A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Wentworths Gully 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218295, -33.555282

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grand Larceny

A good looking line.

Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

13Trad 30m Sam May 1 years ago

Good tricky start, dodge trees, then big easy corner.

Colin Townes 9 years ago

first lead on gear, interesting start

2 Inter City Blues

Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.

Start: 4m right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

18Trad 25m Rod Young

LED with Ant 1982

3 * unknown 1

Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.

17Trad 22m
4 Unknown 2

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

16Sport 20m
5 ** Unknown 6 20Unknown 20m Rod Smith 4 years ago

Hands functioned on this one. Not too desperate. Sport. With Niall.

Niall Doherty 5 years ago

Enjoyable, nothing desperate.

6 The Wrong Corner

FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan, Mike Patterson

12Unknown 25m
7 *** These Electric Sex Pants

The left hand route on the high ledge.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, G Bradbury, 2009

18Sport 25m Boyd Robinson 12 months ago

Nice

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Last Call for Fame and Glory

Corner to ledge. Left and belay (2.5m). Up wall past bolts and overhang.

Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy,R.Weigand,P.Colyvan, 1982

18Trad 25m Boyd Robinson 3 years ago

Its 19 in the guide but soft at that.

Rod Smith 4 years ago

Warm up on a cold day. Sport. WIth Niall.

9 ** Second Thoughts

Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.Van der Sluys, 1974

11Trad 25m Sam May 1 years ago

Good-looking easy corner. Don't knock any debris off the ledge onto your second!

Paul Thomson 2 years ago

Laybacked the easy crack to get to the upper section, rather than using the face holds (or the fi...

10 ** Uncle Amy

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent!

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, 2009

18Sport 25m simon dyer 2 years ago

awesome climb!

Paul Thomson 2 years ago

18 in the new guide. Some really fun moves for the grade.

11 * Popular Opinion

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start: As for ST. 1m right of secont corner.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill,P.Colyvan, 1982

19Trad 20m John Wilson 1 years ago

Great position and good rock.

Nick Clow 1 years ago

Some good moves

12 * Nocturnal

FA: Bundy

21Unknown 20m Boyd Robinson 12 months ago

Nice and soft!

Niall Doherty 4 years ago

Nightmare 2nd clip; too close to the 19; crazy runout at top. Sorry Bundy!

13 Popularity Stakes Direct

As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal

24Sport 20m
14 Popularity Stakes

Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.

Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988

23Trad 15m
15 * Serious Leather

Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.

Start: Wall 4m right.

FA: S Knight, R Weigand, 1982

22Sport 25m John Wilson 1 years ago

The little bit in the middle stumped me!

Nick Clow 1 years ago

great climb. Dirty up high with quite a hard crux for the grade

16 *** Deep Freeze

Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

Start: 1.5m right again.

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

20Sport 22m, 11 Taib 11 months ago

Very nice climb on variety of holds.

John Wilson 1 years ago

Really nice!

17 * Weigands Effort

Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!

Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.

FA: R.Weigand,G.Hill, 1982

22Trad 30m
18 * Impotent Narcissus

A fine roof crack on good rock!

Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.

FA: H.Luxford,C.Peisker, 1976

18Trad 30m Peter Davis 3 years ago

Think it was this one ...

Tony Williams 8 years ago

Not a warm up! Put my back out nearly -old fart!

19 Over Under Upside Down

Start: Right of IN.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

22Trad 30m
20 Hurly Burly 20Unknown 22m Rod Smith 5 years ago

Like trad but on fixed hangers. Burly at the start. Sport. With Niall.

Niall Doherty 5 years ago

Some fragile rock and old style grunty moves! Worth a lash.

21 Unknown

Marked.

Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 ** Second Thoughts Trad 25m
12 The Wrong Corner Unknown 25m
13 * Grand Larceny Trad 30m
16 Unknown 2 Sport 20m
17 * unknown 1 Trad 22m
18 * Impotent Narcissus Trad 30m
Inter City Blues Trad 25m
* Last Call for Fame and Glory Trad 25m
*** These Electric Sex Pants Sport 25m
** Uncle Amy Sport 25m
19 * Popular Opinion Trad 20m
Unknown Trad 20m
20 *** Deep Freeze Sport 22m, 11
Hurly Burly Unknown 22m
** Unknown 6 Unknown 20m
21 * Nocturnal Unknown 20m
22 Over Under Upside Down Trad 30m
* Serious Leather Sport 25m
* Weigands Effort Trad 30m
23 Popularity Stakes Trad 15m
24 Popularity Stakes Direct Sport 20m