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Table of contents

1. Zig Zag 122 routes in Crag

Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.247910, -33.596336

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ethel Direct

Hard start of the platform, or link in from Harpo. Watch that death block about half way up.

20Sport 15m
2 Ethel The Aardvark Goes Quantity Surveying

Ahh, please no..

Start: Off the small ledge above where the path leaves the Zig Zag.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

17Trad 15m
3 Harpo

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

17Sport 20m
4 Grouchie

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

19Sport 18m
5 Just Go For It 20Unknown 20m
6 Unknown 20

In Gully behind sector i. Rings.

FA: Stumpy

20Unknown 10m
7 Kcabyal Kcarc 14Unknown 10m
8 Smearing Sucks 13Unknown 12m
9 Stairway to Heaven 10Unknown 12m
10 Sperm Covered Punk Bitches 19Unknown 12m
11 Something Sinister 14Unknown 14m
12 Blasphemy 21Unknown 23m
13 * Brass Monkey

Start: This area is about 50m past Grouchie.

FA: G.Owens,Daly,Smith, 2000

7Trad 25m
14 * Denali Blaster

easy slab

FA: J.Boyton, 1985

14Trad 35m
15 Deceptor

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 2000

10 RTrad 40m
16 Rickapoodle Arete

FA: G.Owens,J.Lamb, 1973

14Trad 44m
17 Grigris, Hmmmmm 14Unknown 30m
18 * Rickapoodle

FA: J.Wilson,G.Owens, 2000

9Trad 30m
19 ** Giggles

FA: W.King,S.Burns, 1989

16Trad 50m
20 Wazzakstan

FA: Short and Smoothy

19Unknown 30m
21 * Toads

Boulder problem start then intimidating groove

FA: K.carrigan,A.Penney, 1978

23 RTrad 43m
22 *** Taipan

1:25m up the gully to ledge step out right onto wall and follow thin crack to ledge, abseil anchor here 2:15m up the short steep crack on right to top

FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas, 1975

19Trad 40m
23 *** Taipan pitch 1 19Trad 25m
24 ** Taipan Variant

the overhang crack to the left of belay

16Trad 20m
25 ** Fer De Lance

FA: K.Bell,P.Giles, 1975

18Trad 30m
26 Unknown 1 21Unknown 15m
27 Catweazel

The arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

21Trad 15m
28 Monty Madness

squeezed in there

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

22Sport 10m
29 Army Exercises

Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan' start. Head left.

FA: W.King, 1990

21Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 * Wagget & Wegnut

Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.

FA: T.Wegnut, 1995

23Trad 15m
31 Groovie

Ferny chimney!

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson, 1968

12Trad 30m
32 Frottage Wall

They dreamt of drills didnt they?

FA: T.Hunt,D.Eldridge, 1984

15 RTrad 12m
33 Possession

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt,A.Renney, 2000

22Trad 35m
34 Truckstop Lawyers

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

23Sport 20m
35 Truckstop Lawyers Variant

FA: Ivan and Bob

19Unknown 20m
36 Solo Chimney 6Unknown 45m
37 Semi-Solo 8Unknown 35m
38 Rumdoodle 7Unknown 45m
39 Walkabout 11Unknown 35m
40 The Land of Nod 5Unknown 35m
41 Spaghetti Bolognaise 13Unknown 43m
42 The Hounds of Hades 21Unknown 20m
43 Slunt 16Unknown 20m
44 Indecision 9Unknown 32m
45 ** Black Betty

FA: Ward,Leigh, 1988

17Trad 20m
46 Penguins on Safari

FA: Hunt,Robbins,Eldridge, 1984

14 RTrad 35m
47 ** Bam Ba Lamb

FA: Leigh Ward, 1988

18 RTrad 40m
48 Winkle

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

12Trad 41m
49 * Penguin Pete

FA: T.Hunt, 2000

16Trad 20m
50 * Van

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

16Trad 44m
51 * Rip

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

14Trad 20m
52 Lincoln's Mystery Route

FA: Unknown Climb. Line of new carrots.

18Unknown 20m
53 I Did It For Love

Awesome old school route, use anchors for SF!

FFA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

FA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

9Mixed 10m, 1
54 SF

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

21Sport 12m
55 * Urako

quite strenuous

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

21Sport 12m
56 Fashion TV

go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako.

FA: 2006

22Sport 14m
57 * Make It Nylons

start up urako and traverse towards arete, fashion tv is essentially a rebolted version of this route

FA: Smoothy,Lumsden,McManus, 1988

20Trad 20m
58 * The Mixture

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 1968

11Trad 47m
59 ** The Mighty Quinn

an excellent extension to dress rehearsal rag

FA: Ivan Valenta, Rob Dun

21Sport 15m
60 Bolted slab with no holds

Optimistic Project ??

Trad 12m
61 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch

Desperate for 17.

17Sport 10m
62 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag
  1. 15m (17) Solid at the grade, rising traverse past the carrots, a few medium wires available but not necessary. Cracking pitch.

  2. 20m (21)

20Sport 40m
63 Destruction of Army Group Centre

Start: As for DRR to ledge then take the left line.

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

23 RTrad 20m
64 * Disaster Area

Start: Marked IRA.

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1983

23Sport 15m
65 * Dead Milkmen

FA: W.King,I.Collins, 1989

16Trad 15m
66 Fairy Tales

Start: Lefthand route on the small wall. Has an extention all the way to the top (21).Take Care.

16 RTrad 13m
67 Fairy Tales Direct Finish 21Unknown 21m
68 Unknown 2 15Unknown 10m
69 * Goodie Gumdrops 24Unknown 20m
70 * Amok Time 18Unknown 20m
71 Sidewinder 18Unknown 30m
72 Revolt 9Unknown 40m
73 The Carpenter 10Unknown 25m
74 The Walrus 6Unknown 30m
75 Crack to Nowhere 14Unknown 12m
76 Upheaval 16Unknown 33m
77 Twilight

On 'S' Wall. Head right on 3 bolts to arete. Go up arete on right side on rings to rap point.

FA: 2006

14Unknown 20m
78 S 17Unknown 35m
79 Perfidious Rex 7Unknown 28m
80 *** Black Bart

Start: 'Arete' to the right of orange corner.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

19Trad 40m
81 * Bumflute

Start as BB, then left past a few hangers and single carrot up high.

FA: G Short, P Mort

17Trad 30m
82 Pacemaker

Start: The orange corner.

FFA: K.Bell,H.Luxford.M.Law, 1975

22 RTrad 40m
83 * Stuffed

Start: Corner below roofs 10m left of Pacemaker.

  1. 22m (16) Block to crack then left into cave. Chimney to bollard.

  2. 22m (-) Chimney and corner to arete and belay ledge.

  3. 22m (-) Up to traverse line, right to easy corner.

FA: B.Price,G.Owens, 1972

16Trad 66m
84 Sadhu Rum

Hard move off ground then brackets and bolts all the way up wall.

19Unknown 30m
85 Whale Oil Beef Hooked

Start: As for 'Stuffed' but right under the roof. Up the wall and around the corner to horizontal break. Rope drag! Finishes as for Pacemaker.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1989

22Trad 50m
86 Stuffed Direct Start 20Unknown 4m
87 * Pumping Chickens

Start: 5m left of 'Stuffed'.Through roof to ledge and bollard.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

22Trad 20m
88 * Geezer Pleaser

FA: Rob Dun, Ivan Valenta

21Sport 30m
89 ** Just for Fun

Start: As for 'Honey Dip'.

  1. 30m (15) Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip', stem across gap.Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave.Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)

  2. 20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1995

15Trad 50m
90 *** Just for Fun - pitch 1 15Sport 30m
91 *** Honey Dip

Start under roof up slab to bouldery move up through roof to single carrot, gear thereafter. Follow the beautiful crack up to the little rooflet (build a cam nest) then traverse left across and up to ledge to chain.

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1973

13Mixed 30m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
92 * The Racer's Edge

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

25Sport 30m
93 The Racer's Edge Direct Finish

Rebolted. New bolts at start seem to be in wrong places..

25Unknown 30m
94 *** Shakes and Flakes

Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much

FA: M.Law, M.Johnson, 1979

21Sport 30m
95 ** Let's Nail God

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

23Sport 30m
96 ** Tips for Troubadours

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

23Sport 30m
97 Rainy Day Saturday

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

14Trad 60m
98 *** Turkish Delight

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

18Trad 60m
99 ** Cheap Dive


FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

22Sport 40m
100 Cheap Skate 22Sport
101 Demeresque

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

17Trad 74m
102 No Pants

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

14Trad 76m
103 Meanderthal

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

13Trad 43m
104 * Mr Poopypants

Hard first moves hard. 19

19Unknown 25m
105 327

To groove and up . . .

Start: Start at cairn.

FA: Mortimer / King, 1990

18Trad 35m
106 Unknown left of 327

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

19Unknown 25m
107 Baldaquin

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

18Trad 35m
108 Hey Jude

Start: Start at short chimney

FA: Bevan / Owens, 1971

15Trad 30m
109 A

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

20Unknown 12m
110 B

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

?Unknown 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
111 * Bloody . . . , Nice?! : Project

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac

FA: Unknown, 2000

112 * Transcendental Meditation 22Trad 30m
113 Knot the Mumma 20Trad 15m
114 Birdsnest Soup

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

17Trad 30m
115 ** Bad Moon Rising 23Trad 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
116 ** optimisation

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012

22Sport 13m, 6
117 * Red Dwarf

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

25Sport 13m, 7
118 BR 16Trad 8m
119 Merchant of Nightmares: Project

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

120 Fandooglie

Another chimney

9Trad 45m
121 Unknown 15Trad 12m
122 ** Nameless! 21Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 The Land of Nod Unknown 35m
6 Solo Chimney Unknown 45m
The Walrus Unknown 30m
7 * Brass Monkey Trad 25m
Perfidious Rex Unknown 28m
Rumdoodle Unknown 45m
8 Semi-Solo Unknown 35m
9 Fandooglie Trad 45m
I Did It For Love Mixed 10m, 1
Indecision Unknown 32m
Revolt Unknown 40m
* Rickapoodle Trad 30m
10 Deceptor Trad 40m
Stairway to Heaven Unknown 12m
The Carpenter Unknown 25m
11 * The Mixture Trad 47m
Walkabout Unknown 35m
12 Groovie Trad 30m
Winkle Trad 41m
13 *** Honey Dip Mixed 30m, 1
Meanderthal Trad 43m
Smearing Sucks Unknown 12m
Spaghetti Bolognaise Unknown 43m
14 Crack to Nowhere Unknown 12m
* Denali Blaster Trad 35m
Grigris, Hmmmmm Unknown 30m
Kcabyal Kcarc Unknown 10m
No Pants Trad 76m
Penguins on Safari Trad 35m
Rainy Day Saturday Trad 60m
Rickapoodle Arete Trad 44m
* Rip Trad 20m
Something Sinister Unknown 14m
Twilight Unknown 20m
15 Frottage Wall Trad 12m
Hey Jude Trad 30m
** Just for Fun Trad 50m
*** Just for Fun - pitch 1 Sport 30m
Unknown Trad 12m
Unknown 2 Unknown 10m
16 BR Trad 8m
* Dead Milkmen Trad 15m
Fairy Tales Trad 13m
** Giggles Trad 50m
* Penguin Pete Trad 20m
Slunt Unknown 20m
* Stuffed Trad 66m
** Taipan Variant Trad 20m
Upheaval Unknown 33m
* Van Trad 44m
17 Birdsnest Soup Trad 30m
** Black Betty Trad 20m
* Bumflute Trad 30m
Demeresque Trad 74m
*** Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch Sport 10m
Ethel The Aardvark Goes Quantity Surveying Trad 15m
Harpo Sport 20m
S Unknown 35m
18 327 Trad 35m
* Amok Time Unknown 20m
Baldaquin Trad 35m
** Bam Ba Lamb Trad 40m
** Fer De Lance Trad 30m
Lincoln's Mystery Route Unknown 20m
Sidewinder Unknown 30m
*** Turkish Delight Trad 60m
19 *** Black Bart Trad 40m
Grouchie Sport 18m
* Mr Poopypants Unknown 25m
Sadhu Rum Unknown 30m
Sperm Covered Punk Bitches Unknown 12m
*** Taipan Trad 40m
*** Taipan pitch 1 Trad 25m
Truckstop Lawyers Variant Unknown 20m
Unknown left of 327 Unknown 25m
Wazzakstan Unknown 30m
20 A Unknown 12m
*** Dress Rehearsal Rag Sport 40m
Ethel Direct Sport 15m
Just Go For It Unknown 20m
Knot the Mumma Trad 15m
* Make It Nylons Trad 20m
Stuffed Direct Start Unknown 4m
Unknown 20 Unknown 10m
21 Army Exercises Trad 20m
Blasphemy Unknown 23m
Catweazel Trad 15m
Fairy Tales Direct Finish Unknown 21m
* Geezer Pleaser Sport 30m
** Nameless! Trad 15m
SF Sport 12m
*** Shakes and Flakes Sport 30m
The Hounds of Hades Unknown 20m
** The Mighty Quinn Sport 15m
Unknown 1 Unknown 15m
* Urako Sport 12m
22 ** Cheap Dive Sport 40m
Cheap Skate Sport
Fashion TV Sport 14m
Monty Madness Sport 10m
Pacemaker Trad 40m
Possession Trad 35m
* Pumping Chickens Trad 20m
* Transcendental Meditation Trad 30m
Whale Oil Beef Hooked Trad 50m
** optimisation Sport 13m, 6
23 ** Bad Moon Rising Trad 50m
Destruction of Army Group Centre Trad 20m
* Disaster Area Sport 15m
** Let's Nail God Sport 30m
** Tips for Troubadours Sport 30m
* Toads Trad 43m
Truckstop Lawyers Sport 20m
* Wagget & Wegnut Trad 15m
24 * Goodie Gumdrops Unknown 20m
25 * Red Dwarf Sport 13m, 7
* The Racer's Edge Sport 30m
The Racer's Edge Direct Finish Unknown 30m
? * Bloody . . . , Nice?! : Project Trad
Bolted slab with no holds Trad 12m
Merchant of Nightmares: Project Trad
B Unknown 12m