The Wind Cries Mary
19 to 20
- Height: 180m
- Pitches: 6
- Ascents: 1
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Mostly bolted (carrots) route that climbs first pitch of Tom Thumb before heading off right on wall. Refer to Sydney Rockies site for most up to date route info. Be aware that this is a new route and there is a lot of hold breakage still to go.
Steep face climbing, good rock and reasonable pro.
Start: rap as for 'Tom Thumb'
18m (8) Up 'Tom Thumb' P1, onto block at 10m and up right to belay. Then walk R into gully and up 10m
45m (18) Up block and layback then R up wall past bolts and crack, then R to steep wall and bolts and up slab past cams and hard mantel, left top 3BB in break.
35m (19) Up and slightly R past bolts and cams, then left inot corner (good thin break at top) up steep wall (BR) and runout up to slab. Cam belay in letter box 3m below cave.
30m (18) Rightwards 12.30 o'clock past bolts then leftwards up corner and easy arête to DBB on big ledge. Walk left 20m to another DBB.
50m (18) Left past bolt and trend left 11.30, left of bush and up line leading into orange corner past average cams and poor sling. The corner is fused and blank, it turns out, and head onto jugs on the right arête to find a bolt and sling runners. Then up slab and scramble up ledges and corner to top. Walk left to hit track.
First Ascent: mikl law, Brian Simonds, 26 Jun 2011
Located in The Fortress approx:
Route Grade Citations
|19||ACA Route Register|
|19 to 20||Principal|