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Description

Vertical climbing and easy grades.

Access issues inherited from Bardens Lookout

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

©

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * Monkey Girl Sport 18m

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

FA: P Mort, 2011

2
15 The Arrow and the Song Sport 26m, 9

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

FA: Niall Doherty, Warwick Williams, 2010

3
16 Karinya Sport 25m

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

4
18 Happy New Year Sport 25m

Bundy says it is the first route put up in 2007 anywhere in the universe! Start as for the previous route to finsh up the next on!

FA: Bundy, 2007

5
18 * Jolly Good Fellow Sport 25m

FA: D.Dewar, 2001

6
17 * Hermione Sport 25m

A Hawk lives in a cave on route. Its usually a Nankeen Kestrel.

The route is tagged and closed. Please give them their space and be careful when pulling ropes as a broken wing will mean a dead bird...and a dead bird will be disaster for us all. Take care - please!

FA: R.Young, 1998

7

3m R.

FA: M.Stacey,L McManus, 1988

8
20 ** Sound and Vision Sport 20m

This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

9
21 * Dr Do Little Sport 20m

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

10
19 ** Little Triggers Sport 25m

2.5 meters right of Dr Do Little. Thin start. Then through some overlaps

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

11
20 Change Junkies Sport 20m

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

12
20 * Go Lotto Sport 37m

Right of Charge Junkies (which is on carrots) Up through rooflets after a tricky move

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1982

13
20 * Starman Sport 25m

FA: R.Young, 1998

14
21 ** Hang onto Yourself Sport 20m

The arete.

Start: Start 2m L of the arete.

FA: R.Young, 1998

15
21 ** Lady Grinning Soul Sport 25m

Stick clip the 1st if you feel uncomfortable. Short wall, trend R under small roof, then up flakes 2m R of arete, eventually trending left to the arete and finishing up HoyT. Rebolted 23-12-2005.

Start: Start under the arete of HotY.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

16

Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof.

Start: Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HotY arete.

FA: M.Law, 1997

17
21 ** Lady Stardust Sport 22m

Rebolted 2004

Start: Start just R of HLSB.

FA: R. Young, A Prehn, M. Moorhead, 1983

18
17 Solvin Puzzle Sport 15m

A metre or so to the right of LS.

FA: F Pircher, 2013

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