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Table of contents

1. Thor Head 5 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.298183, -33.550828

Description:© (nmonteith)

The main wall is outstanding orange rock, which pops into the shade after 1pm. This is an 80m high cliff, accessed from the top via abseil. The lower 20m is a bit scrappy, so many routes only start from a ledge part way up.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From 'Asgard' Swamp carpark (500m before end of road) follow gated road downhill for 3km to swamp (30 minutes). Continue another 500m then bush bash left up a ridge at small rock cairn. After 10 minutes you arrive at first summit with stupendous views. Look north to see see second rocky summit (Thor Head). All routes are below this rocky blob summit. Refer to Google map below.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Baileys

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

  1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

  2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

FA: M.Law, M. Garben, D.Stone, V Peterson, 2000

24 Sport 75m 2
2 *** I Hurt it on the Grapevine

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

FA: Mike Law & Neil MOnteith, 2008

24 Sport 50m, 18
3 ** Raving Bull

Excellent red wall on pitch 1, weird climbing on pitch 2.

Start: Fix a 60m rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

  1. 37m (25) Super looking rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Committing finish.

  2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, Aaron Jones, Mike Law and Adrian Lang, 2008

25 Sport 67m 2
4 Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT)

A very long face route, that can be split into two pitches or lead as one ultra long pitch.

Start: Fix 60m rope off large tree 5m left of 'Raving Bull' and rap down to huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete.

  1. 15m (25) Mossy slab for a few metres then straight up reachy orange face on cool pockets to join into Hurt It etc for two bolts then traverse right across hand ledge to hanging belay at double u-bolts.

  2. 40m (26) Onwards up epic orange face with a kinky right dogleg about halfway up (clip the FHs and ignore the rings going straight up - unless you climb 30+). Sustained right to the very last move.

26 Sport 55m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Thorever

Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north or rap down route. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended. Pitch one is the highlight. Up wall and arette to triple ubolt hanging belay. Bring 20 quickdraws. Pich two is immediately technical getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the chain. Double U bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 up to steep over hanging red wall and work arette. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Pitch 4 vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Belay from tree backed up with single U bolt. P1 42m (23), p2 26m (24), p3 26m (24), p4 16m (15)

Set by E .Wells, 2015

FFA: Evan Wells , Jessica Tam, 2015

24 Sport 110m 4, 50

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
24 * Baileys Sport 75m 2
*** I Hurt it on the Grapevine Sport 50m, 18
Thorever Sport 110m 4, 50
25 ** Raving Bull Sport 67m 2
26 Horse Meat Disco (CLOSED PROJECT) Sport 55m 2