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The furthest wall on Sunnyside.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


About 10 min walk from Sunnyside proper - stay high and follow the cliffline.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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start as for S.W.C. and trend left and up through steepness on jugs. Or walk to ledge and start at 2nd bolt

FA: lloyd wishart, 22 Aug 2015

A steep and pumpy climb that is better than it looks, although it might need a brush in places after rain. The finish can be a little intimidating the first time.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

Shared Start. Hard move at the 2nd bolt leads to a nice mid height crux on good rock, then join Snout With Clout at its last bolt.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 5 Jun 2010

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

In public service parlance, an ‘outside emergency’. Shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness. Steep and sustained on generally good holds. To avoid drag, clip the rightmost of the 3 third bolts.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

A long way R of the previous routes on orange slabby wall. Thin and difficult first half with a hard clip, then a pleasant slab.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 14 Jun 2010

Right side of the slabby wall. A hard move at the start, then a sustained top half

FFA: lloyd wishart, 17 Jul 2010


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