- Height: 180m
- Bolts: 25
- Pitches: 6
- Breakdown: 8, 18, 19, 18, 18, 20
- Ascents: 4
Mixed carrots and trad route up the grand wall right of Tom Thumb. Refer to Sydney Rockies site for most up to date route info. Be aware that this is a new route and there are some loose holds still. Steep face climbing, good rock and reasonable pro.
Start: rap as for 'Tom Thumb'
18m (8) Up 'Tom Thumb' P1, onto block at 10m and up right to belay. Then walk R into gully and up 10m
45m (18) Up block and layback then R up wall past bolts and crack, then R to steep wall and bolts and up slab past cams and hard mantel, left top 3BB in break.
35m (19) Up and slightly R past bolts and cams, then left into corner (good thin break at top) up steep wall (BRs) and runout up to slab and 3BB below cave.
30m (18) Up to cave and bush runner. Rightwards 12.30 o'clock past bolts then leftwards up corner (average pro) and easy arête to DBB on big ledge. Walk left 20m to another DBB.
15m (18) walk R and up 2 waves of rock past 5 BRs. Belay on a high bolt and a Ubolt. There is a 50 year old carrot on the ledge
30m (19) Up steep wall past 2 BRs and sling, the up left on easy wall, walk 6 m to left end of rock band and 2 BB.
Walk left to hit track.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: mikl law & Brian Simonds, 2011
Located in The Fortress approx:
Route Grade Citations
|19 to 20||Community registered grade|
|19||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 67%
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