Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Multi-pitch slab climbing is the main attraction here, with some routes adding on a finish up the orange headwall.

©

Descent Notes

  • There is a rap line starting from the top of the headwall of Nothing Left

    (a) 50-60 metres to Nothing Left belay at base of headwall

    (b) 50 metres to first belay of Closer In/Extreme Youth/Channel 19

    (c) 50m to ground

  • There is a rap point at the top of the first pitch of Outer Limit - 35m+

  • There is a rap line down Smash Palace - two 50m raps to ground.

©

Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 * Rubbishman Trad 75m

A reasonable slab route wandering up a weakness on the right side of 'The Central Slabs'. Begin at the prominent leftwards diagonal a few metres left of the 'Danielle' flake.

  1. 40 metres - Follow the diagonal weakness to a scooped recess four metres left of the obvious water streak. Climb the short wall above and pull onto a small ledge below an incipient corner. Traverse well right to a big ledge and tree belay.

  2. 35 metres - Back left along the ledge for a few metres and up the slab (four metres right of the water streak) for five metres to a curving seam and runner. Step down and move left and diagonally up across the water streak. More easily up then left along weaknesses to belay below the third pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Finish up 'Outer Limit' or 'Closer In'.

FA: Peter Morris, Peter Mills, Nick Clark, 1979

2

Finishing for third pitch of 'Outer Limit'.

3
23 ** Anything So Nothing Trad 110m

Contrived in places, nevertheless a great climb blasting directly up the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

  1. 30 metres (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. Belay at the tree on the right.

  2. 30 metres (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to belay on the 'Prow', next to the crux on 'The Girdle Traverse'.

  3. 30 metres (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to a large flat ledge.

  4. 20 metres (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and tree belay. Finish as you will.

FA: Geoff Hughes (#1, 2), 1982

4
23 *** Nothing Left Trad 140m

A recently bolted direct version of 'Anything So Nothing', following the water streak all the way. A few wingers already! Take wires and small camming devices (up to 2.5).

  1. 47 metres (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 Friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

  2. 50 metres (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge at 30 metres. Trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing' to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge and tree belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt belay at the ledge.

  3. 38 metres (21) - Off block left of tree and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past bolt and fixed wire to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 Friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to triple bolt belay at back of large ledge.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt; 1, 2), 1996

5
23 ** Chanel 19 Trad 65m

Another extreme and superb slab climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'.

  1. 30 metres (19) - Up the crack to a horizontal break, then straight through an obvious bowl to join the first pitch of 'Rubbishman'. Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', to a very dodgy hanging belay at the horizontal break, just right of the incipient corner.

  2. 35 metres (23 R/X) - Up the little corner to a bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the unprotected slab to the 'Outer Limit' belay and finish up it.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Rob Topfer, 1982

6
24 * Extreme Youth Trad 140m

A very good multi-pitch slab. The fourth pitch (a later addition) probably still awaits a repeat. Start at a short ramp one metre left of 'Chanel 19'. The climb was recently retrobolted by Mike Law-Smith - see topographic map.

  1. 30 metres (24) - Up the short, steepening ramp to a bolt, then straight up to a bulding overlap. Onwards and upwards, trending slightly right to a diagonal break. Left along this to a bolt and wire belay. Combining with the second pitch is recommended (~50 metres - use double ropes).

  2. 30 metres (22) - Move diagonally left along the weakness for a few moves, then climb up the wall. Continue straight up and belay on the sloping ledge below the third pitch of 'Outer Limit' (double bolt belay). 3a. 40 metres (20) - Step up into a small recess behind the belay, then move diagonally right up the slab. Continue trending right to a slight ramp, step back left and pull up onto a stance at the base of an easy corner. Up this, step right, then up the slab to a ledge. Climb up right to the base of the headwall. 3b. - Start as above, but trend up left towards 'Outer Limit', then rightwards to belay as for 'Anything So Nothing'.

  3. 35 metres (22) - A later addition. An exciting, spacey lead up the headwall to the right of 'Fiasco' and 'Jetts Sett'. Straight up some dubious rock above the dead tree to a wire placement at 10 metres, then trend left to a doubtful bolt. Straight up from here on opposing layaways for about eight metres, then up the easy leftwards corner system. Note that this pitch has not been retrobolted but left as a monument to the heady run-out days of 1982.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, John Smart, 1982

7
23 Take It All Trad 40m

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Start five metres right of the last pitch of 'Extreme Youth'. Up the crack for two metres, then left and up past three bolts. Step right and desperately up the slab past one more bolt.

FA: Ken Luck (second anonymous, alias Matt Montgomery), 1982

8
19 * Further Out Trad 60m

Sustained and poorly protected climbing when done. "Closer In has destroyed Further Out as a sustained and poorly protected climb, putting four bolts in the crux section." - Keith Bell. Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Danielle', where a pillar leans against the face.

  1. 25 metres - Climb the right side of the pillar to a small tree, then up over a large flake on the right to a sloping ledge. Leftwards up a steepening ramp (originally aided with a peg), then step left to a large ledge.

2a. 35 metres - Pull onto the slabs behind the belay, trending slightly right past a small bush to reach a narrow ledge at 15 metres. Continue trending rightwards up a vague weakness in the slab to belay at a ledge.

2b. Alternatively and better, step diagonally right for a few moves from the right hand end of the large ledge, then straight up wall to a sickle shaped ledge/crack (Keith Bell). Finish as for 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Bryden Allen (19M0, 1972

FFA: Richard Curtis, Chris Larque (alt.), 1974

9
23 * Closer In Trad 150m

A popular four pitch route on the Central Slab, starting 30 metrs left of 'Extreme Youth'. Look for the bolts, although the original set has been slightly pruned.

  1. 50 metres (19/22) - Start as for 'Crimble Crombie' and then onto the steep wall following bolts. Straight up the overlap (22) or step left and meander back (19). Move right and up past numerous bolts and sickle shaped crack to double bolt belay of 'Extreme Youth'.

  2. 50 metres (20) - Start up the flake as for 'Outer Limit', then trend diagonally up and left to the third pitch of 'Space Wasted'. Up this past bolts to a wire and bolt belay to the right.

  3. 25 metres (23) - The easiest line up the steep blocky wall past three bolts, with a hard move to gain the slab. Wire and bolt belay to the right on the ledge.

  4. 35 metres (19) - Up the corner then right as for 'Space Wasted'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Steve Chey, Dave Sargent, 1994

10
20 * Crimble Cromble Trad 98m

Another good climb on 'The Central Slabs'. Start three metres left of 'Further Out'.

  1. 30 metres - Climb the left side of the pillar, then move left and up (unprotected crux) to the first belay on 'Further Out'. Climb up left to belay on a ledge below the overlaps.

  2. 20 metres - Up the overlaps and slabs to a scoopy ledge, as for the second pitch of 'Jubilate'.

  3. 48 metres - A fine pitch that takes a line up the slab between 'Space Waltz' and the third pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Traverse right to climb the left side of an overlap, then up the steepening grey slab (crux). Climb onto a huge udnercut block from the right to find a bolt. Up the slab for 15 metres to where it eases, then move right across a lichenous strip. Up the corner to join 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Rick McGregor, Graeme Roxborough, 1977

11
23 ** Megajules Sport 40m

At the base of the central slabs, left of the pillar of Crimble Cromble and right of Space Wasted. After the crux on the initial slab, enjoyable climbing directly up to an anchor.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2005

12
23 ** Space Wasted Trad 160m

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Further Out' on 'The Central Slabs'.

  1. 20 metres (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

  2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (the second belay on 'Jubilate').

  3. 50 metres (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the obvious overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

  4. 15 metres (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

  5. 35 metres (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground.

FFA: Joe Lynch, Peter Darby (alt.), 1984

FA: Richard Watts, Dave Sargent, 1984

13
18 *** Outer Limit Trad 180m

The original route on 'The Central Slabs', a diagonal ascent from left to right. Start 30 metres left of 'Further Out' at a short crack below a ledge.

  1. 35 metres - Ascend the short crack to a bushy ledge. Climb the steep wall above and a crack trending right, then traverse left onto a grey, flaky area. Delicately up to a bolt, then up the shallow crack to a ledge.

  2. 35 metres - Traverse 20 metres right along a ledge system until it peters out, continue around a bulge and follow more ledges to beneath a vertical flake formed crack.

  3. 42 metres - Up the crack for 6 metres, then traverse right and then trend left to a ledge and very dubious bolt. Up over ledges, a corner and slab to a ledge and bush.

  4. 24 metres - Climb the crack, trending left for about six metres, then traverse left for about 12 metres and up into a V-groove to belay.

  5. 18 metres - Climb the corner and crack above to the left side of the overhanging yellow rock, across the gap and onto a large ledge.

  6. 25 metres - Climb up right for five metres onto a flaky ledge, then up left to another. Continue over a short wall to the top.

FA: , Neil Anderson (var.), 1969

14
18 Cat Stretch Trad 35m

From the top of the flakes on the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' trend right to a bolt. Continue up the wall to a ledge

FA: Adam Blizzard, David Lyons, John Stone, Mike Peck, 1990

15
18 * Jubilate Trad 100m

A good climb but poorly protected and quite serious. It takes a line up the lower slabs right of 'Outer Limit' to finish on the left-hand side. Start as for 'Outer Limit'.

  1. 18 metres - Climb the crack to the ledge and traverse easily right to a large flat ledge.

  2. 25 metres - Climb through the bulge on the left end of the ledge to gain a crack system. Follow this to a ramp above. Move right along the ramp for two metres, then step onto the slab above (just short of a ledge). Left to a bolt then up the slab to a large scoop on the 'Outer Limit' traverse.

  3. 12 metres - Serious. Exit from the scoop on the left and traverse steeply up left to a corner. Belay at the top.

  4. 45 metres - Poorly protected. Leftwards onto a traverse line to within six metres of 'Linear Crack', then up and right to an open corner. Belay at the top.

FA: Bryden Allen, Graeme Wurth, John Hoskins (var)., 1971

16

A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Unknown

17

A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'.

FA: Unknown

18

Start about five metres right of the bushy corner at the top of the first pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Takes the left-hand line of holds and scoops. Climb up carefully (a marginal 2 or 3 rock provides some protection four metres up) and onto a ramp and up the steep wall above.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

19
17 Dry Route Trad 25m

Quite pleasant. Starts a few metres left of the fifth pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Up the short wall to the steep orange corner which converges to an arete at the top. Straight up, moving right to a tricky mantle near the top.

FA: Andrew Collins, Phil Cullen, 1980

20
18 Rooty Hill Trad 25m

A companion climb. Start at a groove a few metres left of 'Dry Route'. Up the groove to an alcove and out through the rooflet. Up the crack and wall above to the top.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ray Lassman, Lincoln Hall, 1978

21
21 Space Waltz Trad 45m

A serious direct route to the right of the top pitch of 'Jubilate'. Start at the third belay on 'Jubilate'. Move right and up to a bolt, then hard moves up to flakes. An easier but runout section then leads to the ledge beneath the 'Outer Limit' buttress.

The next three climbs are on a group of boulders below 'The Central Slabs'.

FA: Rick McGregor, Graeme Roxborough, 1977

22
14 Mangler Trad 40m

Start approximately below 'Further Out' at a leftwards slanting crackline.

  1. 20 metres - Traverse left along the crack to a block, then up the wall and overlap to a tree belay.

  2. 20 metres - Up the crack on the left for six metres, then back right on another and up to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Bill Wilson, 1973

23
23 Mega Move Marvel Trad 20m

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

24
22 Fat Like Me Trad 15m

A technical slab problem which was soloed after top-rope inspection. A serious lead. The narrow, cleaned slab about 20 metres left of 'Mangler'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

25
22 Linear Crack Trad 94m

The crack bounding the left end of 'The Big Sweep'. The crack is hard to get to, and not particularly worthwhile anyway. The aid used on the second pitch was freed by Roark Muhlen as part of 'Powder Finger Finish'. Climb the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' or the first and second pitches of 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 35 metres - From the 'Vent Crack' belay, move around the corner on the right and up across a slab to the base of the crack.

  2. 15 metres - Climb the thin cracks (crux) left of the main crack past a tree, to belay where the cracks converge.

  3. 32 metres - Climb the crack to a stance.

  4. 12 metres - Scramble up to finish.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Neil Anderson (alt.), 1969

26
23 * Powder Finger Finish Trad 100m

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit', but the route as described is much better. Start as for 'Only the Good Die Young'.

  1. 40 metres (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the line to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up to a ledge and tree.

  2. 25 metres (22) - Frees the old aid secion of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

  3. 35 metres (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Peter Mills, John Hartlet, 1980

27
23 *** Smash Palace Trad 90m

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position.

  1. 40 metres (23) Climb 'Only the Good Die Young' to the horizontal break, then undercling out right for four metres. Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge.

  2. 15 metres (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the obvious sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to an obvious curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

  3. 35 metres (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back.

FA: Joe Lynch, Mike Peck (Tony Barten #1), 1985

28

Brilliant climbing up the steep slabs and impressive headwall left of 'The Central Slabs'. N.B use a small diameter carabiner on the bolt on the top pitch, or else! Start about 10 metres right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 25 metres (19) Move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the obvious huge flake. At the horizontal break pull left around the arete and onto the face. Delicately up to belay on top of the flake.

  2. 20 metres (22) Scary face climbing up to a bolt, then straight up to a horizontal seam. Move right to avoid the scrub near the top. Huge belay ledge.

  3. 18 metres (21) - The headwall. Up the short corner on the left to an undercling, then swing right and up to a small stance. Up the wall to a diagonal leftward flake, and left at the top of this to a hanging belay at a small bush and horizontal break. A spacey belay in a superb position.

  4. 37 metres (22) Climb directly above the belay to another horizontal break, then follow this rightwards. Straight up the slab when it vanishes, past a bolt, then slightly left up a dyke. Blast easily to the top.

FA: Gordon Brysland (led #1, 4), John Smart (led #2, 3), 1982

29
21 Prime Evil Trad 85m

No bolts, no chips, no fun! A devious and run-out climb taking a line between 'Only the Good Die Young' and 'Vent Crack'. Start just right of 'Vent Crack', five metres up on a small ledge.

  1. 40 metres (21) - Move right and climb a short corner. Continue up the wall to join 'Only the Good Die Young' for a few moves. Move left and up to a ledge. Left along this, then up the steep slab trending right to belay below an orange corner.

  2. 45 metres (18) - Climb the corner and step left onto a ledge. Climb the ramp right to a ledge and up the obvious line of holds on the slab to join 'After the Reiving' at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck and Simon Carter (#1) or Adam Blizzard (#2), 1987

30
14 Vent Crack Trad 140m

Only the first two pitches are worth the effort. It is better to finish up Baryon. Start (marked) below the prominent crack 20 metres left of 'Outer Limit', at the right-hand end of an orange wall.

  1. 15 metres - Climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft to a small ledge.

  2. 22 metres - Climb a crack on the left and the wall above. Left and onto a slab above, trending right to a bushy gully.

  3. 30 metres - Follow the gully easily until blocked by a prominent bulge.

  4. 30 metres - Climb the bulge using a crack and slab on the left, then the ramp.

  5. 34 metres - Climb a prominent nose on the wall left of a scoop, to finish on easy slabs. Basically just a glorified walkoff.

FA: Peter Aitchison, Tony Wood, 1968

31
15 Baryon Trad 80m

An improvement on the middle sections of 'Vent Crack'. Start from the slab on the second pitch of 'Vent Crack'.

  1. 20 metres - Traverse left and up to an obvious corner, up this to a ledge.

  2. 20 metres - Climb the slab using the huge thin flake and continue over poised blocks and through two bushes (to rejoin 'Vent Crack'). Up a short crack on the left of the bulge to a stance.

  3. 30 metres - Climb the water-smoothed slab to the left of the bulge, crossing right to an obvious weakness and up to a large ledge.

  4. 10 metres - climb the short wall and scramble to the top.

FA: J. Land, Peter Sands (alt.), 1975

32
15 * After the Reiving Trad 30m

The despoilation hadn't even started! Ascends the prominent buttress above and right from 'Vent Crack'. A nice finish to 'Vent Crack' or 'Baryon'. Start at the end of the third pitch of 'Vent Crack'. Climb the bulge up the wide, slanting crack on the right, then traverse down and right to a ledge. Pleasantly up a groove to the top.

FA: Phil Cullen, Chris Larque, 1977

33

Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route.