- Height: 93m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 5
Major corner with a waterfall pouring straight over the top! Avoid like the plague after heavy rain or in winter. No trad required, but bring some longer draws to extend runners on pitch 3. This route was bolted and climbed in a day by the drill-masters.
17m (19) Start up Slackbladder to 5th bolt, then traverse left along scrappy break to belay on small ledge. 6 bolts
20m (20) Technical corner to small ledge belay.
40m (23) Continue up sustained orange corner to under roof, then hand traverse wildly right along break past waterfall to join into last 5m arete of pitch 8 of Slackbladder. You might get a little wet if you dawdle on the traverse. 15 bolts
16m (22) Finish up Slackbladder pitch 9 then scramble up gully on the left. 5 bolts
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Located in Yesterday's Groove Area approx:
Route Grade Citations
|19, 20, 23, 22||Community registered grade|
|23 *||★ ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 63%
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