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Table of contents

1. The Noisy Place 32 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.237239, -33.576344

Description:© (mjw)

A nice little cliff with some good faceclimbing and a few cracks very close to the car. Pack your bolt plates and a rack.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (mjw)

Drive down Mt York road and past Lawson's Long Alley track head, park opposite an old quarry that is on the right. Walk along road towards Mt York, At the apex of the corner take note of the power pole, approximately 30m past the power pole you should see a rusty barrel just off the left side of the road. Walk into the bush here directly towards the cliff, keep an eye out for a small rock overhang/cliff on your right, follow obvious gulley and rock cairns down to bottom of cliff. Walk right (facing out) to the main blank wall, or head left to the immediately visible orange rock of Goat Buttress.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left side of gully (facing out) Routes from left to right

1 Petrophile Pulchella

The first climb on the left side(facing out)Start 4m left of G.O, up past 4 bolts and a distinct reachy crux. #2 and #3 cam for top to lower off anchors.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

18 Mixed 15m, 4
2 * Goat's Overhead

Start: Near tree middle of the buttress. #3.5 friend and 5 bolts to roof, bolt on lip to chains. Rebolted June 2014

FA: A.Farquar,Murphy,G.Williams, 1990

19 Mixed 20m, 5
3 *** Kneely There

Clip bolt from twin pockets. Hard start leads to cam break. #0.5 Then straight up wall passing 5 more bolts and #2 cam to double ring loweroff. Best route on the wall

FFA: @evanwells, 2015

20 Trad 15m
4 My Cat's Got a Fractured Pelvis

Start: 4m right of of GO. 3 BR to #4 Friend, move right to anchor at 3/4 height.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones, 1989

18 Mixed 15m, 3
5 Intimidation

Start:Off teetering cairn into 'Steep' crack. 4m LEFT of Twisted Ash. All the way through top flake in roof. Bring 4 bolt plates. Belay carrots set 6mtrs back from top.

FA: A.Farquar, 1995

23 Trad 18m
6 ** Twister Ash

Start: Left side of alcove, left of roof.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

22 Trad 15m
7 * La dura dura dura dura dura

Corner/roof right of Twisted Ash. Bring extra #3 & #4. Build belay before last mantle, walk off.

FA: Eric Butler, 2013

18 Trad 20m

The next three routes are approached from the top of goat buttress. About 50 left (facing out) of goatbuttress in a honeycomb alcove with car size blocks nesting above. Move carefully past blocks to 3BB at top of wall. Rap to ledge.

8 Captain Oak

Start: From belay bolt, right arete.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

20 Sport 14m
9 * Hammer Time

Start: From belay bolt. Straight up.

FA: B.Pearse,S.Pearse, 1991

19 Sport 12m
10 * Wrestle the Rhino

Start: At belay bolt. Left, then straight up.

FA: F.Yule,P.Tansley, 1991

18 Sport 12m

Back to ground level, next three routes 50mtrs right of twister ash, traverse chossy little ledge or walk lower. Big lichen covered wall with crack (1st ascent details unknown) Can belay from block or ground.

11 * unnamed

Line of carrots, pfh 90 degree hangers essential, some fiddly clips, up to DRB over top. best climbed as a top out (last route) from here its 2 min to car.

FFA: H Sutherland, 2013

18 Sport 30m, 12
12 lakes of fire

Line of carrots directly above belayers R.B, up to thin crux (FH) and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

21 Sport 25m, 13
13 Ommitment Compassion Comradery

Continuation of crack in middle of wall to top. Passing two carrots and a good horizontal (med cams) near top. Tree anchor set 10m back hence 50m route length.

Mixed 50m, 2
14 * Fall into the sea

stiff start start right of crack (1st ascentionist unknown?) one carrot to line of FH's & lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

16 Sport 25m, 12

Back to right side of gully (facing out) routes right to left

15 * Blue Blistering Barnacles

The first route this side of gully, Heel hook roof then arette, 4BR to DBB.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

21 Sport 15m
16 * Cranky Cat

Start: The right arete on the main wall.

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

22 Trad 12m
17 Pituitary Dwarf

Start: As for RBS to break. Straight up.

FA: A.Farquar, 1994

22 Trad 15m
18 Randy Budgie Syndrome

Start: 2m right of CC. Traverse right to arete and up.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones,B.Pearse, 1989

21 Trad 12m
19 * Cat Scratch Fever

Start: Left again. Med wire and small cam to carrots w FH at crux.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones, 1989

22 Trad 15m
20 * Chilled Puppy Complex

Excellent moves, distinct crux. Hard committing start (or stick clip) and past 4 FHs to anchor over top.This is still a mixed route and requires medium size cams. Rebolted June 2014

FA: A.Farquar, 1990

24 Mixed 15m, 4
21 ** Doigte le trou

Line of u's to lower off , L of CPC. Technical

Set by E. Wells

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

24 Sport 10m, 4
22 * Endotoxic Shock

Start: Thin crack right again.

FA: A.Farquar,A.Jones,B.Pearse, 1989

22 Trad 15m
23 Simon's Route

FA: B.Pearse, 1991

25 Sport 15m
24 Anaphylaxis

Start: Weakness left of banksia.

FA: A.Farquar, 1991

25 Trad 15m
25 Slimey Limeys

Start: Right of DFD. 2 carrots x 2 FH's. Did it ever go clean?!

27 Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 ** Die, Fox, Die

Small hands crack splitting the face, quite unique, great jamming and locking. Tree anchor/loweroff can be retrieved easily on way back up track.

FA: M.Baker, 1990

22 Trad 15m
27 * The Crunched Dog and the Ducati

Start: Corner left end of the wall.

FA: A.Farquar, 1989

14 Trad 15m
28 * Green Eggs and Ham

Start: Middle of the wall. Left of previous climb.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

17 Trad 14m
29 Beepers and Biters

Start: Undercut left of GE&H. Dyno first move.

FA: A.Farquar,B.Pearse, 1989

21 Trad 15m
30 Sodom

Start: 20m left of GE&H. Slab. Right hand route.

FA: A.Jones,A.Farquar, 1989

17 Trad 15m
31 Gomorrah

Start: 2m left again.

FA: A.Jones,G.Williams, 1991

20 Trad 15m
32 Whippet Overboard

Start: Left end of the slab.

FA: G.Williams,A.Farquar, 1990

14 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 * The Crunched Dog and the Ducati Trad 15m
Whippet Overboard Trad 10m
16 * Fall into the sea Sport 25m, 12
17 * Green Eggs and Ham Trad 14m
Sodom Trad 15m
18 * La dura dura dura dura dura Trad 20m
My Cat's Got a Fractured Pelvis Mixed 15m, 3
Petrophile Pulchella Mixed 15m, 4
* Wrestle the Rhino Sport 12m
* unnamed Sport 30m, 12
19 * Goat's Overhead Mixed 20m, 5
* Hammer Time Sport 12m
20 Captain Oak Sport 14m
Gomorrah Trad 15m
*** Kneely There Trad 15m
21 Beepers and Biters Trad 15m
* Blue Blistering Barnacles Sport 15m
Randy Budgie Syndrome Trad 12m
lakes of fire Sport 25m, 13
22 * Cat Scratch Fever Trad 15m
* Cranky Cat Trad 12m
** Die, Fox, Die Trad 15m
* Endotoxic Shock Trad 15m
Pituitary Dwarf Trad 15m
** Twister Ash Trad 15m
23 Intimidation Trad 18m
24 * Chilled Puppy Complex Mixed 15m, 4
** Doigte le trou Sport 10m, 4
25 Anaphylaxis Trad 15m
Simon's Route Sport 15m
27 Slimey Limeys Sport 15m, 4
? Ommitment Compassion Comradery Mixed 50m, 2