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Description:© (mikl)

Brilliant face climbing on all pitches. All Ubolts

Start: Start as for 50 Year Itch, 120m right of Yesterday's Groove. Best to leave gear at the col, scramble down and rap down Yesterday's Groove raps

  1. 30m (18) Lots of huge holds up a right trending line to get you warmed up. Belay on 2nd ledge.

  2. 30m (21) Up more fantastic juggy rock to belay on left end of ledge. Move belay 10m right to right end of ledge.

  3. 30m (22) Up brilliant technical wall with some airy exposure to small stance - either belay here on double rings or link into next pitch. 16 draws if you want to link the top two pitchs.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Moss & Mikl, 2010

Location:  

Located in Pierces Pass approx:
Long/Lat: 150.338880,-33.576680

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux desperate hard good brilliant fun nice steep flake feet rest hands

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