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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.266477, -33.708769
- Description:© (mjw)
Like 'Diamond Falls' and 'Gateway' this crag attracts the wind, which makes it one of the most spooge-resistant crags in summer. In summer the sun hits the crag at about 2pm. Funky sport climbing. An excellent find.
Useful Info: No matter what the weather is like at the car take a jacket or jumper - and a hat! Its wilderness so please treat it with respect. No new routes, no cairns.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Approach:© (mjw)
The Egg is situated on the Elphinstone Plateau approximately 5mins from Katoomba and 15mins from Blackheath. If approaching from Blackheath turn right at the Explorers Rd – do not attempt to turn into Explorers Rd at the 'Marked Tree'. 20mins easy walk on firetrail then 7mins down a steep track. The track to the crag is not marked as such (see info and access). From the carpark, follow the main fire trail, and don't take any of the right turns. After about 12-15 minutes, you walk past a once-cleared area on the right, with a 'lean to' in it (which is now just bits of corrugated iron lying on the ground). This is where the Elphinstone track breaks off the firetrail to the left. Continue along the firetrail for 50m past this area to a fork, where the track straight ahead is less a firetrail and more a walking track (this leads to the Trig Station and Esgate's Ladders), and where a firebreak/firetrail heads right around the hillside. Follow the firebreak for approx 150m and look for a track on the left, usually marked by a cairn. The track is well trodden (but overgrows quickly, please bring secaturs) and heads straight downhill for 5 minutes, down some rock steps, then turn left and go 50m to the base of the crag.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Ike the Butcher
Start: 5m right of the sign.
FA: lloyd wishart, 2006
The warm up...if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.
FA: C.Coghill, 2003
Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?
A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.
Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?
The warm up if you aren't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!
FA: C.Coghill, 2004
Five Point Exploding Heart
Is solid for the grade now with the direct finish.
The Deal with Space
Like a Cornetto...no boring parts!
A great climb if you like mountains pockets.
FA: D Smith
The Floating Line (homage to an angel)
The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick?
Set by Chris Coghill
FA: T.Wolf, 2007
Same start as the last two climbs but keeps drifting right to anchors on the arête. Sent as horizontal hail arrived.
FA: C. Coghill, 2005
Stick clip ring on the lip and pass rope through the hooks in the roof. A hold broke several years ago, this climb should probably be removed..
FA: L. Cossey, 2000
|The Deal with Space||15m|
|Ike the Butcher||15m|
|28||Five Point Exploding Heart||20m|
|The Floating Line (homage to an angel)||722m,|