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If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


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Grade Route

Climb the arete direct for the last few bolts (the original traverses left up the face away from the arete for 2 bolts).

FA: Stacey McManus, 1995

The route on the arête entirely on old carrots with a # 4 and # 0.75 cam needed. Finishes up face on left side of arete (shared finish with the mystery route)

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

Mystery line of bolts 2m left of Racer's Edge which eventually joins into that routes original left trending finish right at the top. A mix of FHs, carrots and rings of different eras. At the 3rd bolt trend right boldly into Racers Edge for a few moves then back left to the worn sidepull (doing the move without this dogleg looks highly contrived and very hard!). Anyone with further info?

Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much

FA: M.Law & M.Johnson, 1979

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985


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