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Description

Features several very worthwhile climbs that are either short, or longer but broken up into short sections separated by good rests. Reached by walking 5 minutes further along the track that passes under the base of Jean Jaures Wall. When you get to the end of the rock platform, head up the slabs, then follow the track across the normally dry stream and up the slope, where you will arrive at the right end of the main Treble Clef wall (under Little Black Duress). Morning shade. The tops of almost all the routes get wet from rain

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Yo Ho Sebastian! Sport 30m

Long juggy climb with overhung start. Start left of waterfall, about 20m left of the main Treble Clef all. Take lots of quickdraws - maybe 12+.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2012

2
21 ** Bob's Your Uncle Sport 12m

Short left facing corner on left end of wall. Lovely rock.

FFA: Martin Pircher, 2011

3

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

4
25 * Tri as you might Sport 18m

middle of the wall. hardest near the start but keeps coming.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

5
26 ** Tryptych Sport 18m

3 parts to this climb to test the all rounder

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

6
28 ** Waterfool Sport 15m

right end of crag on the orange rock

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

7
27 ** Little Black Duress Sport 10m

on the black rock with 3 boulder problems.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

8
22 * Jelly Belly Sport 15m

start 10m right of L.B.D. Up the wall and flake feature to crux dyno. This used to be grade 21 but a key hold snapped off the end so now it's harder.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

9
26 * Bellicose Nose Sport 15m

do the direct start (or not) and then up the blunt arete

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011