Middle Rocks Mostly Trad climbing72 routes in sector
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There are a few classics hidden in the choss, particularly on 'Hurricane Cracks' wall. Other than that, Middle Rocks is the dirty, broken and vegetated region filling the gap between the North and South buttresses. The area has a well deserved reputation for worthless routes ranging from the mediocre to the appalling.©
'Hurricane Cracks' wall is best approach from the top. For other areas, the chief access is down the track to the 'North Buttress'. From the main fireplace walk up to the lookout and walk left (west) along the cliff top for about 40 metres, where the track heads back down right in a small, scrambly gully and continues to the 'North Buttress'. The first significant feature is 'Bile', a wide, jagged crack with a small roof on the right of the track. From here leave the track and double back down and left for 'Lower Tier', or up and right for 'Descent Track' climbs.©
Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks
The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.
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