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Description

The furthest wall on Sunnyside.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

About 10 min walk from Sunnyside proper - stay high and follow the cliffline.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Snout with Clout Sport 18m, 9

A steep and pumpy climb that is better than it looks, although it might need a brush in places after rain. The finish can be a little intimidating the first time.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

2
27 * Spouting Outing Sport 15m, 8

Shared Start. Hard move at the 2nd bolt leads to a nice mid height crux on good rock, then join Snout With Clout at its last bolt.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

3
30 ** Krout Kream Sport 15m, 8

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

4
29 *** Code Brown Sport 18m, 8

In public service parlance, an ‘outside emergency’. Shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness. Steep and sustained on generally good holds. To avoid drag, clip the rightmost of the 3 third bolts.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

5
23 * Grouted Trout Sport 18m, 8

A long way R of the previous routes on orange slabby wall. Thin and difficult first half with a hard clip, then a pleasant slab.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

6
23 * Crouton Ragout Sport 20m, 8

Right side of the slabby wall. A hard move at the start, then a sustained top half

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010