyton, 2000

10Sport 15m

1.4. Steep Wall 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250524, -33.483923

Description:

Directly opposite Mossy Wall. A nice overhanging wall with awesome scoops similar but much better than Ladder of Gloom at Berowra

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ted Turd-Tossa

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall.

Carrots to lower off.

FA: E Garnett, 2000

17Sport 6m
2 Little Diego

Carrots to 2 bolt belay.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

19Sport 12m
3 Alone in a Sea of Bolts

FA: J Boyton, 2000

14Trad 15m
4 Vasco Pyjama

Sandbagged at 18 in Pircher/Carter guide (a hold has broken since FA - it's more like 22).

Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

22Sport 16m
5 * Smorgasbord

Rising linkup through all interesting features on wall.

FA: Brad Thomas, 2004

20Sport 12m
6 * Friendly Fire

Thin face climbing on good rock with reachy crux. Carrot bolt at first, then fixed hangers all the way. Rebolted 2-12-2006 with SSGICs and some FHs. Double ring lower off.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

21Sport 12m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 * Stormin Normin

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

FA: J Smoothy, F Lumsden, 2000

18Sport 12m
8 * The Sisters of Fatima

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

FA: F Lumsden, J Smoothy, 2000

16Sport 12m
9 * A Tale of Two Cities

Information according to Blue Mountains Climbing 2007 Edition: 12 Metres: Awkward start then cruisy. First Ascentionists: F Lumsden & J Smoothy 1993

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy

18Sport 12m, 7
10 * School's Out

Climbs the face between the scoops of the adjacent routes. At the 5th ring move right to join 'Lonely Thursday'.

Start: 1m right of 'A Tale of Two Cities'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2010

23Sport 12m
11 * Lonely Thursday

Rings to double ring lower off.

(Originally carrots - rebolted 2-12-2006).

FA: C Hale, 2000

19Sport 12m
12 Sloper for Saddam

Carrot/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark, 2000

19Sport 15m
13 * Slopers for Saddam Direct Start

Start off to the right of the 1st carrot.

22Sport 15m
14 Aonang Aonang

Carrots/FHs to double ring lower off.

FA: J Clark, J Kurko, 2000

20Sport 12m
15 * Lay la Kay

Stainless carrots, first with FH, to double ring lower off.

FA: J Kurko, J Clark, 2000

22Sport 12m
16 ** Dictator in a Deerstalker

Start on top of boulder as for War and Peace then go straight up. Bouldery moves on steep rock.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2009

23Sport 9m, 4

1.5. Creek Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250397, -33.483804

Description:

The boulder on the other side of the creek from Gulf War Wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown

Cross the creek at lower level, then traverse easily up and left to DBB on top. Best to rap off top of the next route.

Start: Step over creek and up crack/boulder feature.

Description updated 2014-04-26 to match 2010 Guide. Routes for this area were previously incorrectly labelled.

14Sport 15m
2 Envirovandal

Committing first move over creek to gain boulder, before you can clip a bolt, then easy. Rap off double fixed carabiner belay.

Description updated 2014-04-26 to match 2010 Guide. Routes for this area were previously incorrectly labelled.

FA: J Boyton, E Fairleigh, 2000

19Sport 25m, 6
3 * Waterfalling

After 'Unknown's 2nd bolt step R and follow the Tufa like Iron stone features up the wall to its R and L of 'Envirovandal'. Finish at the anchors as for 'Unknown'.

Start: As for 'Unknown'.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

18Sport
4 The Sounds of Water

This is a duplicate route. To be deleted.

See Envirovandal.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Peter Webster, 2011

17Sport 15m, 6

1.6. Gulf War Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250264, -33.483854

Description:

The overhanging wall that is an extension of Steep Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** War and Peace

Start as for Dictator in a Deerstalker and head right.

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

25Sport 20m
2 ** Warhorse

A link up. Fun, bouldery and a step up from War and Peace if you are walking up that easily. Start as for WMD past a few bolts them go L and up into WaP joining it after the starting moves. Follow it to the top.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2011

FA: Matt Brooks, 2011

27Sport 15m, 9
3 ** WMD

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

28Sport 15m, 8
4 ** Cannon Fodder

Red RB's following hueco system, leaving top hueco on it's RH side to clip before joining last RB of Voice of America then DRB belay. Best backjump to clean. Start: Just right of WMD.

FA: Pete Webster, 2011

24Sport 5
5 * Radio Baghdad

FA: G Bradbury, 2000

26Sport 20m
6 ** Baghdad Burning

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

FFA: Matt Brooks

26Sport 15m
7 ** Voice of America

Steep climbing straight up the guts of the cave on shiny new RBs to anchors. Bold cruxy climbing in an awesome location. Back Jump to clean (beware the wall behind you). Rebolted 2008 Rasmet 101. Currently graded 23 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

FA: J Smoothy, 2000

24Sport 20m, 6
8 ** Nobody's War

FA: G Bradbury, J Smoothy, 2000

24Sport 20m
9 * Guerilla Warfare

Up 'Siesta' to the lip then go diagonally L across the face to the anchors of Nobody's War. No harder just a pumpier longer finish.

Start: As for Siesta

FA: Matt Brooks, 2000

23Sport 18m, 6
10 ** Siesta

All ring bolts.

FA: David James

23Sport 15m
11 Pull ya finger out!

Start at Siesta (first two clips) then traverse break to third, then up over lip as for Sister Rosa to anchors. Great sustained climbing at the grade.

FFA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2011

22Sport 15m, 9
12 ** Sister Rosa

Bouldery powerful start, then mantle to break, odd move through roof then up.

FA: T Bretherton, G Bradbury, 2000

22Sport 18m, 8
13 Suicidal Tendencies

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

FA: J Boyton, 2000

12Sport 18m, 4

1.7. Shady Alley 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.250945, -33.483899

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alpine Exit

Up mossy, chossy scoop on poor pro trying not to kill the lovely orchids. Top out to belay off old carrots a few metres back.

Start: Behind huge tree.

FA: J Boyton, J Hart, 2000

14Sport 15m
2 Bourke's Backyard

Bouldery moves to get established then climb right edge of mossy scoop clipping bolts on right.

Start: 1m right of AE.

FA: D Barlow, 2000

18Sport 18m, 3
3 * Water Resistance

Balancy start then up and right a bit on ironstones.

Start: At bottom of passage between main face and huge detached block, just before it opens out into cave.

FA: M Wilson, 2000

19Sport 20m, 4

1.8. Canyon Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.249738, -33.484162

Description:

A 15m high wall with vertical to overhanging routes.

Approach:

100m downstream of the ladders. Can also be accessed by following the creek downstream of Gulf War Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Constrictor

Follow closed seam/crack up steep wall. Start at left hand end of the wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

25Sport 15m, 6
2 Anti Venine - Project

Immediately right of Constrictor

Sport Project 18m
3 Snake Bite

Follow R bolts up and diagonally L to the low anchors R of The Constrictor, crossing the project. 3m R of the Project

FA: Adam McIain, 2007

24Sport 12m
4 Poison

Up the nice orange wall.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

23Sport 15m
5 Snake in the grass

Start as for Poison then traverse right via a hard move then jugs to glory.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

18Sport 18m
6 * Snake in the grass DS

Boulder out the thin flakes for the direct start.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2014

20Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Bare Foot Bandits Unknown 15m 1. The Dam Cliffs
10 Hesitation Sport 15m 1.3. Mossy Wall
12 Jug City Sport 15m 1.3. Mossy Wall
Suicidal Tendencies Sport 18m, 4 1.6. Gulf War Wall
14 Fucary Rug Sport 15m 1.3. Mossy Wall
unknown Sport 12m 1.3. Mossy Wall
Alone in a Sea of Bolts Trad 15m 1.4. Steep Wall
Unknown Sport 15m 1.5. Creek Boulder
Alpine Exit Sport 15m 1.7. Shady Alley
16 B2 Sport 8m, 3 1.2. Wet Feet Area
* The Sisters of Fatima Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
17 ** The Line of Least Resistance DWS 20m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Unknown Sport 10m 1.2. Wet Feet Area
** Wet Feet Sport 14m 1.2. Wet Feet Area
Ted Turd-Tossa Sport 6m 1.4. Steep Wall
The Sounds of Water Sport 15m, 6 1.5. Creek Boulder
18 ** The Low Traverse DWS 30m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Death of the Moss Monster Sport 20m 1.3. Mossy Wall
* A Tale of Two Cities Sport 12m, 7 1.4. Steep Wall
* Stormin Normin Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Waterfalling Sport 1.5. Creek Boulder
Bourke's Backyard Sport 18m, 3 1.7. Shady Alley
Snake in the grass Sport 18m 1.8. Canyon Wall
19 B1 Sport 15m 1.3. Mossy Wall
** Matador Sport 15m 1.3. Mossy Wall
Shadow the Goat Sport 20m 1.3. Mossy Wall
Little Diego Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Lonely Thursday Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
Sloper for Saddam Sport 15m 1.4. Steep Wall
Envirovandal Sport 25m, 6 1.5. Creek Boulder
* Water Resistance Sport 20m, 4 1.7. Shady Alley
20 * Right of the Rooflet DWS 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Truancy Officer Sport 20m 1.3. Mossy Wall
Aonang Aonang Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Smorgasbord Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Snake in the grass DS Sport 15m 1.8. Canyon Wall
21 * Friendly Fire Sport 12m, 7 1.4. Steep Wall
22 ** Dam spooge DWS 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
* Lay la Kay Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Slopers for Saddam Direct Start Sport 15m 1.4. Steep Wall
Vasco Pyjama Sport 16m 1.4. Steep Wall
Pull ya finger out! Sport 15m, 9 1.6. Gulf War Wall
** Sister Rosa Sport 18m, 8 1.6. Gulf War Wall
23 ** Dictator in a Deerstalker Sport 9m, 4 1.4. Steep Wall
* School's Out Sport 12m 1.4. Steep Wall
* Guerilla Warfare Sport 18m, 6 1.6. Gulf War Wall
** Siesta Sport 15m 1.6. Gulf War Wall
Poison Sport 15m 1.8. Canyon Wall
24 ** Cannon Fodder Sport 5 1.6. Gulf War Wall
** Nobody's War Sport 20m 1.6. Gulf War Wall
** Voice of America Sport 20m, 6 1.6. Gulf War Wall
Snake Bite Sport 12m 1.8. Canyon Wall
25 ** War and Peace Sport 20m 1.6. Gulf War Wall
The Constrictor Sport 15m, 6 1.8. Canyon Wall
26 ** Baghdad Burning Sport 15m 1.6. Gulf War Wall
* Radio Baghdad Sport 20m 1.6. Gulf War Wall
27 ** Warhorse Sport 15m, 9 1.6. Gulf War Wall
28 ** WMD Sport 15m, 8 1.6. Gulf War Wall
? The High Traverse DWS 16m 1.1. The Dam Cliff DWS
Anti Venine - Project Sport Project 18m 1.8. Canyon Wall