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Description:

10 pitch sport route, access via abseil 15m R of Mirrorball (2 x 45m abseils), walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Bignose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easy variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: mikl law & Ness Peterson Shaz Clarke, 2001

Location:  

Located in Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area approx:
Long/Lat: 150.345702,-33.580625

Route Grade Citations

22 Community registered grade
21 * troy daniel
21 ** ** ACA Route Register
21 ** Blue Mountains Climbing

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 87%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained sandbag hard incredible super beautiful fun rad nice fantastic good amazing great exciting enjoyable classic awesome scary fall steep rest reachy fingers epic contrived roof technical balancy face bad jugs traverse

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