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Outstanding climbing up a powerful line. Start below the obvious fang on the left wall of the chimney six metres left of Big Boris. Originally pitch two was split, and climbed further to the left, but the route as described was done shortly after and is better.

  1. 20 metres - Up (with trepidation!) the crumbly wall to the fang, undercling left and around the lip, then follow the crack upwards to belay two metres right of the 'Indecision' corner.

  2. 35 metres - Up the crack through the overlap, moving right at the horizontal break to the arete. Up knobs then up and left to a large ledge, move up and back right onto the arete and climb a short V-groove swinging right at the top into the short corner at the top of pitch two of 'Big Boris'. Up to belay.

  3. 35 metres - Finish as for 'Big Boris' Pitch 3 - Climb to the top of a huge leaning flake with some trepidation, then step onto the face and continue up scoops to the top of the Fearon Block. Finish as for 'Fearon' Pitch 2, climbing cracks and grooves up more broken rock to finish up a short rib on the right.

Ethic: inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fantini & Chris Larque (alt.), 1978

    Chris Larque, Don Fletcher put up the accepted version in April 1978


Located in North Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 148.993763,-35.555761

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 OZ Rock
19 ** ACT Granite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 86%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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