Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

The South Buttress is shorter than some of the other areas at Booroomba, but packs a lot of punch nonetheless with a number of classic climbs. It rivals the North Buttress for popularity.

Approach

*Warning - The tracks marked in the ACT guide have changed following the bushfires.

From the top campsite, follow the track left (west). The track splits on a few occasions but trend right, keeping the high point on your right and follow the track down a wide gully with obvious water washouts. Chossy boulders will be close on your right. The track will wrap back around the cliff line with 'Integral Crack' giving it away that you're on the right path.

Descent Notes

If you don't want to walk off, there are rap stations at the top of the following climbs:

  • Dangermouse - 35m to ground, or 25m to ledge then scramble off in the direction of the approach track. Serves Marmalade through to 'No Beans for Bonzo'
  • Equanimity - 45m.
  • African Walking Tree - 30m. Serves Roy's Crack through to In Daze of Old
  • Modern Times - 30m. Serves Square Gully through to Animal Magnetism
  • Jack's Crack - 30m. Serves Jack's Crack through to 'Lazaro's Staircase', with a short down-scramble
  • Cold Cuts - 15m. Serves several short climbs in the vicinity.
  • Vomit - 30m. Serves Gutz through to 'Feats Don't Fail Me Now'.
©

Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Euryproctus Trad 10m

At the bottom of the descent track is a small roof split by a hand crack. Resist the temptation to jump on this climb just because it is the first one you see walking down to the south buttress; this route us responsible for putting more people off crack climbing than any other! If you must, climb to the roof and up on the crack above. Strenuous.

FA: Nick Taylor, Chris Larque, 1974

2
12 Big Flake Trad 15m

Eight metres to the left of Euryproctus is a large flake leaning against the cliff. An awkward move to start, then easily to the top of the flake. Swing left into the corner and up the crack.

FA: Tony Wood, Graham Horrocks, A. Wadsley, 1967

3
20 * The Eiger Direct Trad 15m

Start beneath the curving flake three metres right of running crack. Up the wall and flake then lunge right into a groove. Alternatively go straight up the wall from the top of the flake.

FA: John Stone, Lincoln Hall, 1979

4
12 Running Crack Trad 12m

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of big flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

FA: Peter Aitchison, John Price, 1967

6
11 Marmalade Trad 44m

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

  1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.
  2. Left over ledges then up the obvious slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

FA: John Price, Peter Aitchison, 1967

7
22 No Holds Barred Trad 20m

Takes a steeper and harder line right of A Little Dab'll Do Ya. Start at the tree and climb straight up past a crack and right to a bolt; move left and up to the sling belay below Dangermouse.

FA: Keith Bell, Paul Edwards, 1997

8
21 * A Little Dab'll Do Ya Mixed 23m, 1

Start 3m right of Integral Crack. Up past incipient cracks to a nest of protection just right of integral, then up to a bolt. Slab up to the break and traverse right along it. Belay below Dangermouse.

FA: John Smart, Gordon Brysland, 1982

9
23 Dangermouse Sport 15m

Sharp arete left of the top pitch of Marmalade with four or five bolts. Rap station at the top.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

FFA: Unknown banana benders, 1989

10
23 The Naked Chef Mixed 45m, 7

A derivative route cooked up by Jamie and Oliver that combines a direct start to A Little Dab'll Do Ya with a continuation up the headwall to the right of Integral (six bolts plus gear).

Start 2m right of Integral. Up past a bolt to join ALDDY at the gear placements right of Integral. Follow ALDDY past another bolt and up the slab above. Follow the line of least resistance and most gear to the right and then back left to the first bolt on the headwall. Up past three more bolts.

First ascent done with supplementary gear in Integral to make it to the headwall - another bolt now removes the need for this.

The headwall can also be climbed independently by starting from the base of Dangermouse and traversing left to the line of bolts.

FA: Oliver Story, Jamie Valdivia, 2011

11
20 *** Integral Crack Trad 48m

One of the absolute classics. Considered by many to be the best line at Booroomba, noting that much of the climbing is actually face climbing rather than pure crack. Excellent natural protection. Start eight metres left of Marmalade at the slabby crack. Take lots of wires and some medium sized cams to belay. There is a rap station off to the right, above Dangermouse.

FA: Peter Cocker, Peter Aitchison, 1969

12
22 ** No Beans for Bonzo Mixed 45m, 6

Originally an un-bolted climb, which caused some controversy when the climb was retro-bolted! An unlikely line up the sustained wall three metres left of Integral Crack. Straight up the wall following the line of least resistance. Originally protected using Integral Crack, it now goes on the bolts - with a couple of finger cams adding extra protection.

FA: John Smart, Gordon Brysland, Andrew Collins, 1981

13
25 *** Equanimity Sport 40m, 16

A fine addition between No Beans and Roy's Crack. Sustained desperation. Bring your best rubber and lots of draws. There is an anchor station at the top. Double ropes are required for rap.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2011

14
14 Roy's Crack Trad 50m

When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity.

FA: Tony Wood, Roy Hyndman (alt), 1966

15
24 ** Ruffles Mixed 35m, 4

Good sustained climbing with a reachy crux. Start as for Moral Turpitude. Go up to the overlap, pull through into the crack and traverse right and up to the first bolt. Hard moves past this and the second bolt on enhanced holds, then up past two more bolts. Finish up the top corner of Moral Turpitude.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1986

16
23 *** Moral Turpitude Mixed 45m, 2

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start at the crack two metres left of Roy's Crack.

  1. 30 metres - Up the thin crack to a roof, then left to a break just before the arete. Move up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

  2. 15 metres - Up the corner crack to finish.

FA: John Smart, 1979

17
24 Don't You Know I'm Loco Sport 35m, 10

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the right-hand side. Up the vertical face for five metres. A hard move to pull over onto the slab, up the slab then vertical wall with sloping ramp. A tricky move to exit the face onto the top of the slab above. Head left up the slab to finish at the same anchor as African Walking Tree. 30m rap to ground.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2010

18
21 *** African Walking Tree Mixed 30m, 2

An absolute classic and possibly the best at the grade at Booroomba. A steep start up the right wall of Square Gully, opposite Jack of Diamonds. Climb the wall past a bolt (crux) and onto the slab. Follow the ramp and keep moving left into a corner system. Up to a double bolt belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Richard Watts, 1983

19
20 In Daze of Old Trad 20m

Takes a thin corner system high on the right wall of Square Gully. Start opposite Modern Times. Teeter across the slab to a series of flakes and a corner. Follow this, trending left towards the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Richard Watts, 1983

20
8 Square Gully Trad 50m

A 'horrible subterranean grovel suitable only for troglodytes and masochists'. Scramble up the bed of the gully until confronted by a chimney.

  1. 10 metres - Squirm up the chimney and over chockstones to a tree stump.
  2. 20 metres - Scramble up the gully until it again becomes a chimney. Ascend the chimney and belay in the "bowels of the earth" six metres back.
  3. 20 metres - Move out left above the chockstones and scramble for 12 metres up the gully or ridge on the right. 3a. 15 metres - Variant finish. From "the bowels of the earth" chimney up and exit by a small hole in the roof.

FA: Gordon Horrocks, Tony Wood, A Wadsley, 1967

21
18 Gentlemen of Nerve Trad 10m

Quite good, complete with overhead protection and escape jugs. This is the ramp/corner at the extreme right-hand end of the left wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard, 1983

22
20 Cruel, Cruel Love Trad 12m

Quite good if you like loose blocks and slapstick humour. Start at the corner two metres left of Gentlemen of Nerve. Up the corner then right through the blocky overhang to the top.

FA: Matk Colyvan, Tim Chapman, 1983

23
21 * Modern Times Mixed 15m, 4

Nice wall climbing. Start one metre left of Cruel, Cruel Love. Up the wall past the remains of two bolts to the left hand end of the roof, then step around the arete and make some easier moves up to the top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Tim Chapman, 1983

24

Up wall past four bolts as for Modern Times to overlap / roof. Clip a bolt on the lip then blast up the headwall on jugs. Double rings to belay and rap.

FA: Damien Javanovic, 2010

25
21 Hold your tongue Mixed 15m, 3

Start as for Modern Times, at the edge of the boulder above the belay. Clip the first bolt on Modern Times. Step left past a second bolt, then up the vague open-book corner past some gear. Up the blunt arete past another bolt then more easily to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, Damien Javanovic, 2010

26
22 Tender Loving Care Trad 10m

Start at the dark hole beneath the tree stump in Square Gully. Crank out left along the jugs and slip, slide and heel hook up the crack.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Richard Watts, 1983

27
21 Jack of Diamonds Trad 35m

A bit loose and poorly protected. Start below the small corner midway along the left wall of Square Gully. Up the thin corner to an easy crack on the front of the buttress. Follow this to a big ledge, then scramble off.

FA: Ray Lassman, John Smart, 1977

28

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the left (North) side. Up the very-open book corner past 4 bolts, staying out of the darker rock of Jack of Diamonds. Pull over onto easier ground and up right to belay as for Peter Pan. Gear required above the fourth bolt. 30m rap into gully from a flat-topped boulder near the head of the gully.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2010

29
15 * Peter Pan Trad 48m

A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.

  1. 11 metres - Climb the crack to a ledge next to a large block leaning against the face.
  2. 37 metres - Up to the top of the block (large sling) and step onto the face - awkward for shorties - climb up for a few moves and then right to a thin crack. Up this to the top and what was a tree belay but now requires a topout.

FA: Peter Cocker, Peter Sands, 1966

30

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

FA: Peter Cocker, Peter Sands, 1966

31
14 The Bra Strap Trad 190m

A "worthless and contrived girdle which follows the line of least resistance off the ground". Starts up Peter Pan and traverses the South Buttress from right to left finishing up Matrix. Apparently ties a lot of good stuff together.

FA: Bob Watt, John Hoskins, 1970

32
24 Razor Sharp Mixed 10m, 1

A reachy little boulder problem on sharp holds. Start four metres left of and down from Peter Pan. Boulder up to and past the bolt to a thin crack. Up this and cruise to the top via Peter Pan or Confessions of a Stripper.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

33

Nice moves but contrived. Start from the first belay of Peter Pan under a faint corner and a bolt. Up to the bolt, make a move right, then straight up to a horizontal break. Straight up the steep slab from here (keep out of Peter Pan!), stopping once more to place some protection. A good alternative is to move left into Purple Haze at the break.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

34

See description above.

35
7 Rise and Fall Trad 30m

The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.

  1. 18 metres - Climb the left crack to the large ledge on the left.
  2. 12 metres - Move left across the ledge between the face and the large detached block and climb down the other side to the bottom of Jack's Crack.

FA: Jack O'Halloran, Peter Aitchison, 1966

36
19 * Purple Haze Trad 40m

Only a couple of hard moves, but they make the climb worthwhile. Gary Scott did the first section in 1977 but avoided the crux by traversing into Peter Pan along the horizontal break. Start midway along Rise and Fall where a small odd-shaped pinnacle allows access right onto the arete. Step off the pinnacle onto jugs and move right around the arete into a dyke-crack system. Up this and the wall above to the cracks at the top of Peter Pan.

FA: Peter Mills, Mick Lithgow, 1978

37
22 ** Alligator Wine Mixed 25m, 4

Well protected and reasonably steep. Start just right of the big block and small spike at the top of Rise and Fall. Climb up the wall (without using the spike) past two bolts. Up the ramp to a third bolt, then move left slightly and up to some runners. Continue up the steep wall on good holds past another bolt, pull onto the slab and wander up to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Bill Begg, 1986

The following four climbs are on the broken wall and blocks below 'Rise and Fall'.

38
13 Claim to Fame Trad 10m

Believed to have been done in the dark ages, but no one wrote it up. Start left of Rise and Fall at a poxy looking wall below and slightly right of a bush. Climb the wall, then the flake just right of the bush. Belay at the Purple Haze pinnacle.

FA: Geoff Kennett, Dak Coutts, 1982

39
24 Love Action Trad 10m

Looks gross. Start at the off-width left of Rise and Fall. Up this and the shallow groove above the small roof.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1983

40
23 Nirvana Mixed 10m, 1

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Richard Watts, 1983

41
16 He'Il Never Learn Trad 10m

The poxy crack and chimney two metres left of Nirvana.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1983

42
26 * Static Cling Mixed 30m, 4

Tackles the steep orange wall starting at a small tree five metres right of Earthbound Misfit. Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

FA: Simon Carter, 1990

43
23 Earthbound Misfit Trad 25m

Another good steep wall. Start just right of Surface to Air, using a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Mike Peck, 1988

FFA: Gordon "Goldfinger" Poultney, 1988

44
20 Surface to Air Mixed 25m, 1

Worryingly loose. Marked start halfway up Jack's Crack. Follow the ramps up and right, eventually passing a bolt on Static Cling, then traverse back left to a ledge and step right past a balanced flake. Stop worrying, then go straight to the top.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, 1978

45
22 Animal Magnetism Trad 25m

So named because of Crushed's penchant for kangaroos (and vice versa). The obvious line left of Surface to Air; protection is dubious in places. Start as for Surface to Air. Climb Jack's Crack for a few moves until able to step back right into the line. Up this, with hard moves at the start, to a thin crack below a sloping ledge and onto the final ramp.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Karl Seeuwen, 1982

46
9 Jack's Crack Trad 30m

This is the easy angled, slanting crack 15 metres left of Rise and Fall. Scramble up a tree to start, walk up to another tree then up the crack.

FA: Jack O'Halloran, Peter Aitchison, 1966

47
7 Little Jack's Trad 30m

Start 10 metres below and just to the left of Jack's Crack. A pathetic rising traverse left across a slab, then up a short corner. Scramble to the top as for the second pitch of Overhang Corner.

FA: Unknown

48
16 Blood Lust Trad 26m

Start 10 metres right of Overhang Corner. Climb the crack to a good ledge. Move left and up the crack for four metres, through the bushes to a large block and up to a tree to finish.

FA: Simon Parker, Mike Preece, Tony McGarn, 1974

49
24 Flutterballs Trad 20m

Originally a worthless aid climb called Rurp Crack, now a 'worthless free climb'. It was freed by John Smart with a bridge move against the tree and graded 21 but on the second ascent it was found to be 24 without the tree. Start at the thin crack three metres left of Blood Lust. Extreme start and hard moves to overcome the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Scott, 1975

FFA: John Smart, 1976

50

Another obscure route. Start at the thin corner eight metres right of Overhang Corner. Up the thin corner and over the blocks at the top.

FA: Simon Parker & Gary Scott, 1977

51
14 Overhang Corner Trad 32m

The first pitch is quite good, but the second is rubbish. Luckily you can just do P1 and rap down from the chain at the top of Cold Cuts. Start (crux) in the corner ten metres right of Aitchison's Needle.

  1. 12 metres - Climb the corner crack to a huge ledge.

  2. 20 metres - Traverse right then up to a tree. Scramble to the top.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Tony Wood, 1966

52
22 Indecent Exposure Trad 25m

Traverses left under the prominent overhang. Originally aided (16M3). Start at the top of the first pitch of Overhang Corner. Climb up to the roof. The crackless roof section is bypassed by climbing back down the vertical crack and traversing left along an obvious weakness to about halfway, then climbing back up to the roof. A tricky end follows, then up to a belay on a bushy ledge.

FA: Neil Anderson, Stas Swierczkowski, 1971

FFA: John Smart, 1978

53

From the ledge at the top of Overhang Corner, clmb up the orange crack and wall to the roof. Traverse left as for the original.

FA: Joe Lynch, Mike Peck, 1985

54
21 Winter Retreat Mixed 15m, 1

Start just left of Overhang Corner. Up the wall past one bolt, then more easily up the arete and a short wall to finish.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

55
22 Cold Cuts Mixed 12m, 2

The slightly overhung wall with two bolts, opposite Aitchison's Needle. A hard bouldery start if you're short.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, Phil Georgeff, 1987

56
21 Green Gully Trad 12m

Shorter and slightly less appealing than its Scottish namesake. Up the vegetated line about three metres left of Cold Cuts.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, 1987

57
20 Unusual Weather Trad 10m

Up Green Gully for a few metres, then traverse left (crux) and up.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Dominic Monypenny, 1988

58

Booroomba's first climb. The prominent pinnacle of rock standing a short distance out from the main face. It is climbed on its left edge as seen looking out from the main cliff.

FA: Peter Aitchison, 1966

59
22 Short Flame Trad 7m

A 'totally worthless addition'. The arete with a bolt on Aitchison's Needle, opposite the ordinary route; at last report, the bolt was falling out.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Richard Watts, 1983

60
16 * Carezza Trad 38m

A pleasant pitch of jamming spoiled by too many ledges. The left-facing corner crack with a bush at its base, eight metres left of Aitchison's Needle. Climb up this to a large ledge and continue up to the roof. Diagonally left to join Possum and move right and up to the huge ledge. Finish up Possum of Carezzissima.

FA: David 'Nipper' Shirra, Bill Wilson., 1970

61
15 Carezza Variant Trad 10m

An alternate finish that is less contrived than the original. From the pillar at the start of the roof pull right up the flake and mossy wall above to the Possum ledge.

FA: Peter Mills, 1977

62

Exposed with an exciting finish. Climb up the third pitch of Possum, then traverse left for five metres past some dubious blocks and up the steepening ramp of blocks. The finish over the top is awkward and can be avoided by a short, bracing hand traverse left.

FA: Bob Watt, John Hoskins, 1970

63
18 * Fall Guy Trad 15m

Jug hauling up the 'vast expanse of rock' between Carezza and Possum. Start on the ledge a few metres above the ground. A bouldery start through the overlap, then more easily up the unprotected wall to a thin crack. Up this to the Pseudopossum ledge.

FA: John Stone, 1980

64
13 ** Possum Trad 50m

Short pitches, but packs a lot of climbing in that space. The first pitch involves some harder-than-13 moves to get off the deck, then fairly easily upwards and left until you get to a belay before the traverse. The traverse pitch provides some classic moves and a bit of fun for the second - make sure you place your gear well for those following! - heads right to a big grassy ledge (take your pick for belay) Third pitch many take the alternate version which goes more direct and at a harder grade. Alternatively, there's a few harder-than-13 moves to get up and over a flake and then easily up and away to finish off.

FA: John Price, Tony Wood, Peter Aitchison, 1967

65
11 Pseudopossum Trad 26m

An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.

  1. 16 metres - Right along the ledge from the belay then back left up a ramp to join the second pitch of Possum at the end of the traverse; up to the big ledge.
  2. 10 metres - Walk up the slab and corner behind the trees.

FA: Unknown

66
20 Wallflower Trad 15m

A good find which takes you to the top of the first pitch of Possum. Start at the crack between Functor and Possum. Climb the crack and wall above.

FA: Matt Madin, Noel Ward, Phil Georgeff, 1985

67
18 * Sipple Trad 20m

A strenuous and committing route up the headwall between Possum and Functor. In a good position and the obvious continuation to Fall Guy. From the Possum ledge, traverse left under the obvious diagonal overlap for about five metres to where it is split by a vertical crack. Up this to the top.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, 1980

68
24 * Kilowatt Mixed 30m, 4

The steep orange wall with four bolts above the Possum traverse. Hard moves past the third bolt up to the fourth lead to the flake on Functor. Traverse right and finish up Sipple. Originally climbed with a rest on the top bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1985

FFA: Chris Plant and mate, 1986

69
22 Functor Trad 45m

An impressive, but unfashionably wide line up the slightly overhanging wall above Possum, originally 18M3. The first pitch was originally climbed as a variant start to Possum by Dave Shirra and Bill Wilson in October 1970. Start at the corner eight metres left of Possum.

  1. 15 metres - Up the crack and the blocks to the Possum belay.
  2. 20 metres - Up the off-width crack and chimney to a horizontal crack. Traverse right and up the crack as for Sipple.

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

FFA: John Smart, 1978

70
25 M0 Teenage Wasteland Aid 30m, 4

Contrived, but the well spaced bolts produce photogenic plummets. From the first bolt on Kilowatt, move up left past another bolt and up Functor for four metres (#3 Friend). At the next bolt move around left onto the headwall and traverse four metres left to another bolt (M0). Straight up the headwall to finish up the overhanging S-shaped crack. The bolted line up the headwall is a George Fieg project.

FA: Tony Barten, 1986

71

The wide crack three metres left of Functor; it overhangs 20 metres up giving an exposed finish.

  1. 16 metres - Climb the crack, move to the right of the large flake and belay in an alcove. An unnecessary bolt replaces the original piton below the flake.
  2. 14 metres - Up the back of the alcove and delicately to the top of the blocks. Left then over a block and up the corner to Hortensia.
  3. 20 metres - The second pitch of Hortensia.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Lazarro Bonazzi, 1969

72

Start just left of the original. Straight up the crack to the alcove.

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

73
23 * Cakes and Ale Sport 20m, 5

You could be at Arapiles for this overhung climb, which was quite controversial because of its blatantly chipped holds and four bolts. Start two metres left of Lazarro's Direct. Follow the bolts (and chalk if there's any there). Pull over the roof and up the wall to belay on the first ledge of Hortensia.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1985

74
AU 23 The Valerie Plame Affair Sport 20m, 5

The bolts just to the left of Cakes and Ale. Shares anchors with Cakes and Ale.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

75
19 Gutz Direct Start Trad 6m

The steep, wide crack in line with Gutz, below Hortensia.

FA: John Fantini

76

Involves little new climbing and it hasn't exactly been overwhelmed with repeats. Start as for Gutz, Hortensia etc.

  1. 25 metres - Walk along the ledge and follow the slabby groove up and right to a small ledge on the arete. Move up to a large flake and traverse right onto the arete. Up this to the roof.
  2. 20 metres - Traverse right to finish up Sipple.

FA: Matthew Larkin, Glenn Jones, 1986

77

From the large flake continue straight up the bulge with a bolt on the left.

FA: Matt Madin, 1987

78
13 Hortensia Trad 40m

A popular and varied climb with an awkward chimney at the top. Start on the ledge about 12 metres up and left from Lazarro's Staircase.

  1. 20 metres - Easily right along a ledge, up the steep crack to another ledge and belay at the top of the corner crack on a sloping ledge.
  2. 20 metres - Up the slab and then desperately up the chimney past a flake.

FA: Tony Wood, K. Sanderson, 1968

79
15 Gutz Trad 40m

The line between Hortensia and Matrix. Start as for Hortensia. Pull onto the next ledge to climb a crack and blocks to a small stance. Continue up towards the steep crack above and where it bulges step right onto the wall. Traverse right and finish up a tight chimney.

FA: Nick Gallimore, Noel Beyon, 1971

80
17 * Gutz Direct Finish Trad 10m

Better than the original pike-out. Instead of traversing right, continue up the crack above.

FA: Chris Larque, A. George, John Fantini, 1974

81
14 Matrix Trad 40m

Start as for Hortensia.

  1. 25 metres - Pull onto the next ledge, then up the left-hand crack to a small stance on Gutz. Continue leftwards up to the prominent curving corner; the exit is slightly awkward.
  2. 15 metres - Wander on up as you will.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Neil Anderson, 1968

82
25 * New Presence Mixed 30m, 1

Climbs the right side of the Dreamweaver arete. Start as for Matrix. Climb up the flake then up the wall past a fixed wire and bolt. Move left to the "Dreamweaver jug", about seven metres above the bolt, and finish up the arete.

FA: Peter Weber, Mike Meyers, 1982

83
21 * Dreamweaver Trad 30m

The arete between Matrix and Vomit, now without a flake making it even more serious. Great climbing with some protection (spend time placing it). Start at the short corner directly beneath the arete, up this and the thin line just left of the arete to mid-height. Move back onto the arete and follow it to the top. (the original start traversed left from Matrix)

FA: John Smart, Ray Lassman, 1978

84
23 * Beast of Burden Mixed 30m, 4

Originally a bold and direct wall with good ankle-breaking potential. The obvious white water streak between Vomit and Dreamweaver. The route was retrobolted by Mike Law-Smith in 1990 (four bolts) and is now very popular. A bouldery start three metres right of Vomit leads to a horizontal break (#4 Friend), then straight through the overhang above. The lowest bolt may need replacing.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Guy de Lacey, 1982

85
17 ** Vomit Trad 30m

Good hand jamming. The steep corner crack six metres left of Matrix with a bulge to finish. There is a bolt belay up and back from the top.

FA: Rick White, Ian 'Ptortoise' Paterson, 1971

86

Lovely moves through the roof, but watch out for the spike!! Up the thin corner just left of Vomit, through the triangular roof and up the crack above.

FA: John Smart, 1978