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Description:

Expeditionary undertaking. Classic Ewbank no doubt. Obvious crack in yellow and black wall capped by large roofs on SW facing cliff below Fortress Ridge. Visible from Evans Lookout.

Leave car on Mount Hay Rd and walk along 4wd track on to Fortress Ridge. At end of track head WSW along prominent subsidiary ridge. Upon reaching cliffs, head S around small upper cliffline and down bushy ramp. 3 long abseils on double ropes to reach a big ledge. Scramble L along ledge and down bushy gully to short abseil at bottom.

Start: Walk NW 300m to base of route.

  1. 18m (16) Black crack to small bushy ledge.

  2. 24m (19) Up over 2 ledges, then corner-crack to grassy ledge.

  3. 20m (18) Belay under small overhang on R. Corner to ledge. (good bivy site?)

  4. 30m (21) Crux. Cracks, then major crackling to foot ledge on L, below small roof.(#1.5 cam, wires).

  5. 15m (19) Crack to shale ledge on right. (Cams 3m above ledge.)

  6. 15m (21) Equal crux. Overhanging crack to large slot. Bolt belay.

  7. 25m (18) Crawl 3m R, then left up wall to corner and roof. Now left to aerate and crack above to ledge.(Poor pro).

  8. 20m (12) Crack, and corner to tree.

  9. 50m (12) Up to black slabs, and up.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Ewbank

  • First Free Ascent: Trihey & Ewbank

  • First Ascent: Lucas Trihey & John Ewbank

    1 & 2 October 1993.

Location:  

Located in The Fortress approx:
Long/Lat: 150.347729,-33.643496

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 * Thomas Schattovits

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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