A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.266477, -33.708769
- Description:© (mjw)
Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.
Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Approach:© (mjw)
The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). Stay on the main fire trail, dont take any right turns, until you walk past a cleared area with a 'lean to' in it (ruins). Turn right 10m past this area - the track straight ahead leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders - walk aprox 140m and look for track through rocks and logs. Track is well marked after this.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
Ike the Butcher
Start: 5m right of the sign.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2006
The warm up...if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.
FA: C.Coghill, 2003
Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?
A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.
Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?
The warm up if you arn't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!
FA: C.Coghill, 2004
Five Point Exploding Heart
Is solid for the grade now with the direct finish.
The Deal with Space
Like a Cornetto...no boring parts!
A great climb if you like mountains pockets.
FA: D Smith
The Floating Line (homage to an angel)
Everything you don't want your life's work to be. Awesome line, a grade harder after every move, run-out and sloppy!
The chips have been filled (somewhat poorly) so could be harder then 28...?
FA: Vision and bolting courtesy of Chris Coghill
FA: T.Wolf, M.Warren., 2007
A bit of a wall traverse.
FA: C. Coghill, 2005
Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof.
A hold broke several years ago, this climb should probable be removed..
FA: L. Cossey, 2000
|The Deal with Space||15m|
|Ike the Butcher||15m|
|28||Five Point Exploding Heart||20m|
|The Floating Line (homage to an angel)||22m|