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Description

Features several very worthwhile climbs that are either short, or longer but broken up into short sections separated by good rests.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Reached by walking 5 minutes further along the track that passes under the base of Jean Jaurès Wall. When you get to the end of the rock platform, head up the slabs, then follow the track across the normally dry stream and up the slope, where you will arrive at the right end of the main Treble Clef wall (under Little Black Duress). Morning shade.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Long juggy climb with overhung start. Start left of waterfall, about 20m left of the main Treble Clef all. Take lots of quickdraws - maybe 12+.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2012

Short left facing corner on left end of wall. Lovely rock.

FFA: Martin Pircher, 2011

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

Set by lloyd wishart

middle of the wall. hardest near the start but keeps coming.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

3 parts to this climb to test the all rounder

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

right end of crag on the orange rock

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

on the black rock with 3 boulder problems.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

start 10m right of L.B.D. Up the wall and flake feature to crux dyno. This used to be grade 21 but a key hold snapped off the end so now it's harder.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

do the direct start (or not) and then up the blunt arete

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2011

middle of wall past the arête (B.N.)

Set by lloyd wishart

FA: 2015

A hidden gem. Bell. Great climbing on good gear. Take a rack with Cams/ Friends of all sizes, double up for sizes 1,2,3,4 (BD Cams), a couple of larger wires and extender slings are useful. Belay off a small Gum tree.

FA: Ben Sanford & Tom Gilbert, 2017

Activity

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