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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 * Gob Smack Unknown 12m

FA: Mikaela Thomson, 2009

FA: Mikaela Thomson, 2009

2
19 Jub Jub the Iguana Sport 15m

Start: Climbs the grey wall just right of the little cave. (There is now a new climb to the left of it on the arete above the cave.)

3
20 * Sideshow Bob Sport 18m

Start: Next line of ringbolts to the right, off a higher ledge.

4
21 * Heavy Chaffing Sport 18m
5

Start: Start up 'Heavy Chaffing' and go right at the top.

6
22 ** Scarred For Life Unknown 25m

FA: Nathan Bolton

7

Start: Start about 10m further right

8
24 *** Burn The Cross Unknown 30m

FA: Nathan Bolton

9

Start: Start 6m right around arete, go left at the top and finish as for the ice thing.

10
23 ** Phil's Effort Sport 20m
11
17 ** Hypothermia Sport 25m

FA: Mikaela Thomson

12
25 *** Samarkand Trad 200m

Rap in from 'Critical Mass' and walk back towards Walls lookout, approx 100m

  1. 15m (23) 1st 5m or so have 'average' rock quality then onto polished hard sandstone. Belay bolts are below little rooflet

  2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start to get past 2 carrots and into chimney. Climb this until it forces you out and onto the face. Punch hard up crack and into the 2nd crack up and left. Belay from good ledge on single carrot and large cams.

  3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance on carrots.

  4. 35m (22) Punch up open book corner on good gear using crack and face holds. You are then forced onto the face at 3/4 height where the carrots are. 1st carrot is SUPER hard to put plate over, but you can put a good No.4 Camalot in break below it.Climb to small ledge and small corner. Tricky moves past 2 carrots lead to big ledge and carrot belay.

  5. 25m (22) Follow obvious left leaning crack 2m left of belay until it peters out, step right acroos to scoup and large block. Head up to good holds and large scoup with 3 carrots above. Take care exiting to top. Single ringbolt in block with gear for belay

13
22 Gnaw Iron Bars Trad 150m

FA: M Wilson, M Law, 2007

14
26 *** Critical Mass Unknown 160m
15
24 ** Sweet Romancer Sport 40m
16
21 * My Kind of Bliss Trad 100m
17
14 * Darkside Trad 110m

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear.

FA: Ness, Mikl, Mark Wilson

18

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts.

  1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

  2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave and high DBB on far lip of cave.

  3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

  4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right. Pretty exposed.

FA: Peterson, Wilson & Law., 2000

19
21 *** Mirrorball Sport 40m

sport route 5 pitch

FA: M wilson, V Peterson, M Law, 2000

20
20 * Dirty Dancing Trad 63m

The obvious chimney & crack that splits the front face of the Mirrorball Pinnacle.

  1. 25m (13) Up the chimney on natural gear (#5 camalot is handy for near the top). Double bolt belay.

  2. 18m (20) Weird undercut wide crack start (large cam is handy again) then up the narrowing crack to the classic finger-crack (crux, well protected with medium-large wires). Double bolt belay.

  3. 20m (16) Bolts (bring lots of brackets) and dinnerplates. Double bolt belay on top of Mirrorball Pinnacle.

  4. As for pitch 4 of The West Face of the Mirrorball.

All bolts are stainless steel glue-in hex heads. A good variation is to do P1 of The West Face of the Mirrorball, then step right to do P2 of Dirty Dancing, then P3 of either route - the belays are on the same ledge systems.

FA: Peter Monks, Andrew Duckworth (alt), 2000

21
22 Disco Dancer Sport 100m
22
23 ** Bionic Booger Boys Sport 100m
24
24 *** Weaselburger Unknown 200m
25
23 *** Burgermeister Sport 100m

Belay & abseil as weaselburger more direct trad route. Finish at ledge after the third pitch.

26
21 ** Old Skool Trad 45m

Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear.

5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad.

Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route.

FA: M Law, V Peterson, 2003

27
25 *** Blue Ruin Sport 200m

Climbs a great wall with an inspiring seam. Two awesome pitches, two nice ones and two easy chossy ones. Take 16 draws. Starts 30m right of Burgermiester, up a gully, below a left facing corner. It is possible to traverse left at belay 3 to escape, but you will need 3 bolt brackets.

  1. 40m (22) Layback corner. 12 ubolts

  2. 40m (24) Follow amazing seam to belay on right. Crux is at low roof.

  3. 30m (21) Follow seam onto large ledge.

  4. 30m (18) Easy choss, out left and back right to hanging belay.

  5. 45m (23) Up sustained wall trending right. Very crimpy!

  6. 10m (10) Up easy ground past a UB to ledge.

FA: Mike Law, Vanessa Peterson & Monique Foristier, 2007

28
20 * Big Trad Thong Trad 200m

Mixed climbing up a prominant crack line and around some huge roofs. Rock is of varying quality, but bolts protect the worst of it, and the spectacular under-roof traverse is on mostly good rock. Take a standard rack plus extra big cams and hexes to fist + size, many slings, 10 brackets.

Start: Start below a steep yellow layback corner (pitch 1 of Blue Ruin) 70m right of the Mirrorball pinnacle.

  1. 45m (18) Up corner to second ring, long slings (or come back and unclip the ring) and easy traverse to right arête and carrots, step around and up layback flake to ledge. R to next corner (BR), R along ledge, up then left to U and carrot belay.

  2. 35m (18) Up corner R of the belay, step R and up corner (BR), step R and up corner past 2 bolts, traverse left at top (BR) to carrot and U belay.

  3. 25m (19) Wander out left and up corner past cams and bolts, then back right past 2 more bolts, continue up rightwards to ledge. 3BB.

  4. 35m (20) Up to ledge (2BRs) then a hard move in the corner past bolts and up to roof and bolts. Massive traverse under 18m roof underclinging thin hand to fist crack. Pull lip and up ramp for 4m to 2U belay. Rope drag is a problem when belaying the second, sling the last few pieces, you might lower down to the lip to belay. Easier to lead than to second. Well protected but gripping.

  5. 35m (18) Up easy ramp and follow wide crack to large roof, 2U belay on lip. Get second to trundle 2nd block if the area below is clear.

  6. 25m (17) Up corner and groove (BR), step left into chimney (BR) and up easily to bolts on ledge on right.

FA: M Law, V Peterson, N Monteith, 2008

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