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Summary

West facing cliff-line that has remained obscure since it has never featured in any of the new print guidebooks.

Description

This is a mixed protection cliff, you will need trad for every route here, and a handful of bolt plates. Most routes top-out rather than have modern 'lower off' anchors.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

West face at south end of plateau leading out to Ikara Head. Drive down Victoria Falls Rd (as for Ikara and Vic Falls). Drive for 3.9km and park near sign "Management Track". Walk 80m back up the road to where road gently curves back right. Veer right into the bush and head across ridge to west. Follow cleared route (well, it was cleared in 1998 when the print guide was written!) north through black scrub along crest of narrowing flat ridge. A big sculptured outcrop appears when the scrub clears (15mins from road) This is 100m north of southern descent gully and 50m south east of the top of The Tears (GR 471832 on Mt Wilson Map). The open plateau coincides with climbing area. Camp cave and The Prow is north of clearing.

Ethic

Mixed climbing rules.

History

View historical timeline

Wade Stevens (RIP) did most of the first ascents here in 1995. According to ticks on this website the cliff have been all but abandoned since the late 90s.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A 3 bolt belay, horn and trees allow abseil from rock platform to reach the following.

8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab.

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

FA: Wade Stevens, 1995

FA: Wade Stevens & L Kingdom, 1995

FA: c.o'donnell/r.rogers

Rap to next 3 routes. 3.5m right (facing out) of biggest tree halfway along norrh half of upper tier on north terrace. A odd nose diving grasstree is 1m north of cairn at top of route. Wires and cams in crack under cairn. Rap 26m to stance (small cams & wires) above steep double corner, 6m above the ground. Otherwise start from the ground . Batman off BR and, jugs (grade 18) to stance.

Short access scramble (grade 5?) is marked at top by big tree at cliff edge below green "soak".

First area reached on the walk in, just north of where the scrub clears.

Activity

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