Middle Rocks Mostly trad climbing72 routes in cliff
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Middle Rocks is the dirty, broken and vegetated region filling the gap between the North and South buttresses. The area has a well deserved reputation for worthless routes ranging from the mediocre to the appalling. However there are a few classics hidden in the choss, particularly on 'Hurricane Cracks' wall.©
The chief access is down the track to the 'North Buttress'. From the main fireplace walk up to the lookout and walk left (west) along the cliff top for about 40 metres, where the track heads back down right in a small, scrambly gully and continues to the 'North Buttress'. The first significant feature is 'Bile', the obvious wide jagged crack with a small roof. From here leave the track and turn down and left to 'Random Route', etc or up and right. The 'Hurricane Cracks' wall is best approach from the top.©
Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks
The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.