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Description

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 * Grand Larceny Trad 30m

A good looking line.

Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

2
18 Inter City Blues Trad 25m

Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.

Start: 4m right.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

3
17 * unknown 1 Trad 22m

Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.

4
16 Unknown 2 Sport 20m

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

5
20 ** Unknown 6 Sport 20m
6
12 The Wrong Corner Unknown 25m

FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan & Mike Patterson

7

The left hand route on the high ledge.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy & G Bradbury, 2009

8

Corner to ledge. Left and belay (2.5m). Up wall past bolts and overhang.

Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Smoothy, R.Weigand & P.Colyvan, 1982

9
11 ** Second Thoughts Trad 25m

Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & S.Van der Sluys, 1974

10
18 ** Uncle Amy Sport 25m

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent!

FA: G Short & J Smoothy, 2009

11
19 * Popular Opinion Trad 20m

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start: As for ST. 1m right of secont corner.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Hill & P.Colyvan, 1982

12
21 Nocturnal Sport 20m

FA: Bundy

13

As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal

14
23 Popularity Stakes Trad 15m

Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.

Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 1988

15
22 * Serious Leather Sport 25m

Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.

Start: Wall 4m right.

FA: S Knight & R Weigand, 1982

16
20 *** Deep Freeze Sport 22m, 11

Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

Start: 1.5m right again.

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

17
22 * Weigands Effort Trad 30m

Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!

Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.

FA: R.Weigand & G.Hill, 1982

18
18 * Impotent Narcissus Trad 30m

A fine roof crack on good rock!

Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.

FA: H.Luxford & C.Peisker, 1976

19

Start: Right of IN.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

20
20 Hurly Burly Sport 22m
21
17 Joe the Lion Trad 40m

Dirty crack. Could be good with some gardening.

FA: R Taylor, 1970

22
13 ** Dragons tooth Trad 30m

The obvious wide corner crack

23
18 * Ooops Sport 25m

Line of bolts between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

24

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS

25
17 * Technical Stuff Trad 20m

Nice arete ~10 m right of Dragon's Tooth. Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

26

Line of rings up the hard blank slab

FA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

27
16 Mistral(variation) Unknown 20m
28
16 Krell Unknown 20m
29
19 Unknown Trad 20m

Marked.

Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.

FA: Unknown, 2000

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