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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Ethel Direct Sport 15m

Hard start of the platform, or link in from Harpo. Watch that death block about half way up.

2

Ahh, please no..

Start: Off the small ledge above where the path leaves the Zig Zag.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

3
17 Harpo Sport 20m

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

4
19 Grouchie Sport 18m

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

5
20 Just Go For It Unknown 20m
6
20 Unknown 20 Unknown 10m

In Gully behind sector i. Rings.

FA: Stumpy

7
14 Kcabyal Kcarc Unknown 10m
8
13 Smearing Sucks Unknown 12m
9
10 Stairway to Heaven Unknown 12m
11
14 Something Sinister Unknown 14m
12
21 Blasphemy Unknown 23m
13
7 * Brass Monkey Trad 25m

Start: This area is about 50m past Grouchie.

FA: G.Owens,Daly,Smith, 2000

14
14 * Denali Blaster Trad 35m

easy slab

FA: J.Boyton, 1985

15
10 R Deceptor Trad 40m

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 2000

16
14 Rickapoodle Arete Trad 44m

FA: G.Owens,J.Lamb, 1973

17
14 Grigris, Hmmmmm Unknown 30m
18
9 * Rickapoodle Trad 30m

FA: J.Wilson,G.Owens, 2000

19
16 ** Giggles Trad 50m

FA: W.King,S.Burns, 1989

20
19 Wazzakstan Unknown 30m

FA: Short and Smoothy

21
23 R * Toads Trad 43m

Boulder problem start then intimidating groove

FA: K.carrigan,A.Penney, 1978

22
19 *** Taipan Trad 40m

1:25m up the gully to ledge step out right onto wall and follow thin crack to ledge, abseil anchor here 2:15m up the short steep crack on right to top

FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas, 1975

23
19 *** Taipan pitch 1 Trad 25m
24
16 ** Taipan Variant Trad 20m

the overhang crack to the left of belay

25
18 ** Fer De Lance Trad 30m

FA: K.Bell,P.Giles, 1975

26
21 Unknown 1 Unknown 15m
27
21 Catweazel Trad 15m

The arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

28
22 Monty Madness Sport 10m

squeezed in there

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

29
21 Army Exercises Trad 20m

Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan' start. Head left.

FA: W.King, 1990

30
23 * Wagget & Wegnut Trad 15m

Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.

FA: T.Wegnut, 1995

31
12 Groovie Trad 30m

Ferny chimney!

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson, 1968

32
15 R Frottage Wall Trad 12m

They dreamt of drills didnt they?

FA: T.Hunt,D.Eldridge, 1984

33
22 Possession Trad 35m

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt,A.Renney, 2000

34
23 Truckstop Lawyers Sport 20m

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

35

FA: Ivan and Bob

36
6 Solo Chimney Unknown 45m
37
8 Semi-Solo Unknown 35m
38
7 Rumdoodle Unknown 45m
39
11 Walkabout Unknown 35m
40
5 The Land of Nod Unknown 35m
41
13 Spaghetti Bolognaise Unknown 43m
42
21 The Hounds of Hades Unknown 20m
43
16 Slunt Unknown 20m
44
9 Indecision Unknown 32m
45
17 ** Black Betty Trad 20m

FA: Ward,Leigh, 1988

46
14 R Penguins on Safari Trad 35m

FA: Hunt,Robbins,Eldridge, 1984

47
18 R ** Bam Ba Lamb Trad 40m

FA: Leigh Ward, 1988

48
12 Winkle Trad 41m

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

49
16 * Penguin Pete Trad 20m

FA: T.Hunt, 2000

50
16 * Van Trad 44m

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

51
14 * Rip Trad 20m

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

52
18 Lincoln's Mystery Route Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown Climb. Line of new carrots.

53
9 I Did It For Love Mixed 10m, 1

Awesome old school route, use anchors for SF!

FFA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

FA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

54
21 SF Sport 12m

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

55
21 * Urako Sport 12m

quite strenuous

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

56
22 Fashion TV Sport 14m

go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako.

FA: 2006

57
20 * Make It Nylons Trad 20m

start up urako and traverse towards arete, fashion tv is essentially a rebolted version of this route

FA: Smoothy,Lumsden,McManus, 1988

58
11 * The Mixture Trad 47m

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 1968

59
21 ** The Mighty Quinn Sport 15m

an excellent extension to dress rehearsal rag

FA: Ivan Valenta, Rob Dun

60

Optimistic Project ??

61

Desperate for 17.

62
20 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag Sport 40m
  1. 15m (17) Solid at the grade, rising traverse past the carrots, a few medium wires available but not necessary. Cracking pitch.

  2. 20m (21)

63

Start: As for DRR to ledge then take the left line.

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

64
23 * Disaster Area Sport 15m

Start: Marked IRA.

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1983

65
16 * Dead Milkmen Trad 15m

FA: W.King,I.Collins, 1989

66
16 R Fairy Tales Trad 13m

Start: Lefthand route on the small wall. Has an extention all the way to the top (21).Take Care.

67
68
15 Unknown 2 Unknown 10m
69
24 * Goodie Gumdrops Unknown 20m
70
18 * Amok Time Unknown 20m
71
18 Sidewinder Unknown 30m
72
9 Revolt Unknown 40m
73
10 The Carpenter Unknown 25m
74
6 The Walrus Unknown 30m
75
14 Crack to Nowhere Unknown 12m
76
16 Upheaval Unknown 33m
77
14 Twilight Unknown 20m

On 'S' Wall. Head right on 3 bolts to arete. Go up arete on right side on rings to rap point.

FA: 2006

78
17 S Unknown 35m
79
7 Perfidious Rex Unknown 28m
80
19 *** Black Bart Trad 40m

Start: 'Arete' to the right of orange corner.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

81
17 * Bumflute Trad 30m

Start as BB, then left past a few hangers and single carrot up high.

FA: G Short, P Mort

82
22 R Pacemaker Trad 40m

Start: The orange corner.

FFA: K.Bell,H.Luxford.M.Law, 1975

83
16 * Stuffed Trad 66m

Start: Corner below roofs 10m left of Pacemaker.

  1. 22m (16) Block to crack then left into cave. Chimney to bollard.

  2. 22m (-) Chimney and corner to arete and belay ledge.

  3. 22m (-) Up to traverse line, right to easy corner.

FA: B.Price,G.Owens, 1972

84
19 Sadhu Rum Unknown 30m

Hard move off ground then brackets and bolts all the way up wall.

85

Start: As for 'Stuffed' but right under the roof. Up the wall and around the corner to horizontal break. Rope drag! Finishes as for Pacemaker.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1989

86
20 Stuffed Direct Start Unknown 4m
87
22 * Pumping Chickens Trad 20m

Start: 5m left of 'Stuffed'.Through roof to ledge and bollard.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

88
21 * Geezer Pleaser Sport 30m

FA: Rob Dun, Ivan Valenta

89
15 ** Just for Fun Trad 50m

Start: As for 'Honey Dip'.

  1. 30m (15) Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip', stem across gap.Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave.Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)

  2. 20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1995

90
91
13 *** Honey Dip Mixed 30m, 1

Start under roof up slab to bouldery move up through roof to single carrot, gear thereafter. Follow the beautiful crack up to the little rooflet (build a cam nest) then traverse left across and up to ledge to chain.

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1973

92
25 * The Racer's Edge Sport 30m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

93

Rebolted. New bolts at start seem to be in wrong places..

94
21 *** Shakes and Flakes Sport 30m

Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much

FA: M.Law, M.Johnson, 1979

95
23 ** Let's Nail God Sport 30m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

96
23 ** Tips for Troubadours Sport 30m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

97
14 Rainy Day Saturday Trad 60m

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

98
18 *** Turkish Delight Trad 60m

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

99
22 ** Cheap Dive Sport 40m

Re-bolted,

FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

100
22 Cheap Skate Sport
101
17 Demeresque Trad 74m

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

102
14 No Pants Trad 76m

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

103
13 Meanderthal Trad 43m

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

104
19 * Mr Poopypants Unknown 25m

Hard first moves hard. 19

105
18 327 Trad 35m

To groove and up . . .

Start: Start at cairn.

FA: Mortimer / King, 1990

106
19 Unknown left of 327 Unknown 25m

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

107
18 Baldaquin Trad 35m

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

108
15 Hey Jude Trad 30m

Start: Start at short chimney

FA: Bevan / Owens, 1971

109
20 A Unknown 12m

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

110
? B Unknown 12m

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

111

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac

FA: Unknown, 2000

113
20 Knot the Mumma Trad 15m
114
17 Birdsnest Soup Trad 30m

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

115
23 ** Bad Moon Rising Trad 50m
116
22 ** optimisation Sport 13m, 6

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012

117
25 * Red Dwarf Sport 13m, 7

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

118
16 BR Trad 8m
119

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

120
9 Fandooglie Trad 45m

Another chimney

121
15 Unknown Trad 12m
122
21 ** Nameless! Trad 15m

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