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Description:

Use to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay.

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 ropes (for rapping), and a few slings.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap down Mirrorball pinnacle and walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 50m, drop down around the base of Old Skule(clean areteon next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally till you hit an orange buttress. Continue about another 70m and scramble up and right to a ledge 15 m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Scramble up and walk right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the desperate boulder problem start.

If you come to a square 50m corner, orange at the top you’ve gone too far...

  1. 20m 18 Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

  2. 20m 18 right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

  3. 40m 18 Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block ro walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

  4. 30m 8 A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

  5. 40m 8 climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, R to 2RB.

  6. 40m 17 Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Sling the first 3 bolts to reduce drag. Head up wall to big ledge. 2RB.

  7. 20m 17 Up vertical pump to 3BB (need brackets!) on small ledge.

  8. 20m 17 pump up vertical wall and move L to layback move at top. 2RB. The new (2010) Blue Montains Climbing guide describes pithes 7 and 8 together at grade 18. Much more fun this way! 40m of huje ironstone holds! Needs 15 draws.

  9. 40m 13 Up and left onto ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Lots of rope drag.

TO ESCAPE: Walk up the L side of the ridge for 100m to join the footpad heading L back to Bell’s line of road. Or go up the L side of the ridge for a few meters and then go around the small gully to go back to cliff edge. Go along the edge and rap down Mirrorball to your gear at the lunch ledge.

9 pitch route between Mirrorball and Big Nose

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mikl, Vanessa, 2000

  • First Ascent: V Peterson, M Law, 2005

Location:  

Located in Pierces Pass approx:
Long/Lat: 150.338880,-33.576680

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
18 Zorba Parer
18 * Tony Williams
18 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained difficult magic incredible super beautiful fun nice fantastic good brilliant amazing great exciting enjoyable classic awesome fall tricky terrifying exposed committing steep rest interesting epic roof hands technical face easy cruisy jugs traverse

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