A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Wentworths Gully 29 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218295, -33.555282

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach:© (mjw)

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grand Larceny

A good looking line.

Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

13 Trad 30m
2 Inter City Blues

Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.

Start: 4m right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

18 Trad 25m
3 * unknown 1

Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.

17 Trad 22m
4 Unknown 2

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

16 Sport 20m
5 ** Unknown 6 20 Sport 20m
6 The Wrong Corner

FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan, Mike Patterson

12 Unknown 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** These Electric Sex Pants

The left hand route on the high ledge.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, G Bradbury, 2009

18 Sport 25m
8 * Last Call for Fame and Glory

Corner to ledge. Left and belay (2.5m). Up wall past bolts and overhang.

Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy,R.Weigand,P.Colyvan, 1982

18 Sport 25m
9 ** Second Thoughts

Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.Van der Sluys, 1974

11 Trad 25m
10 ** Uncle Amy

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent!

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, 2009

18 Sport 25m
11 * Popular Opinion

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start: As for ST. 1m right of secont corner.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill,P.Colyvan, 1982

19 Trad 20m
12 Nocturnal

FA: Bundy

21 Sport 20m
13 Popularity Stakes Direct

As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal

24 Sport 20m
14 Popularity Stakes

Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.

Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988

23 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Serious Leather

Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.

Start: Wall 4m right.

FA: S Knight, R Weigand, 1982

22 Sport 25m
16 *** Deep Freeze

Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

Start: 1.5m right again.

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

20 Sport 22m, 11
17 * Weigands Effort

Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!

Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.

FA: R.Weigand,G.Hill, 1982

22 Trad 30m
18 * Impotent Narcissus

A fine roof crack on good rock!

Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.

FA: H.Luxford,C.Peisker, 1976

18 Trad 30m
19 Over Under Upside Down

Start: Right of IN.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

22 Trad 30m
20 Hurly Burly 20 Sport 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Joe the Lion

Dirty crack. Could be good with some gardening.

FA: R Taylor, 1970

17 Trad 40m
22 ** Dragons tooth

The obvious wide corner crack

13 Trad 30m
23 * Ooops

Line of bolts between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

18 Sport 25m
24 * Technical Stuff (direct start)

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS

19 Sport 20m
25 * Technical Stuff

Nice arete ~10 m right of Dragon's Tooth. Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

17 Trad 20m
26 Hermaphrodite Hamster

Line of rings up the hard blank slab

FA: K Allen, C Coghill, 2009

25 Sport 20m
27 Mistral(variation) 16 Unknown 20m
28 Krell 16 Unknown 20m
29 Unknown


Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19 Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 ** Second Thoughts Trad 25m
12 The Wrong Corner Unknown 25m
13 ** Dragons tooth Trad 30m
* Grand Larceny Trad 30m
16 Krell Unknown 20m
Mistral(variation) Unknown 20m
Unknown 2 Sport 20m
17 Joe the Lion Trad 40m
* Technical Stuff Trad 20m
* unknown 1 Trad 22m
18 * Impotent Narcissus Trad 30m
Inter City Blues Trad 25m
* Last Call for Fame and Glory Sport 25m
* Ooops Sport 25m
** These Electric Sex Pants Sport 25m
** Uncle Amy Sport 25m
19 * Popular Opinion Trad 20m
* Technical Stuff (direct start) Sport 20m
Unknown Trad 20m
20 *** Deep Freeze Sport 22m, 11
Hurly Burly Sport 22m
** Unknown 6 Sport 20m
21 Nocturnal Sport 20m
22 Over Under Upside Down Trad 30m
* Serious Leather Sport 25m
* Weigands Effort Trad 30m
23 Popularity Stakes Trad 15m
24 Popularity Stakes Direct Sport 20m
25 Hermaphrodite Hamster Sport 20m