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Description

The area between Rickapoodle and Black Betty.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: G.Owens & J.Lamb, 1973

Start: As for Rickapoodle Arete. BR, right to arete and ledge. Seam on right of arete to tree. Finish up Rickapoodle Arete.

FA: M. Hahn, N. Dwyer & D. Languscjh, 1994

FA: J.Wilson & G.Owens, 2000

FA: W.King & S.Burns, 1989

FA: G Short & J Smoothy, 2005

Boulder problem start then intimidating groove

FA: K.carrigan & A.Penney, 1978

  1. 25m (16) up the gully to ledge step out right onto wall and follow thin crack to ledge, abseil anchor here

  2. 15m (19) up the short steep crack on right (unpleasant one move wonder) to top - Taipan Variant is a much better finish

FA: K.Bell & I.Thomas, 1975

The overhanging crack to the left of Taipan P1 belay. Great exposure!

FA: K.Bell & P.Giles, 1975

The arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

squeezed in there

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan' P1. Diagonally left along slightly flexy flake line and carrots.

FA: W.King, 1990

Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.

FA: T.Wegnut, 1995

Ferny chimney!

FA: G.Owens & J.Wilson, 1968

They dreamt of drills didnt they?

FA: T.Hunt & D.Eldridge, 1984

FA: J.Smoothy, T.Bernutt & A.Renney, 2000

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

FA: Ivan & Bob

Activity

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