Information needed

This crag does not have a description. Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

Apparently quality rock with potential, but probably on private land. The map location is approximate. May be The Colliery?

Last written up in the '99 guide Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains

Access issues

Probably private land

Approach

Take the Bells Line of Road towards Lithgow.

Drive through Clarence, passing the Zig Zag station on your right.1km after Zig Zag station, the road takes a big sweeping left bend.

At the end of this bend, turn left into an obvious cleared dirt area, marked by a sign saying: "Zig-Zag Tunnels 9/10 Site Office Access". Continue along dirt road (ignoring first locked-gate turn off to the left), and at approx 700m turn left onto dirt-road.

This road gets progressively worse, with 4WD capability needed to reach the very end. Park wherever you become concerned for your cars clearance, and continue on foot. Else park at the trig at 1800m.

Walk 100 m south-west along the right fork to broken tree, slightly right for 50m to faint road. Pass anthill and walk 300m to cairn.

Turn right off track and go down ridgetop towards cliff. On the right of a big gully and directly above colliery is a prominent outcrop with a cairn. Go left below the outcrop and down slightly left ro a lower outcrop. Briefly right into a dirt gully and down left to VAP.

Don't go down the large gully

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 Updraught Unknown 26m

30m from the carpark - arete on the right wall, tending right to a vegetated ledge

The following climbs are left of the access track. Those near Steve Moon Memorial Chimney may be better accessed from the colliery road

2

Left of a small gully. A dark chimney to the left or an orange wall

FA: L. Closs & T. Williams

3
15 Flaps in Your Face Unknown 60m, 2

P1: 21m - start 50m from SSMC at an alcove. Up grey flakes to the roof, over on the right then up crack to belay on ledge.

P2: 39m - straight up or veer slightly left.

FA: T. Williams, L. Closs & R.Wells

4
14 The Boys Own Slab Unknown 76m, 3

Start 30m right of a corner at a scrubby slab

P1: 30m - up 3m onto ledge, traverse right and up, left to a dead tree and belay

P2: 30m - up left, then up to belay just right of the scrubby corner

P3: 16m - Continue up

5
22 Un-named Corner Unknown

Up corner with stepped roofs near the big gully

FA: M.Law

6
21 Dreadger Unknown 33m, 2

Start: crack above ledge 60m right of gully

P1- traverse steep wall to ledge

P2- Get onto roof, use poor locks to the lip, up and layback the crack to the cave.

Go left to descend.

FA: L. Closs & T. Williams

7
19 Dining With Grendel Unknown 43m, 2

Start - Groove and steep offwidth to the right of Dreadger

P1: 19, 23m - up groove and chimney to ledge

P2: 18, 20m - strenuous offwidth

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

8
16 Deviatrix Unknown 33m

Start at thin vegetated crack 20m right of DWG.

Solo 4m to ledge, left around first overhang. 12m left to corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

9
15 Imperatrix Unknown 40m

Start up Deviatrix

P1: 30m - as for D, traverse past corner and around the nose

P2: 10m - up corner

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

10
17 Belligerence Unknown 26m

Big offwidth right of scrubby corner. Thrash up to cave on right.

Rap off block to descend

FA: L. Closs & T.Williams

11
15 Bonza Unknown

Start on right of pillar. Up the steep corner, cross the nose and finish in cave for Belligerence

FA: L.Closs, J. Hibbard & T.Williams

12
14 Fickle Finger of Flake Unknown 20m

Chimney flake to the right of Bonza.

Finish up RFTE or rap

13
17 Reach for the Earth Unknown 43m

Short square corner right of Fickle.

P1: 17, 17m - Up corner to tree

P2: 16, 26m - scramble up, through roof, chimney and corner

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

14
15 Spurious Unknown 17m

10m right of Reach for the Earth.

Around nose, veer L to nose and up

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

15
16 Curious Unknown 17m

Start 5m right of S, poorly protected

16
13 Un Named Crack Unknown 18m

The left of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: B. Cameron & A.Teague

17
15 Furious Unknown 18m

The right of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: L.Closs

18

70m right of Reach For the Earth at a chimney and crack on the left edge of the red Breakaway wall

FA: R.T. Williams (solo)

19
17 The Breakaway Unknown 43m

Finger crack in red wall 80m right of Reach.

Up to ledge at 2/3 height, left 18m and up to a tree

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

The following climbs are left of the access track

20
16 Valtz A Patrice Unknown 20m

Leaning flake 100m right of The Breakaway. Into cave for pro, then downclimb and up outside or jam across the roof. Up crack, traverse right and up

FA: L.Closs & T. Williams

21
12 Sabre Rattle Unknown 50m, 2

Start 100m right of gully at steep butress.

P1: 14m - right edge of lower wall to a ledge

P2: 36m - up to bush runner, return and go left above roof to flakes. To cave, down and across to horizontal crack. Up then traverse into niche. left and up

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

22
12 Madam Hatchet Unknown 40m

Alternate second pitch for SR,

P2 - as for SR to flake and cave, up and L

FA: T. Williams & L. Closs

23
14 Avarice Unknown 23m

10m right of MH, low angled corner

FA: L.Closs, A.Teague & T.Williams

24
13 The Thirteenth Hour Unknown 23m

5m right of Avarice. Corner

FA: Teague & Bradstock

25
11 I Hate Cats Unknown 23m

Juggy black wall

FA: W.Moon & B. Cameron

26
16 The Winged Wombat Unknown 27m, 2

10m right of Avarice, at scrubby crack.

P1: 16, 12m - chimney to roof, follow crack to lip and up to ledge.

P2: 14, 15m - easy up to the roof, up fin to jugs

FA: T. Williams

27
15 Aplomb Unknown 17m

15 right of TWW, slab and corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

28
7 Scintillating Company Unknown 17m

10m right of Aplomb, chimney

FA: L.Closs(solo)

29
17 Clothed Lunch Unknown 23m

8m left of IC. Scramble up to tree, then follow the curving crack. Diagonally left to tree.

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

30
18 * IC Unknown 23m

Start just left of the chimney. Red scoops protected by cams in a break out left then honeycomb to a single BB. Take care

31
16 Badger's Reminiscence Unknown 32m

start at chimney right of sharp arete in the red wall.

Up chimney and roof. Follow crack to bush and dirt ramp

FA: T. Williams, R. Wells & L.Closs

32
7 A Way Up Unknown 20m

3m right of Badgers, corner

FA: L.Closs (solo)

33
17 Cruel Immorality Unknown 23m

8m right of BR, up crack to ledge then up the shallow corner. Originally done in two pitches

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

34

Up chimney to cave, continue up wall above cave. Originally led as two pitches

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

35

Chimney

FA: Solo

36
6 The Koran Unknown 20m

Chimney

FA: R.Bradstock & A.Teague

The following routes are on a detached boulder

37
13 Silvertail Unknown

Northside of detatched boulder.

Slab, overlap and corner

FA: L.Closs & B. Maddison

38
14 Duffel Plum Unknown

traverse right and up the arete

FA: Closs & Maddison

The following routes are back on the main wall

39
11 Sewerside Wall Unknown 27m

starts 7m right of the Koran at a tree

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs, A.Teague & R.Bradstock

40
14 Silly Things Unknown 27m

right of SW at a faint crack

FA: B.Cameron

41
14 Blood of the Forests Unknown 27m

scrubby crack on the right of the grey rippled wall

42
6 Dianne Unknown

Short crack on the North side

FA: L.Closs (solo)

43
16 Jamming For Allah Unknown 17m

Narrowing chimney crack on steep yellow wall facing the valley

FA: T. Williams

44

FA: Williams, Closs, Teague & Bradstock

45
9 Me & My Mullah Unknown 17m

Arete on right of the yellow wall

FA: T. Williams

46

Direct finish. To top of buttress

FA: J. Hibbard

47
9 Meccano Unknown

Centre of grey wall

FA: L.Closs (solo)

48

Short offwidth corner 50m right of M&MM

FA: T. Williams (solo)

49
12 Ross' Gory Unknown 15m

Offwidth 75m right of Dave Noble

FA: Bradstock

50
9 Antigone Unknown 15m

Chimney 60m right of Ross'

FA: Williams (solo)

Activity

Check out what is happening in Uncle Tom's.