North Buttress All trad climbing42 routes in sector
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For most routes it is best to walk off, however there are also two rap points.
The first is at the top of Hermes - 60 metres to ground.
The second starts at the top of Yellow Brick Road and abseils down The Prow - 35m, 35m, 25m, 25m. Alternatively, from the top rap 60m down and left to the base of Yellow Brick Road alternate start or the start of Jet Arete.©
Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks
The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.
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30 metres - Scramble up to the base of the chimney, move left to the prominent ledge and walk left 20 metres to the three (second 'Hermes' belay).
15 metres - Step down and move left past a tree and exposed rib to an alcove (third 'Indecision' belay).
18 metres - Reverse the third pitch of 'Indecision'; traverse left under the overhang to a cramped ledge.
18 metres - Continue leftwards into a corner and step up onto 'The Prow', belaying at the left end.
24 metres - Leftwards along a ledge and over a water streak to more ledges.
34 metres - Traverse easily leftwards on ledges, tending slightly down, to a large block.
36 metres - More descending traversing until you cross the crack below 'Linear Crack'. Climb the left side of this crack and move left to a broken ledge.
18 metres - Across the slab and move down and around the corner to below the chimney on the second pitch of 'Vent Crack'.
34 metres - Up to the base of the chimney and traverse horizontally over a gap and and around a rib. Descend slightly and continue left to good ledges.
36 metres - From the edge of the ledge, climb a wall for five metres and traverse left and finally up to a good ledge.
35 metres - Along the ledge and diagonally up to below a downwards pointing flake. Left and across a slab to a small ledge and poor belay.
22 metres - The top of the fifth pitch of 'Denethor'; up the easy slab to a large, bushy shelf.
FA: Peter Aitchison, Tony Wood (Var.), 1969
Not worth the effort. Start at a wide crack uphill (right) from 'Little Hermes'.
15 metres - Bridge past the off-width and follow the crack up left. Walk right to belay.
25 metres - Up the wide V-groove (horrible) then step left and up the corner as for 'Little Hermes Left Hand Variant'.
FA: John Stone, John 'Chaz' Wood, Theo Hooy, 1979
Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.
32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).
18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.
FA: Tony Wood, I. Raine, 1968
An alternative and slightly harder variation from the ledge on the second pitch. Instead of the rib, climb the leftwards slanting groove to the left.
FA: Tony Wood, G. Still, 1969