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Multi-pitch slab climbing is the main attraction here, with some routes adding on a finish up the orange headwall.


Descent Notes

  • There is a rap line starting from the top of the headwall of Nothing Left

    (a) 50-60 metres to Nothing Left belay at base of headwall

    (b) 50 metres to first belay of Closer In/Extreme Youth/Channel 19

    (c) 50m to ground

  • There is a rap point at the top of the first pitch of Outer Limit - 35m+

  • There is a rap line down Smash Palace - two 50m raps to ground.


Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

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Grade Route
19 * Rubbishman Trad 75m 2

A reasonable slab route wandering up a weakness on the right side of 'The Central Slabs'. Begin at the prominent leftwards diagonal a few metres left of the 'Place Without a Postcard' flake.

  1. 40 metres - Follow the diagonal weakness to a scooped recess four metres left of the water streak ('Nothing Left'). Climb the short wall above and pull onto a small ledge below an incipient corner. Traverse well right to a big ledge and tree belay.

  2. 35 metres - Back left along the ledge for a few metres and up the slab (four metres right of the water streak) for five metres to a curving seam and runner. Step down and move left and diagonally up across the water streak. More easily up then left along weaknesses to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Finish up 'Closer In' or 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Peter Morris, Peter Mills & Nick Clark, 1979


Continues on with the third pitch of "Outer Limit"

23 ** Anything So Nothing Trad 110m 4

Contrived in places, nevertheless a great climb blasting directly up the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

  1. 30 metres (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. Belay at the tree on the right.

  2. 30 metres (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to belay on the 'Prow', next to the crux on 'The Girdle Traverse'.

  3. 30 metres (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to a large flat ledge.

  4. 20 metres (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and tree belay. Finish as you will.

FA: Geoff Hughes (#1 & 2), 1982

23 *** Nothing Left Mixed 140m 3, 6

A bolted direct version of 'Anything So Nothing', following the water streak all the way. A few wingers already! Take wires and small camming devices (up to 2.5).

  1. 47 metres (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 Friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

  2. 50 metres (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing' to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge and tree belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt belay at the ledge.

  3. 38 metres (21) - Off block left of tree and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past bolt and fixed wire to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 Friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to triple bolt belay at back of large ledge.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt; 1 & 2), 1996

23 ** Chanel 19 Mixed 65m 2, 1

Another extreme and superb slab climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'.

  1. 30 metres (19) - Up the crack to a horizontal break, then straight through an obvious bowl to join the first pitch of 'Rubbishman'. Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', to a very dodgy hanging belay at the horizontal break, just right of the incipient corner.

  2. 35 metres (23 R/X) - Up the little corner to a bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the unprotected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Continue up 'Extreme Youth', 'Closer In' or 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Roark Muhlen & Rob Topfer, 1982

24 * Extreme Youth Mixed 140m 4, 8

A very good multi-pitch slab. The fourth pitch (a later addition) probably still awaits a repeat. Start at a short ramp one metre left of 'Chanel 19'. Pitches 1-3 have more, and better, bolts than in 1982 (thanks Mike!).

  1. 30 metres (24) - Up the short, steepening ramp to a bolt, then straight up to a buldging overlap. Onwards and upwards, trending slightly right to a diagonal break. Left along this to a bolt and wire belay. Combining with the second pitch is recommended (~50 metres - use double ropes).

  2. 30 metres (22) - Move diagonally left along the weakness for a few moves, then climb up the wall. Continue straight up to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. 3a. 40 metres (20) - Step up into a small recess behind the belay, clip a bolt then move diagonally right up the slab. Continue trending right past two bolts to a slight ramp, step back left and pull up onto a stance at the base of an easy corner. Up this, step right, then up the slab to a ledge and double bolt belay. For the original route continue up right to belay at the base of the right-hand headwall. 3b. - Start as above, but from the top of the easy corner trend up left past two bolts towards 'Outer Limit', then rightwards to belay as for 'Nothing Left' at the base of its last pitch.

  3. 35 metres (22) - A later addition. An exciting, spacey lead up the headwall to the right of 'Fiasco' and 'Jetts Sett'. Straight up some dubious rock above the dead tree to a wire placement at 10 metres, then trend left to a doubtful bolt. Straight up from here on opposing layaways for about eight metres, then up the easy leftwards corner system. Note that this pitch has not been retrobolted but left as a monument to the heady run-out days of 1982.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & John Smart, 1982

23 ** Take It All Mixed 60m, 10

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts at the end of 'Extreme Youth' P3a. The climbing starts five metres right of the last pitch of 'Extreme Youth'. Up the crack for two metres, then left and up past about five bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts.

FA: Ken Luck (second anonymous & alias Matt Montgomery), 1982

19 * Further Out Mixed 60m 2, 4

Sustained and poorly protected climbing when done. "Closer In has destroyed Further Out as a sustained and poorly protected climb, putting four bolts in the crux section." - Keith Bell. Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face.

  1. 25 metres - Climb the right side of the pillar, then up over a large flake on the right to a sloping ledge. Leftwards up a steepening ramp (originally aided with a peg), then step left to a large ledge.

2a. 35 metres - Pull onto the slabs behind the belay, trending slightly right past a small bush to reach a narrow ledge at 15 metres. Continue trending rightwards up a vague weakness in the slab to belay at a ledge (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

2b. Alternatively and better, step diagonally right for a few moves from the right hand end of the large ledge, then straight up wall to a sickle shaped ledge/crack (Keith Bell). Finish as for 'Outer Limit' or 'Closer In'.

FA: Bryden Allen (19M0, 1972

FFA: Richard Curtis & Chris Larque (alt.), 1974

23 * Closer In Mixed 150m 4, 7

A popular four pitch route on the Central Slab, starting 30 metrs left of 'Extreme Youth'. Look for the bolts, although the original set has been slightly pruned.

  1. 50 metres (19/22) - Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face. Up the left side of the pillar and then onto the steep wall following bolts. Straight up the overlap (22) or step left and meander back (19). Move right and up past numerous bolts and sickle shaped crack to double bolt belay (shared with 'Rubbishman', 'Extreme Youth' et al.).

  2. 50 metres (20) - Step up and left, up the flake, then trend diagonally up and left past six bolts to a bolt belay at a small scoop.

  3. 25 metres (23) - The easiest line up the steep blocky wall past three bolts, with a hard move to gain the slab. Double bolt belay to the right on the ledge.

  4. 35 metres (19) - Up the corner then right to easy ground (shared with 'Space Wasted').

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Steve Chey & Dave Sargent, 1994

20 * Crimble Cromble Trad 98m 3

Another good climb on 'The Central Slabs'. Start at the pillar as for 'Closer In'.

  1. 30 metres - Climb the left side of the pillar, then move left and up (unprotected crux) to the first belay on 'Further Out'. Climb up left to belay on a ledge below the overlaps.

  2. 20 metres - Up the overlaps and slabs to a scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Space Wasted').

  3. 48 metres - A fine pitch that takes a line up the slab between 'Space Waltz' and the third pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Traverse right to climb the left side of an overlap, then up the steepening grey slab (crux). Climb onto a huge undercut block from the right to find a bolt. Up the slab for 15 metres (crossing 'Closer In' between the bolts) to where it eases, then move right across a lichenous strip. Up the corner to join 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Rick McGregor & Graeme Roxborough, 1977

23 ** Megajules Sport 40m

At the base of the central slabs, left of the pillar of 'Closer In' and right of Space Wasted. After the crux on the initial slab, enjoyable climbing directly up to an anchor.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2005

23 ** Space Wasted Trad 160m 5

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

  1. 20 metres (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

  2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

  3. 50 metres (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

  4. 15 metres (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

  5. 35 metres (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

FFA: Joe Lynch & Peter Darby (alt.), 1984

FA: Richard Watts & Dave Sargent, 1984

18 *** Outer Limit Trad 180m 6

The original route on 'The Central Slabs', a diagonal ascent from left to right. Start 30 metres left of 'Closer In' at a short crack below a ledge.

  1. 35 metres - Ascend the short crack to a bushy ledge. Climb the steep wall above and a crack trending right, then traverse left onto a grey, flaky area (two bolts). Delicately up to a bolt, then up the shallow crack to a ledge (double bolt belay).

  2. 35 metres - Traverse 20 metres right along a ledge system until it peters out, continue around a bulge and follow more ledges to beneath a vertical flake formed crack (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

  3. 42 metres - Up the flake formed crack for 6 metres, then traverse right (well below the first bolt on 'Closer In') and then up and left to a ledge with small gear and a very dubious bolt. Up over ledges, a corner and mossy slab to a ledge and bush (or continue on to the second belay on 'Closer In').

  4. 24 metres - Climb the crack, trending left for about six metres, then traverse left for about 12 metres and up into a V-groove to belay.

  5. 18 metres - Climb the corner and crack above to the left side of the overhanging yellow rock, across the gap and onto a large ledge.

  6. 25 metres - Climb up right for five metres onto a flaky ledge, then up left to another. Continue over a short wall to the top.

FA: & Neil Anderson (var.), 1969

18 Cat Stretch Trad 35m

From the top of the flakes on the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' trend right to a bolt. Continue up the wall to double bolt belay on ledge as for 'Out Limit'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, David Lyons, John Stone & Mike Peck, 1990

18 * Jubilate Trad 100m 4

A good climb but poorly protected and quite serious. It takes a line up the lower slabs right of 'Outer Limit' to finish on the left-hand side. Start as for 'Outer Limit'.

  1. 18 metres - Climb the crack to the ledge and traverse easily right to a large flat ledge.

  2. 25 metres - Climb through the bulge on the left end of the ledge to gain a crack system. Follow this to a ramp above. Move right along the ramp for two metres, then step onto the slab above (just short of a ledge). Left to a bolt then up the slab to a large scoop on the 'Outer Limit' traverse (shared with 'Crimble Cromble' and 'Space Wasted').

  3. 12 metres - Serious. Exit from the scoop on the left and traverse steeply up left to a corner. Belay at the top.

  4. 45 metres - Poorly protected. Leftwards onto a traverse line to within six metres of 'Linear Crack' (just before the bolts on 'Bananas in Pyjamas''), then up and right to an open corner. Belay at the top.

FA: Bryden Allen, Graeme Wurth & John Hoskins (var)., 1971


A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Unknown


A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'.

FA: Unknown


Start at the bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Takes the left-hand line of holds and scoops. Climb up carefully (a marginal 2 or 3 rock provides some protection four metres up) and onto a ramp and up the steep wall above.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

17 Dry Route Trad 25m

Quite pleasant. Starts a few metres left of the fifth pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Up the short wall to the steep orange corner which converges to an arete at the top. Straight up, moving right to a tricky mantle near the top.

FA: Andrew Collins & Phil Cullen, 1980

18 Rooty Hill Trad 25m

A companion climb. Start at a groove a few metres left of 'Dry Route'. Up the groove to an alcove and out through the rooflet. Up the crack and wall above to the top.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ray Lassman & Lincoln Hall, 1978

21 Space Waltz Trad 45m

A serious direct route to the right of the top pitch of 'Jubilate'. Start at the third belay on 'Jubilate'. Move right and up to a bolt, then hard moves up to flakes. An easier but runout section then leads to the belay as for 'Jubilate' and 'Bananas in Pyjamas'.

FA: Rick McGregor & Graeme Roxborough, 1977

The next three climbs are on a group of boulders below 'The Central Slabs'.

14 Mangler Trad 40m 2

Start approximately below 'Further Out' at a leftwards slanting crackline.

  1. 20 metres - Traverse left along the crack to a block, then up the wall and overlap to a tree belay.

  2. 20 metres - Up the crack on the left for six metres, then back right on another and up to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Bill Wilson, 1973

23 Mega Move Marvel Trad 20m

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

22 Fat Like Me Trad 15m

A technical slab problem which was soloed after top-rope inspection. A serious lead. The narrow, cleaned slab about 20 metres left of 'Mangler'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

22 Linear Crack Trad 94m 4

The crack bounding the left end of 'The Big Sweep'. The crack is hard to get to, and not particularly worthwhile anyway. The aid used on the second pitch was freed by Roark Muhlen as part of 'Powder Finger Finish'. Climb the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' or the first and second pitches of 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 35 metres - From the 'Vent Crack' belay, move around the corner on the right and up across a slab to the base of the crack.

  2. 15 metres - Climb the thin cracks (crux) left of the main crack past a tree, to belay where the cracks converge.

  3. 32 metres - Climb the crack to a stance.

  4. 12 metres - Scramble up to finish.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Neil Anderson (alt.), 1969

23 * Powder Finger Finish Trad 100m 3

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit', but the route as described is much better. Start as for 'Only the Good Die Young'.

  1. 40 metres (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the line to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up to a ledge and tree.

  2. 25 metres (22) - Frees the old aid secion of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

  3. 35 metres (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Peter Mills & John Hartlet, 1980

23 *** Smash Palace Trad 90m 3

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position.

  1. 40 metres (23) Climb 'Only the Good Die Young' to the horizontal break, then undercling out right for four metres. Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge.

  2. 15 metres (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the obvious sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to an obvious curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

  3. 35 metres (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back.

FA: Joe Lynch & Mike Peck (Tony Barten #1), 1985

22 *** Only the Good Die Young Trad 100m 4

Brilliant climbing up the steep slabs and impressive headwall left of 'The Central Slabs'. N.B use a small diameter carabiner on the bolt on the top pitch, or else! Start about 10 metres right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 25 metres (19) Move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the obvious huge flake. At the horizontal break pull left around the arete and onto the face. Delicately up to belay on top of the flake.

  2. 20 metres (22) Scary face climbing up to a bolt, then straight up to a horizontal seam. Move right to avoid the scrub near the top. Huge belay ledge.

  3. 18 metres (21) - The headwall. Up the short corner on the left to an undercling, then swing right and up to a small stance. Up the wall to a diagonal leftward flake, and left at the top of this to a hanging belay at a small bush and horizontal break. A spacey belay in a superb position.

  4. 37 metres (22) Climb directly above the belay to another horizontal break, then follow this rightwards. Straight up the slab when it vanishes, past a bolt, then slightly left up a dyke. Blast easily to the top.

FA: Gordon Brysland (led #1, 4), John Smart (led #2 & 3), 1982

21 Prime Evil Trad 85m 2

No bolts, no chips, no fun! A devious and run-out climb taking a line between 'Only the Good Die Young' and 'Vent Crack'. Start just right of 'Vent Crack', five metres up on a small ledge.

  1. 40 metres (21) - Move right and climb a short corner. Continue up the wall to join 'Only the Good Die Young' for a few moves. Move left and up to a ledge. Left along this, then up the steep slab trending right to belay below an orange corner.

  2. 45 metres (18) - Climb the corner and step left onto a ledge. Climb the ramp right to a ledge and up the obvious line of holds on the slab to join 'After the Reiving' at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck & Simon Carter (#1) or Adam Blizzard (#2), 1987

14 Vent Crack Trad 140m 5

Only the first two pitches are worth the effort. It is better to finish up Baryon. Start (marked) below the prominent crack 20 metres left of 'Outer Limit', at the right-hand end of an orange wall.

  1. 15 metres - Climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft to a small ledge.

  2. 22 metres - Climb a crack on the left and the wall above. Left and onto a slab above, trending right to a bushy gully.

  3. 30 metres - Follow the gully easily until blocked by a prominent bulge.

  4. 30 metres - Climb the bulge using a crack and slab on the left, then the ramp.

  5. 34 metres - Climb a prominent nose on the wall left of a scoop, to finish on easy slabs. Basically just a glorified walkoff.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1968

15 Baryon Trad 80m 4

An improvement on the middle sections of 'Vent Crack'. Start from the slab on the second pitch of 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 20 metres - Traverse left and up to an obvious corner, up this to a ledge.

  2. 20 metres - Climb the slab using the huge thin flake and continue over poised blocks and through two bushes (to rejoin 'Vent Crack'). Up a short crack on the left of the bulge to a stance.

  3. 30 metres - Climb the water-smoothed slab to the left of the bulge, crossing right to an obvious weakness and up to a large ledge.

  4. 10 metres - climb the short wall and scramble to the top.

FA: J. Land & Peter Sands (alt.), 1975

15 * After the Reiving Trad 30m

The despoilation hadn't even started! Ascends the prominent buttress above and right from 'Vent Crack'. A nice finish to 'Vent Crack' or 'Baryon'. Start at the end of the third pitch of 'Vent Crack'. Climb the bulge up the wide, slanting crack on the right, then traverse down and right to a ledge. Pleasantly up a groove to the top.

FA: Phil Cullen & Chris Larque, 1977


Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route.