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Summary

A bit of a walk to get here but once you have arrived you will be treated with some very good early to mid grade 20's and some classic harder climbs over the log of death. Summer time gem.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Terra Incognita Sport 18m

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

2
19 Absolute Zero Sport 23m

Try not to hit anything if you fall...

FA: L.McManus, 1994

3
22 The Optimist Sport 24m

Bit cranky down low then cruise to anchors

FA: Glenn Short

4
19 * Chris' Crack Trad 25m

Mmmm.

FA: C.Jewel, 1994

5
23 R * Storm Watch Sport 25m

FA: C.Van de Reyt, 1994

6
18 * Soul Sister Sport 24m

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

7
20 * Old Blobby Sport 25m

The arete. Seems to be a thiefs paradise as all attempts to ensure that the lower off anchors are safe is thwarted by theft.

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

8
24 *** Good Big Dog Sport 22m

Apparently a soft tick!

FA: S.Butler, 1992

9
22 * Extension Lead Sport 20m

Burly start then cruisy

FA: M. Law

10
24 * Rat$ Sport 20m

FA: M.Law, 1992

11
24 ** Unity (Rat$ Direct) Sport 25m

Up Rat$ till about 1/2 way, then head rightish up obvious feature, and up to anchors. Pretty Cool..

FA: Nate Bolton, 2009

FA: Nathan Bolton, 2009

12
23 *** Cryogenics Sport 25m

FA: M.Portman, 2000

13
22 ** SWALK Sport 25m

Another crowd favorite. Has recently been rebolted.

FA: M.Law, 1992

14
24 *** Meat Mallet Sport 25m

Start as for SWALK, then veer right.

FA: M.Stacey, 1993

15
23 * Ice Cubed Sport 25m

Choss!

FA: V.Condos, 1994

16
24 * Semantics Sport 25m

Choss.

FA: J.Clark,J.Kurko,M.Wilson, 1994

17
21 ** Bulls Head Sport 35m

Apparently quite fun! Belay from the top of rap of into thin air.

FA: V.Kondos, 1992

18
22 ** Mad Cow Disease Sport 22m

Excellent!

FA: V.Kondos, 1995

19
23 *** Hypoxic Sport 25m

FA: M.Stacey, 1993

20
26 ** Easy Fit Sport 25m

FA: F.Yule, 1998

21
25 ** Ha-Ha Wall Sport 27m

Hands on top, jump and lower off last bolt!

FA: M.Law, 2000

22

Hand on top, jump and lower off last ring.

FA: M.Law, 1996

23
27 ** M Sport 27m

FA: M.Law, 1993

24
23 * Doris'll Getcha! Sport 25m

FA: S.Butler, 1992

25
20 Tom Tom Club Sport 23m

FA: V.Kondos, 2000

26

A hard start followed by low angle wall climbing. Start at short corner with bolts, up corner and Groove/wall above.

FA: J.Smoothy, G. Bradbury, T. Bretherton, 1994

27
25 Spunknuns Sport 25m

Up the 'Arete' on Carrots

Start: 5m right of INOUTFLS

FA: M. Law, V. Kondos, 1995

28
26 * Dicky Ticker Sport 20m

Start: Lefthand route. Starts at the end of the 'death traverse'.

FA: M.Law, 1992

29

Start: Righthand route.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

30
23 ** Here's Johnny Trad 50m

The diagonal crack left of the obvious Splitter Crack (Looking for Johnny), directly below the right end of the Log of Death. Rap from tree above Looking for Johnny 30m to ledge. Start up initial grove as for Looking for Johnny, then branch out with the crack.

FA: M. Haffner, R. Stiles, M. Corkin, 2009

31
22 ** Looking for Johnny Trad 25m

The obvious splitter crack below the right end of the Log of Death. Rap from trees at the top of the splitter crack 30m to the ledge. Climb the crack straight up.

FA: R. Stiles, M. Corkin, M. Haffner, 2009

32
19 Double Standards Sport 17m

Up black wall past three U's to ledge then up to nice orange face.

Start: around arete from log of death.

FA: S. Hawkshaw, 2000

33
23 * Who Da Man? Sport 20m

Very steep! Start in the dust below the overhang at the left side of the sector. A belay bolt marks the spot.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 1995

34
20 Crag vandals Unknown 15m

FA: M.Corkin, R.Styles

35
21 Idiots with drills Unknown 15m

FA: M.Corkin, R.Styles

36
24 ** Slug Monk Sport 22m

FA: M.Stacey, 1994

37
25 *** Gruntled Sport 25m

Steep start, follow the corner then up.

FA: S.Butler, 1992

38
27 ** Messenger in Red Sport 23m

FA: M.Law, 2000

39
26 ** Better Dead than Red Sport 25m

FA: F.Yule, 2000

40
29 ** Pinking Sport 28m

FA: M.Law, 2000

41
30 ** Detache Mode Sport 28m

FA: M.Law, 2000

42
27 ** Lubberfiend Sport 28m

FA: M.Law, 2000

43
26 *** Lactictoc Sport 28m

Start left of the arête. Over the slab then continue up the steepness.

FA: M.Law, 1992

44
23 ** Warmenpumpen Sport 20m

Up the right side of the arête.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1993

45
23 * Aroma Gunsmoke Sport 25m

Start: Around the arete from 'Lactictoc'.

FA: S.McElroy, 1993

46
24 ** The Big Bamboozle Sport 20m

FA: M.Pircher, 1999

47

Under and over the arch, originally graded 24.

FA: D.Whitehouse, 1993

Open trips

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