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Zig Zag 133 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 28m
  • Style: Trad,? and other styles
  • Favorites: 6
  • Ascents: 1,826

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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
121Static Area Cliff Trad,Sport 6431m
122Catch the Wind Area Cliff Trad,Sport 76830m

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Ethel The Aardvark Goes Quantity Surveying

Ahh, please no..

Start: Off the small ledge above where the path leaves the Zig Zag.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

17
Trad 15m
2 Harpo

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

17
Sport 20m
3 Grouchie

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

19
Sport 18m
4 Just Go For It
20
Unknown 20m
5 Unknown 20

In Gully behind sector i. Rings.

FA: Stumpy ,

20
Unknown 10m
6 Kcabyal Kcarc
14
Unknown 10m
7 Smearing Sucks
13
Unknown 12m
8 Stairway to Heaven
10
Unknown 12m
9 Sperm Covered Punk Bitches
19
Unknown 12m
10 Something Sinister
14
Unknown 14m
11 Blasphemy
21
Unknown 23m
12 * Brass Monkey

Start: This area is about 50m past Grouchie.

FA: G.Owens,Daly,Smith, 2000

7
Trad 25m
13 * Denali Blaster

The first route that was denied rebolting. FA has since relented.

FA: J.Boyton, 1985

14
Trad 35m
14 Deceptor

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 2000

10 R
Trad 40m
15 Rickapoodle Arete

Goes 'free' at 14!

FA: G.Owens,J.Lamb, 1973

13 M2
Aid 44m
16 Grigris, Hmmmmm
14
Unknown 30m
17 * Rickapoodle

FA: J.Wilson,G.Owens, 2000

9
Trad 30m
18 ** Giggles

FA: W.King,S.Burns, 1989

16
Trad 50m
19 Wazzakstan

FA: Short and Smoothy,

19
Unknown 30m
20 * Toads

Needs rebolting - like everything at Zig Zag!

FA: K.carrigan,A.Penney, 1978

23 R
Trad 43m
21 *** Taipan

FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas, 1975

19
Trad 40m
22 ** Taipan pitch 1
17
Unknown 25m
23 ** Taipan Variant
16
Unknown 20m
24 ** Fer De Lance

FA: K.Bell,P.Giles, 1975

18
Trad 30m
25 Unknown 1
21
Unknown 15m
26 * Catweazel

The arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

21
Trad 15m
27 Monty Madness

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

22
Sport 10m
28 Army Exercises

Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan' start. Head left.

FA: W.King, 1990

21
Trad 20m
29 * Wagget & Wegnut

Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.

FA: T.Wegnut, 1995

23
Trad 15m
30 Groovie

Ferny chimney!

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson, 1968

12
Trad 30m
31 Frottage Wall

They dreamt of drills didnt they?

FA: T.Hunt,D.Eldridge, 1984

15 R
Trad 12m
32 Possession

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt,A.Renney, 2000

22
Trad 35m
33 Truckstop Lawyers

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

23
Sport 20m
34 Truckstop Lawyers Variant

FA: Ivan and Bob,

19
Unknown 20m
35 Solo Chimney
6
Unknown 45m
36 Semi-Solo
8
Unknown 35m
37 Rumdoodle
7
Unknown 45m
38 Walkabout
11
Unknown 35m
39 The Land of Nod
5
Unknown 35m
40 Spaghetti Bolognaise
13
Unknown 43m
41 The Hounds of Hades
21
Unknown 20m
42 Slunt
16
Unknown 20m
43 Indecision
9
Unknown 32m
44 * Black Betty

FA: Ward,Leigh, 1988

17
Trad 20m
45 Penguins on Safari

FA: Hunt,Robbins,Eldridge, 1984

14 R
Trad 35m
46 ** Bam Ba Lamb

FA: Leigh Ward, 1988

18 R
Trad 40m
47 Winkle

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

12
Trad 41m
48 * Penguin Pete

FA: T.Hunt, 2000

16
Trad 20m
49 ** Van

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

16
Trad 44m
50 * Rip

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

14
Trad 20m
51 Lincoln's Mystery Route

FA: Unknown Climb. Line of new carrots.,

18
Unknown 20m
52 I Did It For Love

Awesome old school route, use anchors for SF!

FFA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

FA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

9
Mixed 10m , 1
53 SF

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

21
Sport 12m
54 * Urako

Rebolted 2006.

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

21
Sport 12m
55 * Fashion TV

go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako.

FA: , 2006

22
Sport 14m
56 * Make It Nylons

start up urako and traverse towards arete, fashion tv is essentially a rebolted version of this route

FA: Smoothy,Lumsden,McManus, 1988

20
Trad 20m
57 * The Mixture

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 1968

11
Trad 47m
58 ** The Mighty Quinn

FA: Ivan Valenta, Rob Dun,

21
Sport 15m
59 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch

Desperate for 17.

17
Sport 10m
60 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag
  1. 15m (17) Solid at the grade, rising traverse past the carrots, a few medium wires available but not necessary. Cracking pitch.

  2. 20m (21)

20
Sport 40m
61 Destruction of Army Group Centre

Start: As for DRR to ledge then take the left line.

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

23 R
Trad 20m
62 * Disaster Area

Start: Marked IRA.

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1983

23
Trad 15m
63 * Dead Milkmen

FA: W.King,I.Collins, 1989

16
Trad 15m
64 Fairy Tales

Start: Lefthand route on the small wall. Has an extention all the way to the top (21).Take Care.

16 R
Trad 13m
65 Fairy Tales Direct Finish
21
Unknown 21m
66 Unknown 2
15
Unknown 10m
67 * Goodie Gumdrops
24
Unknown 20m
68 * Amok Time
18
Unknown 20m
69 Sidewinder
18
Unknown 30m
70 Revolt
9
Unknown 40m
71 The Carpenter
10
Unknown 25m
72 The Walrus
6
Unknown 30m
73 Crack to Nowhere
14
Unknown 12m
74 Upheaval
16
Unknown 33m
75 Twilight

On 'S' Wall. Head right on 3 bolts to arete. Go up arete on right side on rings to rap point.

FA: , 2006

14
Unknown 20m
76 S
17
Unknown 35m
77 Perfidious Rex
7
Unknown 28m
78 *** Black Bart

Start: 'Arete' to the right of orange corner.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

19
Trad 40m
79 * Bumflute

actual climb name is 'Bumflute'

FA: G Short, P Mort,

17
Unknown 30m
80 Peacemaker

Start: The orange corner.

FFA: K.Bell,H.Luxford.M.Law, 1975

22 R
Trad 40m
81 * Stuffed

Start: Corner below roofs 10m left of Pacemaker.

  1. 22m (16) Block to crack then left into cave. Chimney to bollard.

  2. 22m (-) Chimney and corner to arete and belay ledge.

  3. 22m (-) Up to traverse line, right to easy corner.

FA: B.Price,G.Owens, 1972

16
Trad 66m
82 Sadhu Rum

Hard move off ground then brackets and bolts all the way up wall.

19
Unknown 30m
83 Whale Oil Beef Hooked

Start: As for 'Stuffed' but right under the roof. Up the wall and around the corner to horizontal break. Rope drag! Finishes as for Pacemaker.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1989

22
Trad 50m
84 Stuffed Direct Start
20
Unknown 4m
85 * Pumping Chickens

Start: 5m left of 'Stuffed'.Through roof to ledge and bollard.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

22
Trad 20m
86 * Geezer Pleaser

FA: Rob Dun, Ivan Valenta,

21
Sport 30m
87 ** Just for Fun

Start: As for 'Honey Dip'.

  1. 30m (15) Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip', stem across gap.Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave.Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)

  2. 20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1995

15
Trad 50m
88 Just for Fun - pitch 1
15
Sport 30m
89 *** Honey Dip

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1973

13
Trad 65m
90 * The Racer's Edge

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

25
Sport 30m
91 The Racer's Edge Direct Finish
25
Unknown 30m
92 *** Shakes and Flakes

Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much

FA: M.Law, M.Johnson, 1979

21
Sport 30m
93 ** Let's Nail God

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

23
Sport 30m
94 ** Tips for Troubadours

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

23
Sport 30m
95 Rainy Day Saturday

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

14
Trad 60m
96 *** Turkish Delight

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

18
Trad 60m
97 ** Cheap Dive

Re-bolted,

FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

22
Sport 40m
98 Cheap Skate
22
Sport
99 Demeresque

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

17
Trad 74m
100 No Pants

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

14
Trad 76m
101 Meanderthal

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

13
Trad 43m
102 * Mr Poopypants

First moves are hard. 19 as per Blueys Guide. Definitely NOT 18 or 16 as claimed elsewhere.

19
Unknown 25m
103 327

To groove and up . . .

Start: Start at cairn.

FA: Mortimer / King, 1990

18
Trad 35m
104 Unknown left of 327

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

19
Unknown 25m
105 Baldaquin

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

18
Trad 35m
106 Hey Jude

Start: Start at short chimney

FA: Bevan / Owens, 1971

15
Trad 30m
107 A

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

20
Unknown 12m
108 B

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

?
Unknown 12m
109 * Transcendental Meditation
22
Trad 30m
110 Knot the Mumma
20
Trad 15m
111 Birdsnest Soup

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

17
Trad 30m
112 ** Bad Moon Rising
23
Trad 50m
113 ** optimisation

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012

22
Sport 13m , 6
114 * Red Dwarf

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

25
Sport 13m , 7
115 Fandooglie

Another chimney

9
Trad 45m
116 * Bloody . . . , Nice?! : Project

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac,

FA: Unknown, 2000

X
Trad
117 BR
16
Trad 8m
118 Merchant of Nightmares: Project

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

Trad
119 Unknown
15
Trad 12m
120 ** Nameless!
21
Trad 15m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.