The Egg All Sport climbing10 routes in crag
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Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind, which makes it one of the most spooge-resistant crags in summer. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.
Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.© (mjw)
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk on firetrail then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). From the carpark, follow the main fire trail, and don't take any of the right turns. After about 12-15 minutes, you walk past a once-cleared area on the right, with a 'lean to' in it (which is now just bits of corrugated iron lying on the ground). This is where the Elphinstone track breaks off the firetrail to the left. Continue along the firetrail for 50m past this area to a fork, where the track straight ahead is less a firetrail and more a walking track (this leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders), and where a firebreak/firetrail heads right around the hillside. Follow the firebreak for approx 150m and look for a track on the left, usually marked by a cairn. The track is well trodden (but overgrows quickly, please bring secaturs) and heads straight downhill for 5 minutes, down some rock steps, then turn left and go 50m to the base of the crag.© (mjw)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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