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Description

Vertical climbing and easy grades.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Monkey Girl Sport 18m

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

FA: P Mort, 2011

2
15 The Arrow and the Song Sport 26m, 9

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

FA: Niall Doherty & Warwick Williams, 2010

3
16 Karinya Sport 25m

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

4
18 Happy New Year Sport 25m

Bundy says it is the first route put up in 2007 anywhere in the universe! Start as for the previous route to finsh up the next on!

FA: Bundy, 2007

5
18 * Jolly Good Fellow Sport 25m

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

FA: D.Dewar, 2001

6
17 * Hermione Sport 25m

Bolts chopped by would-be do gooder! Can still be done, but no first bolt or anchors.

FA: R.Young, 1998

7
19 ** Quirrell's Quarrell Sport 25m, 10

Good climbing with loads of bolts. Exciting finale.

Set by glen short

FA: glen short, Pam Short & john smoothy, 2015

8

3m R, incorporating a corner feature and some cruxy bits down low.

FA: M.Stacey & L McManus, 1988

9
21 ** Sound and Vision Sport 20m

Marked SAV. This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

10
21 * Dr Do Little Sport 15m

2m R. An easy romp to a tricky thin crux and low anchors.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

11
19 ** Little Triggers Sport 25m

Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

12
20 Change Junkies Sport 20m

1.5m R of LT. Half carrots, half fixed hangers. Good, wandering climbing.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

13
20 * Go Lotto Sport 22m

Marked GL. R of CJ. Ringbolts up through rooflets and a particularly hard move if you are short.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

14
21 * Starman Sport 25m

Between GL and the arete. A high first bolt you should stickclip. Then up through rooflet and the typical hard move to beautiful Bardens breaks trending R. Runout but safe.

FA: R.Young, 1998

15
22 ** Hang onto Yourself Sport 20m

The arete. You can start direct or traverse in from GL. Take care clipping third ring.

FA: R.Young, 1998

16
22 ** Lady Grinning Soul Sport 25m

Starts around the arete from HOTY. Stickclip the first bolt. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arete, eventually trending left to the arete and finishing up HOTY. Rebolted 2005.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

17

Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HOTY arete. Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof.

FA: M.Law, 1997

18
21 ** Lady Stardust Sport 21m

Start just R of HLSB, next to the steep gully. Careful to second bolt. Rebolted 2004.

FA: R. Young, A Prehn & M. Moorhead, 1983

19
17 Solvin Puzzle Sport 15m

A metre or so to the right of LS.

FA: F Pircher, 2013

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