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Description

The Southern most cliff face of the South Buttress, up to 50m high with a variety of grades and styles.

Approach

*Warning - The tracks marked in the ACT guide have changed following the bushfires.

From the top campsite, follow the track left (west). The track splits on a few occasions but trend right, keeping the high point on your right and follow the track down a wide gully with obvious water washouts. Chossy boulders will be close on your right. The track will wrap back around the cliff line with 'Integral Crack' giving it away that you're on the right path.

Descent notes

If you don't want to walk off, there are rap stations at the top of the following climbs:

  • Dangermouse - 35m to ground, or 25m to ledge then scramble off in the direction of the approach track. Serves Marmalade through to 'No Beans for Bonzo'
  • Equanimity - 45m.
  • African Walking Tree - 30m. Serves Roy's Crack through to In Daze of Old

Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the bottom of the descent track is a small roof split by a hand crack. Resist the temptation to jump on this climb just because it is the first one you see walking down to the south buttress; this route is responsible for putting more people off crack climbing than any other! If you must join the hall of fame, climb to the roof and up into the crack above. Strenuous.

FA: Nick Taylor & Chris Larque, 1974

Eight metres to the left of Euryproctus is a large flake leaning against the cliff. An awkward move to start, then easily to the top of the flake. Swing left into the corner and up the crack.

FA: Tony Wood, Graham Horrocks & A. Wadsley, 1967

Start beneath the curving flake three metres right of Running Crack. Up the wall and flake then lunge right into a groove. Alternatively go straight up the wall from the top of the flake.

FA: John Stone & Lincoln Hall, 1979

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of Big Flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

FA: Peter Aitchison & John Price, 1967

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

  1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

  2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

FA: John Price & Peter Aitchison, 1967

Takes a steeper and harder line right of A Little Dab'll Do Ya. Start at the tree and climb straight up past a crack and right to a bolt; move left and up to the sling belay below Dangermouse.

FA: Keith Bell & Paul Edwards, 1997

Start three metres right of Integral Crack. Up past incipient cracks to a nest of protection just right of Integral (shared with The Naked Chef), then up to a bolt. Slab up to the break and traverse right along it. Belay below Dangermouse.

FA: John Smart & Gordon Brysland, 1982

Sharp arete left of the top pitch of Marmalade with four or five bolts. Rap station at the top.

FA: Mike Peck & Craig Kentwell, 1987

FFA: Unknown banana benders, 1989

A derivative route cooked up by Jamie and Oliver that combines a direct start to A Little Dab'll Do Ya with a continuation up the headwall to the right of Integral (six bolts plus gear).

Start 2m right of Integral. Up past a bolt to join ALDDY at the gear placements right of Integral. Follow ALDDY past another bolt and up the slab above. Follow the line of least resistance and most gear to the right and then back left to the first bolt on the headwall. Up past three more bolts.

First ascent done with supplementary gear in Integral to make it to the headwall - another bolt now removes the need for this.

The headwall can also be climbed independently by starting from the base of Dangermouse and traversing left to the line of bolts.

FA: Oliver Story & Jamie Valdivia, 26 Mar 2011

One of the absolute classics. Considered by many to be the best line at Booroomba, noting that much of the climbing is actually face climbing rather than pure crack. Excellent natural protection. Start eight metres left of Marmalade at the slabby crack. Take lots of wires and some medium sized cams to belay. There is a rap station off to the right, above Dangermouse.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Aitchison, 1969

Originally un-bolted, which caused some controversy when the climb was retroed! An unlikely line up the sustained wall three metres left of Integral Crack. Straight up the wall following the line of least resistance. Originally protected using Integral Crack, it now goes on the bolts - with a couple of finger cams adding extra protection.

FA: John Smart, Gordon Brysland & Andrew Collins, 1981

A fine addition between No Beans and Roy's Crack. Sustained desperation. Bring your best rubber and lots of draws. There is an anchor station at the top. Double ropes are required for rap.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, Jul 2011

When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity.

FA: Tony Wood & Roy Hyndman (alt), 1966

Good sustained climbing with a reachy crux. Start at the thin crack two metres left of Roy's Crack. Straight up to the overlap, pull through into the crack and traverse right and up to the first bolt. Hard moves past this and the second bolt on enhanced holds, then up past two more bolts. Finish as for Moral Turpitude up the corner to the left, or up and right to the 'Equanimity' anchor.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck & John Carlson, 1986

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start as for Ruffles at the thin crack.

  1. 30m - Up the crack to the overlap, then left to a break just before the arete. Up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

  2. 15m - Up the corner crack to finish.

FA: John Smart, 1979

Start just inside the entrance to Square Gully on the right-hand side. Up the vertical face for five metres. A hard move to pull over onto the slab, up the slab then vertical wall with sloping ramp. A tricky move to exit the face onto the top of the slab above. Head left up the slab to finish at the same anchor as African Walking Tree. 30m rap to ground.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, Feb 2010

An absolute classic and possibly the best at the grade at Booroomba. A steep start up the right wall of Square Gully, a few metres left of 'Don't You Know I'm Loco'. Climb the wall past two bolts (crux) and onto the slab. Follow the ramp and keep moving left into a corner system. Up to a double bolt belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Richard Watts, 1983

Takes a thin corner system high on the right wall of Square Gully. Start opposite Modern Times. Teeter across the slab to a series of flakes and a corner. Follow this, trending left towards the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Richard Watts, 1983

The layback to the right of Big Flake, with a bolt up above a small boulder roof problem, remains unclimbed.

Activity

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