Start eight metres right of 'Bile' at the right-hand clean strip. Place some wires from the walk down track then scramble down a few metres and boulder out the start. Continue up the wall above.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

Quite good climbing starting at the block three metres right of 'Bile'. Onto the block and up the wall above passing a horizontal break, and keeping out of 'Bile'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Alan Wilkie, Paul Tatersall, 1982

The obvious steep, jagged crack, which often seeps green liquid.

1. 22 metres - Up the crack, with a difficult move to surmount the roof. Continue up the wide crack above. Scramble up to beneath a wall split by two left trending cracks.
2. 13 metres - Move onto the ledge and then up the cracks.

FA: David Shirra, Bill Wilson, 1970

FFA: Bill Wilson, Dick Hain, 1973

A fun little route which finishes at the lookout. Previously top-roped by every man and his dog. Start on the big ledge 10 metres left of the top pitch of 'Bile', under a bulging wall. Up a short slab, reach up right and pull around the bulge to the flake, and up the poorly protected wall to the top.

FA: Paul Daniel, Phil Georgeff, 1986

Start at the flake at the right end of the wall. Up the desperate flake then up the wall past a bolt, during the long and epic voyage to the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Geoff Robertson, 1982

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

FA: Richard Watts, Mike Law-Smith, 1983

An obvious, marked corner with a bulging right wall, when walking down left from 'Bile'. The name says it all.

1. 20 metres - Up the short corner, follow the ramp leftwards to a vertical corner.

2. 12 metres - Climb the corner crack to a ledge.

3. 20 metres - Walk right along the ledge for about five metres and then follow a weakness to a tree belay.

4. 12 metres - Traverse left around the nose, and finish up the crack.

FA: Neil Anderson, Peter Aitchison, 1969

A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right.

FA: Mike Todd, Tony Wood, 1969

The direct finish!

Harder and slightly more direct. Start after pitch two of 'Random Route'.

1. 20 metres - Move up and left onto a ledge, then up the corner to a belay at some blocks.

2. 12 metres - Move left and up the short yellow wall and then finish as for Random Route.

FA: Ian Lewis, Lincoln Hall, 1974

Start about four metres left of the second pitch of 'Random Route' at an obvious corner. Up the corner past a bolt and continue up to a short crack. Move left to a second bolt and up the water-streaked wall to an overhang and thread runner. Pull onto the ledge and traverse left to belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Joe Lynch, 1987

A steep finish which is a considerable improvement on the original. Instead of traversing left below the overhang, continue straight up past a fixed wire and two bolts. Move left and up the arete after the second bolt.

FA: David Jenkins, Simon Carter, 1990

Mirage

A good companion route to 'Morning Thunder'. The belay shimmers 10 metres over the horizon. Start three metres right of 'Random Route' in a corner to the right of a loose column. Up the blocky corner, then more difficult moves up the wall above following the incipient cracks. Move right at the top (or harder, straight up) and then easy moves up the slab.

FA: John Smart, 1982

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, Ken Luck, 1987

A mediocre traverse. Start five metres left of 'Pelican Punch'.

1. 20 metres - Climb the crack, moving right to a block belay.

2. 24 metres - Move down to the right, then traverse across a steep lichenous wall. Climb a slab and crack on the right to belay on 'Singularity'.

3. 36 metres - Climb a slab on the right to a ledge and continue right beneath the overhang to finish on a ramp. Walk off right into 'Cocker's Gully'.

FA: John Hoskins, Tony Wood, 1970

The prominent crack line on the wall left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the wide flake crack then a ramp to a diagonal line which takes you to a ledge on 'Hurricane Cracks'.

FA: Phil Cullen, 1970

The thin wall with two bolts left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. A finish with two bolts was added by Phil Georgeff.

FA: Tallis Didcott, Wes Smith, 1990

Hurricane Cracks

Popular, with an excellent second pitch. Start at a short slab eight metres right of 'Eavesdropper'.

1. 35 metres - Up the slab and corner (crux) to a ledge. Climb a dirty wall and a ramp trending left to the huge bushy ledge.

2. 20 metres - A fine wall. Ascends the flaky crack in the centre of the wall. It is awkward to start but good holds then appear.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Neil Anderson, 1968

Uninspiring and dirty in appearance, but the climbing isn't too bad. Start 12 metres to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks'.

1. 30 metres - Up the crack and slab. Continue up the off-width corner, moving right at half height and belay beneath the overhang.

2. 22 metres - Climb a corner and the narrow exposed chimney.

FA: Peter Aitchison, John Price, 1968

Diva

Great climbing and position. Start one metre right of 'Beau Temps'. Clip the first bolt on 'Beau Temps', move up and right across the flake to a stance on the arete (#4 Friend). Up the arete past two bolts and a peg.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1986

Beau Temps

An excellent climb on a spectacular wall. Start at the right hand side of the ledge. Climb past three bolts to a horizontal break, move right and up to another bolt. Follow the thin crack (crux) through the overlap, then go for the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Dave Sargent, Rob Topler, 1984

Two Minute Hate

Another outstanding sustained wall. A hard start three metres left of 'Beau Temps'. Climb up to a bolt then move right and up to a short crack. Continue up the wall moving left at the top to belay on the same ledge as 'Morning Thunder'.

FA: Joe Lynch, Mike Peck, 1986

Morning Thunder

Brilliant. It takes the obvious groove/crack to the right of the top pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the crack for a few metres then move right into the thin V-alcove. Up the groove/crack above, either moving left near the top or pushing straight through.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ray Lassman, Peter Mills, Peter Morris, 1979

Start on the brushed wall four metres left of the top pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up past the peg and then directly to the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Mike Law-Smith, 1983

Worthless. Start as for 'Cyclone Chimney'. Climb the right edge of the chimney via some incipient cracks, kicking off the odd loose block as you go.

FA: Ed Garnett, Richard Watts, 1983

The obvious chimney at the left edge of the Hurricane Cracks wall. Climb the chimney to a roof at 12 metres. Exit on the left using a tree and finish up the crack in the wall above.

FA: Ian Lewis, Peter Morris, Dick Curtis, Ray Lassman, 1974

The thin brushed wall right of 'Singularity' with four bolts. A dirty finish leads to a bolt belay on a mossy ledge. Rap off.

FA: Mike Peck, 1989

Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge.

FA: Phil Cullen, Peter Mills, 1970

Another moss and dirt special. Start at an obvious corner crack 20 metres to the right of and below 'Singularity'. The first pitch is worthwhile.

1. 35 metres - Up a corner for seven metres and exit left up a thin crack, over a bulge and continue up to a large ledge and then move left to a flake pinnacle.

2. 28 metres - Up the pinnacle and wall, before moving left to belay beneath an overhanging chimney.

3. 12 metres - Climb to a tree, then grovel desperately up the gross thrutch chimney.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Tony Wood, 1968

Very dirty. The crack three metres to the right of 'Dratsab'. Climb the crack to a ledge, up left to another crack and then leftwards up a diagonal crack. Done in two pitches.

FA: Peter Mills, Lincoln Hall, 1974

Start (marked) two metres right of 'Bluetongue' in a niche. Up the open corner, right then back left up a sloping ramp and corner to a ledge. Up the V-split cracks to finish. Done in two pitches.

FA: Tony Wood, Graham Horrocks, 1967

The obvious brushed line left of 'Derision'. A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing past two bolts. Follow the brushed line left to a third bolt and up past this on flakes. Scramble up the choss to belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

The dirty crack 30 metres right of 'Felix'. Climb the corner crack, scramble up the choss, then step right into a crack. Originally two pitches.

FA: Graham Still, Tony Wood, 1967

The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.

1. 15 metres - Up the chimney and filth, onto the left arete and follow this to join 'Derision'.

2. 35 metres - Up 'Derision' and then up the left-hand of two cracks. Climb the crack behind the tree then diagonally right.

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

More choss. The obvious chimney two metres right of 'Flying Tortoise'.

1. 25 metres - Up the chimneys and then the vegetated ramp and wall to a ledge.

2. 20 metres - Down the ledge, traverse left to crack. Up the cracks and corner.

FA: Gary Scott, Simon Parker, 1975

"Horrible and harder than 17 for a human being." - Chris Larque. The obvious corner crack and chimney at the bottom of 'Cocker's Gully' (50 metres right of 'Flying Tortoise').

1. 20 metres - Up the crack and chimney and around the overhang.

2. 30 metres - Scramble up a short wall, then left up a split rock.

FA: Bryden Allen, Ray Lassman, 1971

Another poxy gully route. Start four metres right of 'The Bleeder'. Up the buttress to a platform, into the gully, then right and over the boulder. Up to a large ledge and finish up the crack on the left.

FA: Tony Wood, John Hoskins, 1971

Start at the gully right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Climb the groove in the right wall.

FA: Bill Wilson, C. Claridge, 1975

FA: Unknown,

Start beneath the clean line five metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. A bouldery start leads to a crack. Up this, through the bulge, and up the wall above.

FA: John Stone, Bill Begg, 1979

Between 'Fleabag' and 'Tea Bag' with one bolt and RP placements.

FA: Ed Garnett, Noel Ward, 1996

Fleabag

White fleapowder has cleaned up the originally friable holds and dirt - quite popular and well worthwhile. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts about three metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Take some RPs and wires.

FA: Dave McGregor, Mike Peck, Simon Carter, 1985

The garbage gully 20 metres below and right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Walk up the gully with a bit of chimneying at the top for variety.

FA: John Hoskins, C. Douglas, 1970

No Bolts! The thin crack and flake just right of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Getting to the first protection is somewhat perilous.

FA: Joe Lynch, Mike Peck, 1985

Candy Samples

Technical and fingery climbing on a deceptive wall. Takes the brushed waterstreak 10 metres right of 'Scumbag'. Up the flake to a bolt. Climb past this and a couple of wire placements to a second bolt and the crux. Struggle up this into the easy groove and up to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Joe Lynch (yo-yo), 1986

FFA: Steve Mayers, Scott Camps, 1986

Mudshark

Fairly sustained with a hard finish up into the groove. Start about four metres right of 'Candy Samples' at the incipient corner. Thin moves up the slab to the flake then continue up the wall past three bolts into the easy groove. Walk up this to the top and a tree belay.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch, Mike Peck, 1986

The sharp vertical crack with a small roof at half height.

FA: Mike Law, 1974

The prominent sweeping crack four metres left of Paranoid. Start left of the crack and climb to the cave. Gymnastically out then continue traversing right.

FA: Joe Friend (self belay), 1973

The deep cleft 20 metres left of 'Bile' (and above the 'Paranoid' boulder). The only difficulty is surmounting the dirt and chockstones.

1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney passing the chockstone on the left. Step left then up a large flake to a platform on the right.

2. 26 metres - Climb the scrub above, occasionally moving back onto rock.

FA: J Langford, Tony Wood (alt.), 1969

1. 24 metres - climb the chimney, move left and up to the roof, left under this and up three metres to belay.

2. 40 metres - Up right and into the gully which is followed to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, F. Muller, R. Carolane, 1975

The obvious dogleg crack six metres left of 'Hangover'.

FA: David Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

More of a bushwalk than a climb. Start at a short crack 20 metres left of 'Vinegar Stroke'.

1. 20 metres - Up the crack then walk right to an easy angled crack and climb this to a tree.

2. 10 metres - Traverse right around the boulder then move left up a tight groove.

3. 15 metres - Up the crack and chimney on the right to a ledge.

4. 25 metres - Easy walking for eight metres then up a slab to finish near the lookout.

FA: John Hoskins, Tony Wood (alt.), 1969

A considerable improvement on the original.

4b. 30 metres - Walk left for 10 metres along a ledge. Climb the wall until able to move left into a corner then up this to a ledge. 5b. 6 metres - Up either the chimney or crack above.

FA: Tony Wood, R. McIntosh, 1970

Start 15 metres left of 'Recompense' at a short corner.

1. 25 metres - Up the corner, right to a boulder and climb the crack.

2. 15 metres - Crux. Climb the wall, traverse right then up to a cave belay.

3. 30 metres - Climb the corners to the right (as for 'Recompense Variant Finish')

FA: Peter Mills, Lincoln Hall (var.), 1975

Apparitions of Film Star

This and the following climbs can be accessed by continuing past 'Plutarch' to where the track descends steeply beneath an orange wall. Turn right and scramble uphill until you reach a left facing black corner with an orange wall on the right.

Thin and technical bridging straight up the obvious corner.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Matt Dunstan, 1979

Originally done with a large cairn (pyramid) and stick to avoid the start, as well as a rest on the third bolt. Start five metres right of Apparitions of a Film Star, below the steep orange wall. The first two bolts are badly positioned. Climb past the first bolt with minor difficulty, then cruise to the top.

FFA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

FA: Gordon Poultney, David Graham, 1987

Originally called Tranquility, but Phil decided this wasn't his style. Start at a crack four metres left of 'Apparitions of a Film Star'. Onto the flake pinnacle then up the crack.

FA: Phil Cullen, Mick Lithgow, 1979

The Equaliser

The obvious line on the well hidden wall about 20 metres above the top of 'Apparitions of a Film Star' (the start is marked). Up the flake-formed crack then traverse right to a short curving crack which leads to a mantle and slab to finish.

FA: Peter Mills, John Smart, 1981