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Apparently quality rock with potential, but probably on private land. The map location is approximate. May be The Colliery?

Last written up in the '99 guide Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains

Access issues

Probably private land


Take the Bells Line of Road towards Lithgow.

Drive through Clarence, passing the Zig Zag station on your right.1km after Zig Zag station, the road takes a big sweeping left bend.

At the end of this bend, turn left into an obvious cleared dirt area, marked by a sign saying: "Zig-Zag Tunnels 9/10 Site Office Access". Continue along dirt road (ignoring first locked-gate turn off to the left), and at approx 700m turn left onto dirt-road.

This road gets progressively worse, with 4WD capability needed to reach the very end. Park wherever you become concerned for your cars clearance, and continue on foot. Else park at the trig at 1800m.

Walk 100 m south-west along the right fork to broken tree, slightly right for 50m to faint road. Pass anthill and walk 300m to cairn.

Turn right off track and go down ridgetop towards cliff. On the right of a big gully and directly above colliery is a prominent outcrop with a cairn. Go left below the outcrop and down slightly left ro a lower outcrop. Briefly right into a dirt gully and down left to VAP.

Don't go down the large gully

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Grade Route

30m from the carpark - arete on the right wall, tending right to a vegetated ledge

The following climbs are left of the access track. Those near Steve Moon Memorial Chimney may be better accessed from the colliery road

Left of a small gully. A dark chimney to the left or an orange wall

FA: L. Closs & T. Williams

P1: 21m - start 50m from SSMC at an alcove. Up grey flakes to the roof, over on the right then up crack to belay on ledge.

P2: 39m - straight up or veer slightly left.

FA: T. Williams, L. Closs & R.Wells

Start 30m right of a corner at a scrubby slab

P1: 30m - up 3m onto ledge, traverse right and up, left to a dead tree and belay

P2: 30m - up left, then up to belay just right of the scrubby corner

P3: 16m - Continue up

Up corner with stepped roofs near the big gully

FA: M.Law

Start: crack above ledge 60m right of gully

P1- traverse steep wall to ledge

P2- Get onto roof, use poor locks to the lip, up and layback the crack to the cave.

Go left to descend.

FA: L. Closs & T. Williams

Start - Groove and steep offwidth to the right of Dreadger

P1: 19, 23m - up groove and chimney to ledge

P2: 18, 20m - strenuous offwidth

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

Start at thin vegetated crack 20m right of DWG.

Solo 4m to ledge, left around first overhang. 12m left to corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

Start up Deviatrix

P1: 30m - as for D, traverse past corner and around the nose

P2: 10m - up corner

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

Big offwidth right of scrubby corner. Thrash up to cave on right.

Rap off block to descend

FA: L. Closs & T.Williams

Start on right of pillar. Up the steep corner, cross the nose and finish in cave for Belligerence

FA: L.Closs, J. Hibbard & T.Williams

Chimney flake to the right of Bonza.

Finish up RFTE or rap

Short square corner right of Fickle.

P1: 17, 17m - Up corner to tree

P2: 16, 26m - scramble up, through roof, chimney and corner

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

10m right of Reach for the Earth.

Around nose, veer L to nose and up

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

Start 5m right of S, poorly protected

The left of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: B. Cameron & A.Teague

The right of two cracks on a grey wall

FA: L.Closs

70m right of Reach For the Earth at a chimney and crack on the left edge of the red Breakaway wall

FA: R.T. Williams (solo)

Finger crack in red wall 80m right of Reach.

Up to ledge at 2/3 height, left 18m and up to a tree

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

The following climbs are left of the access track

Leaning flake 100m right of The Breakaway. Into cave for pro, then downclimb and up outside or jam across the roof. Up crack, traverse right and up

FA: L.Closs & T. Williams

Start 100m right of gully at steep butress.

P1: 14m - right edge of lower wall to a ledge

P2: 36m - up to bush runner, return and go left above roof to flakes. To cave, down and across to horizontal crack. Up then traverse into niche. left and up

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

Alternate second pitch for SR,

P2 - as for SR to flake and cave, up and L

FA: T. Williams & L. Closs

10m right of MH, low angled corner

FA: L.Closs, A.Teague & T.Williams

5m right of Avarice. Corner

FA: Teague & Bradstock

Juggy black wall

FA: W.Moon & B. Cameron

10m right of Avarice, at scrubby crack.

P1: 16, 12m - chimney to roof, follow crack to lip and up to ledge.

P2: 14, 15m - easy up to the roof, up fin to jugs

FA: T. Williams

15 right of TWW, slab and corner to tree.

FA: T. Williams & L.Closs

10m right of Aplomb, chimney

FA: L.Closs(solo)

8m left of IC. Scramble up to tree, then follow the curving crack. Diagonally left to tree.

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

Start just left of the chimney. Red scoops protected by cams in a break out left then honeycomb to a single BB. Take care

start at chimney right of sharp arete in the red wall.

Up chimney and roof. Follow crack to bush and dirt ramp

FA: T. Williams, R. Wells & L.Closs

3m right of Badgers, corner

FA: L.Closs (solo)

8m right of BR, up crack to ledge then up the shallow corner. Originally done in two pitches

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams

Up chimney to cave, continue up wall above cave. Originally led as two pitches

FA: L.Closs & T.Williams


FA: Solo


FA: R.Bradstock & A.Teague

The following routes are on a detached boulder

Northside of detatched boulder.

Slab, overlap and corner

FA: L.Closs & B. Maddison

traverse right and up the arete

FA: Closs & Maddison

The following routes are back on the main wall

starts 7m right of the Koran at a tree

FA: T. Williams, L.Closs, A.Teague & R.Bradstock

right of SW at a faint crack

FA: B.Cameron

scrubby crack on the right of the grey rippled wall

Short crack on the North side

FA: L.Closs (solo)

Narrowing chimney crack on steep yellow wall facing the valley

FA: T. Williams

FA: Williams, Closs, Teague & Bradstock

Arete on right of the yellow wall

FA: T. Williams

Direct finish. To top of buttress

FA: J. Hibbard

Centre of grey wall

FA: L.Closs (solo)

Short offwidth corner 50m right of M&MM

FA: T. Williams (solo)

Offwidth 75m right of Dave Noble

FA: Bradstock

Chimney 60m right of Ross'

FA: Williams (solo)


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