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Description

All the climbs at the left hand end of the crag from the Cheap Dive area to just before the base of Engineers Cascade.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

Re-bolted. Start in corner then up wall following hanging wall feature. Head out to the arete and then back on to the wall to finish.

FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

Hard first moves. Mixed with double lower off. Great adventure climbing.

FA: G Short & P Mort, 2005

To groove and up . . .

Start: At cairn.

FA: G Mortimer & W King, 1990

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

Start: At short chimney

FA: H Bevan & G Owens, 1971

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac

FA: Unknown, 2000

Unique ascent. Exceptionally steep cranking for 1972!The obvious roof/offwidth. Often a watercourse. Up first 5 meters with difficulty then tight body squeeze in roof, unprotected unless you have a big..big bro. Consider hanging gear from waist or sending a rope down for it after chimney. Then awkward (for the 50th time) chimney to large chockstone. Good horizontal on right face then over top to gully. Good tree another 15 meters back.

FA: B.Price G.Owens, 1972

FFA: M . Dunstan, 1977

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

Another chimney

Activity

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