- Height: 270m
- Ascents: 185
Use to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay.
Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 ropes (for rapping), and a few slings.
ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap down Mirrorball pinnacle and walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 50m, drop down around the base of Old Skule(clean areteon next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally till you hit an orange buttress. Continue about another 70m and scramble up and right to a ledge 15 m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Scramble up and walk right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the desperate boulder problem start.
If you come to a square 50m corner, orange at the top you’ve gone too far...
20m 18 Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.
20m 18 right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.
40m 18 Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block ro walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.
30m 8 A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.
40m 8 climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, R to 2RB.
40m 17 Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Sling the first 3 bolts to reduce drag. Head up wall to big ledge. 2RB.
20m 17 Up vertical pump to 3BB (need brackets!) on small ledge.
20m 17 pump up vertical wall and move L to layback move at top. 2RB. The new (2010) Blue Montains Climbing guide describes pithes 7 and 8 together at grade 18. Much more fun this way! 40m of huje ironstone holds! Needs 15 draws.
40m 13 Up and left onto ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Lots of rope drag.
TO ESCAPE: Walk up the L side of the ridge for 100m to join the footpad heading L back to Bell’s line of road. Or go up the L side of the ridge for a few meters and then go around the small gully to go back to cliff edge. Go along the edge and rap down Mirrorball to your gear at the lunch ledge.
9 pitch route between Mirrorball and Big Nose
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Mikl & Vanessa, 2000
First Ascent: V Peterson & M Law, 2005
Located in Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area approx:
Route Grade Citations
|18 ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 83%
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