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Description

A nice little cliff with some good faceclimbing and a few cracks very close to the car. Pack your bolt plates and a rack.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Drive past Lawson's Long Alley track head and old quarry (bush regeneration area)on Mt.York Rd. Park in small clearing above the old quarry. Cross road and head down gully ,marked by cairn, to the base of a small gully. Walk right (facing out) to the main blank wall, or head left to the immediately visible orange rock of Goat Buttress.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left side of gully (facing out) Routes from left to right

1
18 Petrophile Pulchella Mixed 15m, 4

The first climb on the left side(facing out)Start 4m left of G.O, up past 4 bolts and a distinct reachy crux. #2 and #3 cam for top to lower off anchors.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

2
19 * Goat's Overhead Mixed 20m, 5

Start: Near tree middle of the buttress. #3.5 friend and 4 carrots to roof, bolt on lip to chains.

FA: A.Farquar,Murphy,G.Williams, 1990

3

Start: 4m right of of GO. 3 BR to #4 Friend, move right to anchor at 3/4 height.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones, 1989

4
23 Intimidation Trad 18m

Start:Off teetering cairn into 'Steep' crack. 4m LEFT of Twisted Ash. All the way through top flake in roof. Bring 4 bolt plates. Belay carrots set 6mtrs back from top.

FA: A.Farquar, 1995

5
22 ** Twister Ash Trad 15m

Start: Left side of alcove, left of roof.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

6

Corner/roof right of Twisted Ash. Bring extra #3 & #4. Build belay before last mantle, walk off.

FA: Eric Butler, 2013

The next three routes are approached from the top of goat buttress. About 50 left (facing out) of goatbuttress in a honeycomb alcove with car size blocks nesting above. Move carefully past blocks to 3BB at top of wall. Rap to ledge.

7
20 Captain Oak Sport 14m

Start: From belay bolt, right arete.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

8
19 * Hammer Time Sport 12m

Start: From belay bolt. Straight up.

FA: B.Pearse,S.Pearse, 1991

9
18 * Wrestle the Rhino Sport 12m

Start: At belay bolt. Left, then straight up.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

Back to ground level, next three routes 50mtrs right of twister ash, traverse chossy little ledge or walk lower. Big lichen covered wall with crack (1st ascent details unknown) Can belay from block or ground.

10
18 * unnamed Sport 30m, 12

Line of carrots, pfh 90 degree hangers essential, some fiddly clips, up to DRB over top. best climbed as a top out (last route) from here its 2 min to car.

FFA: H Sutherland, 2013

11
21 lakes of fire Sport 25m, 12

Directly above belayers R.B, up to thin crux and lower off. A number 4 or 5 cam would make it less exciting.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

12
16 * Fall into the sea Sport 25m, 12

stiff start start right of crack (1st ascentionist unknown?) one carrot to line of FH's & lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Back to right side of gully (facing out) routes right to left

13

The first route this side of gully, Heel hook roof then arette, 4BR to DBB.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

14
22 * Cranky Cat Trad 12m

Start: The right arete on the main wall.

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

15
22 Pituitary Dwarf Trad 15m

Start: As for RBS to break. Straight up.

FA: A.Farquar, 1994

16

Start: 2m right of CC. Traverse right to arete and up.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones,B.Pearse, 1989

17
22 * Cat Scratch Fever Trad 15m

Start: Left again.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones, 1989

18

Start: Near small (?) tree.

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

19
22 * Endotoxic Shock Trad 15m

Start: Thin crack right again.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones,B.Pearse, 1989

20
25 Simon's Route Sport 15m

FA: B.Pearse, 1991

21
25 Anaphylaxis Trad 15m

Start: Weakness left of banksia.

FA: A.Farquar, 1991

22
27 Slimey Limeys Sport 15m

Start: Left of DFD.

23
22 ** Die, Fox, Die Trad 15m

Small hands crack splitting the face, quite unique, great jamming and locking. Tree anchor/loweroff can be retrieved easily on way back up track.

FA: M.Baker, 1990

24

Start: Corner left end of the wall.

FA: A.Farquar, 1989

25
17 * Green Eggs and Ham Trad 14m

Start: Middle of the wall. Left of previous climb.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

26
21 Beepers and Biters Trad 15m

Start: Undercut left of GE&H. Dyno first move.

FA: A.Farquar,B.Pearse, 1989

27
17 Sodom Trad 15m

Start: 20m left of GE&H. Slab. Right hand route.

FA: A.Jones,A.Farquar, 1989

28
20 Gomorrah Trad 15m

Start: 2m left again.

FA: A.Jones,G.Williams, 1991

29
14 Whippet Overboard Trad 10m

Start: Left end of the slab.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

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