Description:© (nmonteith)

Excellent red wall on pitch 1, weird climbing on pitch 2.

Start: Fix a 60m rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

  1. 37m (25) Super looking rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Committing finish.

  2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith, Aaron Jones, Mike Law & Adrian Lang, 2008

Location:  

Located in Thor Head approx:
Long/Lat: 150.298183,-33.550828

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Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained hard super great beautiful scary runout face interesting

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