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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 150.218295, -33.555282
- Description:© (mjw)
Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (mjw)
The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
A good looking line.
Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.
FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974
Inter City Blues
Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.
Start: 4m right.
FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982
Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.
FA: G Short,P Mort,J Smoothey
Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.
FA: J Short, P Mort
The Wrong Corner
FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan, Mike Patterson
Marked. to the right of Krell
Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|12||The Wrong Corner||25m|
|Inter City Blues||25m|