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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

At the base of the descent rungs, same side of the creek. Climbs listed from right to left (facing cliff) as you head left from the rungs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the base of the descent rungs. Can't miss this one.

FA: Martin Pircher, 2009

Just left of Jingle Bells. A few thin moves once you get past half way.

FA: megan turnbull, 2015

Shared 1st bolt with TT then straight up the oranage wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

Start at tree, then left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Head left and up. Hard move at 4th bolt. Then nice big moves to top.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

Right of the leaning left facing corner. This is the harder right hand start. Sandy and Snappy !

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2009

Nicer and easier start to BE

FA: Dr Chris, 2009

The obvious trad corner crack (a few metres left of Bell End in case you miss it).

Up corner to below roof, build a nest of small gear then head right to arête, around it and up to ledge. Gear here is not the best but up and over to the left is better. Up to below next rooflet then right and up to anchors.

Cams, C3's, wires.

Big span needed on this one...

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2007

The first route at Bell Supercrag! Up the open corner for 2 bolts then head rightish. Reachy and committing moves. Classic.

FA: Lloyd, 2006

Up steep corner for 2 bolts, then follow the left line of bolts thru the open corner.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top

FFA: Steve G, 2014

Start up the flake, and up to tricky headwall. Good !!

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

Start as per SD. Pull on to wall and tricky traverse left under the roof (long draws help), turn the lip and on to the face. Follow the seam, then easy flake and jugs to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

Yet another roof climb from the house of Wishart. Hard climbing through the roof to the right of the tree rewards you with a somewhat relaxing paddle up the short headwall

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

Through thuggy roof and onto the wall. Move hard right (don't continue up the arete) and continue up the nice pumpy wall.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2006

A great and sustained linkup with consistent grade 25 climbing, making it a soft tick. Start up the first 3 bolts of Paint God, clip a new 4th bolt and do a hardish move to join Games Without Frontiers just in time for its crux. Then step left and finish up Apple Pie.

FFA: 2007

Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse.

Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall.

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

Hardish, give yourself 26 for the direct finish

Steep long boulder start to a hanging slab and some easier climbing to a ledge. Sweet, interesting moves from the half ledge to the top. Bolted on my 30th birthday.

Set by Ben JengA, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, 2014

Hard start into crack and then continue to move diagonally up tending rightwards.

FA: Megan Turnbull, 2007

Steep, with a hard start and exciting finish. Start up CZ for a few moves, then head right and up. At third bolt, step into the corner and continue up the face following bolts, using the corner as necessary.

Set by Rob Medlicott, 2015

FA: Rob Medlicott, 2015

Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

Stick clip high first bolt then jump to the good start hold, pull up into the left of the creepy roof eyes and reach through the roof boulder.

Good holds in odd spots finish off this punchy little number

Set by Ben Jenga, 2015

FA: Ben Jenga, 2015

Start as for Does My Bum Look Big On This? then at the lip climb up and right via a hard pocket boulder on the stonker head wall. I promise that I didn't chip that pocket, 100% natural.

Set by Ben Jenga, 2015

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2015

Great route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, then some of the best rock at bell for the slick headwall. Fixed draws in the roof make it an easy clean.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2007

Diabolical moves through the roof at the start, then easier climbing on great rock

FA: Steve Grkovic, 2012

Bouldery fun start to a nice head wall climb.

Set by Wade Stewart, 2015

FA: Wade Stewart, 2015

Right of 'Rhubarb Crumble'. Streno start

FA: Jason Lammers, 2015

Undercut start onto slightly overhanging wall past mantle trending left to anchors. Some prefer to stick clip the second bolt.

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

Starts 1m L of Rhubarb Crumble. A couple of sharp holds down the bottom and a great reachy crux up top. Finish at RC anchors.

Set by Jason Lammers

FA: Ben Lane, 2012

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

This is a great little climb with some very cool holds, especially early on. Right of Jigger Jeff; solid start and interesting moves. Moves out right and up.

Traverse rightwards on slab to ledge, hand traverse left then up steep jugs. A lot of people do the slab traverse and lower off the last ring on the slab, about 21

FA: Lloyd Wishart, 2006

Up JJ to fixed biner on the lip of the ledge. (someone has stolen the biner)

Tricky steep corner flakes with a great finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Left of Belayers Root with a couple of moves towards the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2015

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