- Height: 270m
- Pitches: 8
- Ascents: 471
Use to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay.
Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 ropes (for rapping), 16 draws and a few slings.
To ESCAPE if you've had to retreat- see notes above!
ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap down about 20m R of Mirrorball pinnacle. Set up on Ubolts on wall at head height, 45m almost free rap to small ledge-walk left 6m to next anchor. KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS- TAKE PRUSIKS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM. Then a 45m free rap to the deck. Walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m then (Red rope and BBB sign) scramble up and right to a ledge 15 m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Scramble up and walk right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the desperate boulder problem start. If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far.
PRINT OUT TOPOS ETC AS YOUR PHONE PROBABLY WON'T WORK DOWN THERE!
20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.
20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.
40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.
30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.
40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.
40m (17) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. This pitch can give bad drag, either sling the first 3 bolts to reduce drag or (PRO-TIP) bring second up to belay on second bolt and back up with a hanger on a carrot. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.
40m (18) Up vertical pump and move L to layback move at top. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.
40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Lots of rope drag.
TO WALK OUT after finishing the route: 3 options (marked on topo above):
Walk up the L side of the ridge for 100m to join the footpad heading L back to Bell’s line of road.
down top Mirrorball rap to Lunch Ledge. To get to the top of the rap go up the L side of the ridge for a few meters and then go L around the small gully to go back to cliff edge. Go west along the cliff edge to a small cairn above a short gullly, walk down to rap down Mirrorball to your gear at the lunch ledge (not when it's windy tho, easy to lose a rope).
If it's windy walk north near cliff edge for 200m to gully and down to Lunch Ledge
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: V Peterson & M Law, 2005
Located in Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
|18 ***||★★★ ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 85%
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