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Description:

Have the access issues been resolved? Isn't this private property?

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Ramadhan

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams,

11
Unknown 15m
2 Spit the Dog

FA: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams,

10
Unknown 15m
3 Salamay, Dalamay, Adonay
13
Unknown 18m
4 The Enterprise
18
Unknown 19m
5 Klingons
17
Unknown 18m
6 Orthanc
19
Unknown 20m
7 Orthanc Direct
19
Unknown 18m
8 Kirk
16
Unknown 19m
9 Spock
18
Unknown 22m
10 Meanwhile
15
Unknown 20m
11 Usul
22
Unknown 22m
12 I'm Still Thinking
19
Unknown 22m
13 Kinstone Cops
12
Unknown 26m
14 About This Climb
17
Unknown 26m
15 Teleport Now!
21
Unknown 23m
16 ** X-Wing

FA: Tony Williams,

23
Unknown 25m
17 Avon
22
Unknown 25m
18 Rassilon
18 M1
Aid 22m
19 ** The Tardis

Formerly the aid route Rassilon. Starts at Tardis paint.4 RB's straight up to lower offs. Sharp rock through crux with technical moves.

FA: Tony Williams, 2005

21
Unknown 13m
20 Daygobar System
20
Unknown 23m
21 I, Robot
22
Unknown 26m
22 Shai hulud
21
Unknown 28m
23 Quantum Leap
21
Unknown 18m
24 Quantum Leap Direct

Makes Quantum Leap original obsolete. Tree is gone so a direct start is now possible. Hard overhung start to flakey rock. 4 RB's to lower offs rebolted 6/5/05.

FA: Tony Williams, 2005

20
Unknown 15m
25 K9
20
Unknown 28m
26 Climb it Again, Sam
18
Unknown 30m
27 Louis, I Think This is the Start of a Beautiful Friendship
20
Unknown 29m
28 Of All the Tea Rooms in All the Towns in All the World, She Had to Walk into Mine
18
Unknown 28m
29 Stuff Dreams Are Made Of
13
Unknown 29m
30 ** Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 1)

FA: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam,

17
Unknown 23m
31 Plas-Y-Cymro (pitch 2)

FA: Tony Williams,

18
Unknown 10m

Open trips

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