Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Ethel The Aardvark Goes Quantity Surveying
Ahh, please no..
Start: Off the small ledge above where the path leaves the Zig Zag .
FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985
17
Trad 15m
2
Harpo
FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999
17
Sport 20m
3
Grouchie
FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999
19
Sport 18m
4
Just Go For It
20
Unknown 20m
5
Unknown 20
In Gully behind sector i. Rings.
FA: Stumpy ,
20
Unknown 10m
6
Kcabyal Kcarc
14
Unknown 10m
7
Smearing Sucks
13
Unknown 12m
8
Stairway to Heaven
10
Unknown 12m
9
Sperm Covered Punk Bitches
19
Unknown 12m
10
Something Sinister
14
Unknown 14m
11
Blasphemy
21
Unknown 23m
12
Brass Monkey
Start: This area is about 50m past Grouchie .
FA: G.Owens,Daly,Smith, 2000
7
Trad 25m
13
Denali Blaster
The first route that was denied rebolting. FA has since relented.
FA: J.Boyton, 1985
14
Trad 35m
14
Deceptor
FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 2000
10 R
Trad 40m
15
Rickapoodle Arete
Goes 'free' at 14!
FA: G.Owens,J.Lamb, 1973
13 M2
Aid 44m
16
Grigris, Hmmmmm
14
Unknown 30m
17
Rickapoodle
FA: J.Wilson,G.Owens, 2000
9
Trad 30m
18
Giggles
FA: W.King,S.Burns, 1989
16
Trad 50m
19
Wazzakstan
FA: Short and Smoothy,
19
Unknown 30m
20
Toads
Needs rebolting - like everything at Zig Zag!
FA: K.carrigan,A.Penney, 1978
23 R
Trad 43m
21
Taipan
FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas, 1975
19
Trad 40m
22
Taipan pitch 1
17
Unknown 25m
23
Taipan Variant
16
Unknown 20m
24
Fer De Lance
FA: K.Bell,P.Giles, 1975
18
Trad 30m
25
Unknown 1
21
Unknown 15m
26
Catweazel
The arete.
FA: J.Smoothy, 1985
21
Trad 15m
27
Monty Madness
FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,
22
Sport 10m
28
Army Exercises
Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan ' start. Head left.
FA: W.King, 1990
21
Trad 20m
29
Wagget & Wegnut
Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.
FA: T.Wegnut, 1995
23
Trad 15m
30
Groovie
Ferny chimney!
FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson, 1968
12
Trad 30m
31
Frottage Wall
They dreamt of drills didnt they?
FA: T.Hunt,D.Eldridge, 1984
15 R
Trad 12m
32
Possession
FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt,A.Renney, 2000
22
Trad 35m
33
Truckstop Lawyers
FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,
23
Sport 20m
34
Truckstop Lawyers Variant
FA: Ivan and Bob,
19
Unknown 20m
35
Solo Chimney
6
Unknown 45m
36
Semi-Solo
8
Unknown 35m
37
Rumdoodle
7
Unknown 45m
38
Walkabout
11
Unknown 35m
39
The Land of Nod
5
Unknown 35m
40
Spaghetti Bolognaise
13
Unknown 43m
41
The Hounds of Hades
21
Unknown 20m
42
Slunt
16
Unknown 20m
43
Indecision
9
Unknown 32m
44
Black Betty
FA: Ward,Leigh, 1988
17
Trad 20m
45
Penguins on Safari
FA: Hunt,Robbins,Eldridge, 1984
14 R
Trad 35m
46
Bam Ba Lamb
FA: Leigh Ward, 1988
18 R
Trad 40m
47
Winkle
FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972
12
Trad 41m
48
Penguin Pete
FA: T.Hunt, 2000
16
Trad 20m
49
Van
FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972
16
Trad 44m
50
Rip
FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972
14
Trad 20m
51
Lincoln's Mystery Route
FA: Unknown Climb. Line of new carrots.,
18
Unknown 20m
52
I Did It For Love
Awesome old school route, use anchors for SF!
FFA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012
FA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012
9
Mixed 10m
, 1
53
SF
Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.
21
Sport 12m
54
Urako
Rebolted 2006.
FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982
21
Sport 12m
55
Fashion TV
go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako .
FA: , 2006
22
Sport 14m
56
Make It Nylons
start up urako and traverse towards arete,
fashion tv is essentially a rebolted version of this route
FA: Smoothy,Lumsden,McManus, 1988
20
Trad 20m
57
The Mixture
Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.
FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 1968
11
Trad 47m
58
The Mighty Quinn
FA: Ivan Valenta, Rob Dun,
21
Sport 15m
59
Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch
Desperate for 17.
17
Sport 10m
60
Dress Rehearsal Rag
15m (17) Solid at the grade, rising traverse past the carrots, a few medium wires available but not necessary. Cracking pitch.
20m (21)
20
Sport 40m
61
Destruction of Army Group Centre
Start: As for DRR to ledge then take the left line.
FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982
23 R
Trad 20m
62
Disaster Area
Start: Marked IRA.
FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1983
23
Trad 15m
63
Dead Milkmen
FA: W.King,I.Collins, 1989
16
Trad 15m
64
Fairy Tales
Start: Lefthand route on the small wall. Has an extention all the way to the top (21).Take Care.
16 R
Trad 13m
65
Fairy Tales Direct Finish
21
Unknown 21m
66
Unknown 2
15
Unknown 10m
67
Goodie Gumdrops
24
Unknown 20m
68
Amok Time
18
Unknown 20m
69
Sidewinder
18
Unknown 30m
70
Revolt
9
Unknown 40m
71
The Carpenter
10
Unknown 25m
72
The Walrus
6
Unknown 30m
73
Crack to Nowhere
14
Unknown 12m
74
Upheaval
16
Unknown 33m
75
Twilight
On 'S ' Wall. Head right on 3 bolts to arete. Go up arete on right side on rings to rap point.
FA: , 2006
14
Unknown 20m
76
S
17
Unknown 35m
77
Perfidious Rex
7
Unknown 28m
78
Black Bart
Start: 'Arete' to the right of orange corner.
FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985
19
Trad 40m
79
Bumflute
actual climb name is 'Bumflute '
FA: G Short, P Mort,
17
Unknown 30m
80
Peacemaker
Start: The orange corner.
FFA: K.Bell,H.Luxford.M.Law, 1975
22 R
Trad 40m
81
Stuffed
Start: Corner below roofs 10m left of Pacemaker.
22m (16) Block to crack then left into cave. Chimney to bollard.
22m (-) Chimney and corner to arete and belay ledge.
22m (-) Up to traverse line, right to easy corner.
FA: B.Price,G.Owens, 1972
16
Trad 66m
82
Sadhu Rum
Hard move off ground then brackets and bolts all the way up wall.
19
Unknown 30m
83
Whale Oil Beef Hooked
Start: As for 'Stuffed ' but right under the roof. Up the wall and around the corner to horizontal break. Rope drag! Finishes as for Pacemaker.
FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1989
22
Trad 50m
84
Stuffed Direct Start
20
Unknown 4m
85
Pumping Chickens
Start: 5m left of 'Stuffed '.Through roof to ledge and bollard.
FA: S.Moon, 1985
22
Trad 20m
86
Geezer Pleaser
FA: Rob Dun, Ivan Valenta,
21
Sport 30m
87
Just for Fun
Start: As for 'Honey Dip '.
30m (15) Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip ', stem across gap.Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave.Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)
20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.
FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1995
15
Trad 50m
88
Just for Fun - pitch 1
15
Sport 30m
89
Honey Dip
FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1973
13
Trad 65m
90
The Racer's Edge
FA: J.Smoothy, 1985
25
Sport 30m
91
The Racer's Edge Direct Finish
25
Unknown 30m
92
Shakes and Flakes
Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old ' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much
FA: M.Law, M.Johnson, 1979
21
Sport 30m
93
Let's Nail God
FA: J.Smoothy, 1990
23
Sport 30m
94
Tips for Troubadours
FA: J.Smoothy, 1985
23
Sport 30m
95
Rainy Day Saturday
FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973
14
Trad 60m
96
Turkish Delight
FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974
18
Trad 60m
97
Cheap Dive
Re-bolted,
FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979
22
Sport 40m
98
Cheap Skate
22
Sport
99
Demeresque
FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974
17
Trad 74m
100
No Pants
FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000
14
Trad 76m
101
Meanderthal
FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974
13
Trad 43m
102
Mr Poopypants
First moves are hard. 19 as per Blueys Guide. Definitely NOT 18 or 16 as claimed elsewhere.
19
Unknown 25m
103
327
To groove and up . . .
Start: Start at cairn.
FA: Mortimer / King, 1990
18
Trad 35m
104
Unknown left of 327
start off cairn to 'good' hold!
19
Unknown 25m
105
Baldaquin
Thru roof and then scrubby crack.
Start: 10 m left of 327
FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974
18
Trad 35m
106
Hey Jude
Start: Start at short chimney
FA: Bevan / Owens, 1971
15
Trad 30m
107
A
Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?
Start: On the rap ledge.
FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000
20
Unknown 12m
108
B
A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.
Short and steep.
Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind '.
12m (-)
-m (-)
FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000
?
Unknown 12m
109
Transcendental Meditation
22
Trad 30m
110
Knot the Mumma
20
Trad 15m
111
Birdsnest Soup
Overgrown wide crack/chimney
FA: Joe Friend, 1973
17
Trad 30m
112
Bad Moon Rising
23
Trad 50m
113
optimisation
6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.
FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012
22
Sport 13m
, 6
114
Red Dwarf
Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.
FFA: Evan Wells, 2012
25
Sport 13m
, 7
115
Fandooglie
Another chimney
9
Trad 45m
116
Bloody . . . , Nice?! : Project
Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.
Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.
FA: Project Mac / Zac,
FA: Unknown, 2000
X
Trad
117
BR
16
Trad 8m
118
Merchant of Nightmares: Project
Short but steep finger crack to traverse.
FA: Zac / Mac, 2000
Trad
119
Unknown
15
Trad 12m
120
Nameless!
21
Trad 15m