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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 150.218295, -33.555282
- Description:© (mjw)
Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (mjw)
The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
A good looking line.
Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.
FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974
Inter City Blues
Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.
Start: 4m right.
FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982
Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.
Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.
The Wrong Corner
FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan, Mike Patterson
These Electric Sex Pants
The left hand route on the high ledge.
FA: G Short, J Smoothy, G Bradbury, 2009
Last Call for Fame and Glory
Corner to ledge. Left and belay (2.5m). Up wall past bolts and overhang.
Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.
FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy,R.Weigand,P.Colyvan, 1982
Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.
FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.Van der Sluys, 1974
Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent!
FA: G Short, J Smoothy, 2009
A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P
Start: As for ST. 1m right of secont corner.
FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill,P.Colyvan, 1982
Popularity Stakes Direct
As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal
Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.
Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.
FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988
Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.
Start: Wall 4m right.
FA: S Knight, R Weigand, 1982
Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!
Start: 1.5m right again.
FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980
Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!
Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.
FA: R.Weigand,G.Hill, 1982
A fine roof crack on good rock!
Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.
FA: H.Luxford,C.Peisker, 1976
Over Under Upside Down
Start: Right of IN.
FA: G.Bradbury, 1983
Joe the Lion
Dirty crack. Could be good with some gardening.
FA: R Taylor, 1970
The obvious wide corner crack
Line of bolts between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.
FA: G Short P Mort, 2008
Technical Stuff (direct start)
Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS
Nice arete ~10 m right of Dragon's Tooth. Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.
Line of rings up the hard blank slab
FA: K Allen, C Coghill, 2009
Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.
FA: Unknown, 2000
|12||The Wrong Corner||25m|
|17||Joe the Lion||40m|
|Inter City Blues||25m|
|Last Call for Fame and Glory||25m|
|These Electric Sex Pants||25m|
|Technical Stuff (direct start)||20m|
|22||Over Under Upside Down||30m|
|24||Popularity Stakes Direct||20m|